Strange Idle after TB install
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Staging Lane
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 92
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From: San Francisco, Ca
Strange Idle after TB install What's up everyone, quick question. I just installed a new TB from JAntzer performance. The TB is awesome, but my car is now idling strange. The rpms at idle went from 700 to almost 1000 and when I put the car in neutral it takes a while for the rpms to fall back to idle speed.
First question: Is this normal?
Second: If not, what should I do to fix it?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Anthony
First question: Is this normal?
Second: If not, what should I do to fix it?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Anthony
TECH Addict
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,826
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by sftaws6
What's up everyone, quick question. I just installed a new TB from JAntzer performance. The TB is awesome, but my car is now idling strange. The rpms at idle went from 700 to almost 1000 and when I put the car in neutral it takes a while for the rpms to fall back to idle speed.
First question: Is this normal?
Second: If not, what should I do to fix it?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Anthony
First question: Is this normal?
Second: If not, what should I do to fix it?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Anthony
Is the IAC servo on there your original, or is it
one of dubious parentage, candy-coated? It
might be worth pulling out and checking the
action if simple mechanical things don't pan
out; check the seating face for process crud,
run the motor back & forth to see that the
plunger moves freely, etc.
IAC servo is what controls the "throttle" drop
to idle.
However a vacuum leak (is your TB O-ring in place?)
can also elevate your idle.
You can back out the stop screw (small Allen upside
down) and see if that has to do with anything.
You should be able to check the blade action by
hand, there should be no snag. If it has any bind
loosen up the blade screws slightly and wind it up
& let it snap shut a couple of times, then retighten
(if they haven't been Loctited or staked).
one of dubious parentage, candy-coated? It
might be worth pulling out and checking the
action if simple mechanical things don't pan
out; check the seating face for process crud,
run the motor back & forth to see that the
plunger moves freely, etc.
IAC servo is what controls the "throttle" drop
to idle.
However a vacuum leak (is your TB O-ring in place?)
can also elevate your idle.
You can back out the stop screw (small Allen upside
down) and see if that has to do with anything.
You should be able to check the blade action by
hand, there should be no snag. If it has any bind
loosen up the blade screws slightly and wind it up
& let it snap shut a couple of times, then retighten
(if they haven't been Loctited or staked).
Ok well mine would hang up around 1100 when I first put mine on. IT takes some time for the computer to learn. Just drive it around and give it a few days. If you still have a problem then something needs to be done. Im willing to bet it will go away
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,979
Likes: 3
From: Upstate NY
1) How about asking Jantzer? His customer service is good.
2) DO NOT mess with the screws on the TB!
3) Did you do the "Idle Relearn"?
4) Give the PCM a chance to adjust itself as 01 Red WS6 said.
5) Ask Jantzer.
2) DO NOT mess with the screws on the TB!
3) Did you do the "Idle Relearn"?
4) Give the PCM a chance to adjust itself as 01 Red WS6 said.
5) Ask Jantzer.
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I talked to Jantzer and he said to give it time and if it still acted up he would send me a new blade. I wish I still had the PM that he sent me because it would be good to post up now.
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here is the PM that Scott sent me tis explains why some may have problems
Originally Posted by Jantzer98SS
It's getting a little air past the blade. Try adjusting the throttle stop on the left side down some so it closes the blade a little more at idle. If that doesn't work, I'll send another blade with a smaller hole or with no hole and you can get it right. All cars respond a little different. It probably won't take much.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: state college PA
Originally Posted by Old SStroker
1) How about asking Jantzer? His customer service is good.
2) DO NOT mess with the screws on the TB!
3) Did you do the "Idle Relearn"?
4) Give the PCM a chance to adjust itself as 01 Red WS6 said.
5) Ask Jantzer.
2) DO NOT mess with the screws on the TB!
3) Did you do the "Idle Relearn"?
4) Give the PCM a chance to adjust itself as 01 Red WS6 said.
5) Ask Jantzer.
!LS1 11 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 7,133
Likes: 2
From: Miami
I had a cam-only setup, tuned.
I put on the Jantzer TB and gained 1 mph at the track, but the idle at both hot and cold starts was screwy.
When I swapped heads I had had the car retuned. It's fine now.
Could be a tuning issue.
I put on the Jantzer TB and gained 1 mph at the track, but the idle at both hot and cold starts was screwy.
When I swapped heads I had had the car retuned. It's fine now.
Could be a tuning issue.
Originally Posted by 01 Red WS6
If you do a search you will find some steps to take to do the idle relearn.
Is this how:
1) Reset PCM (unplug battery)
2) Start car and let idle with A/C off to full temp
3) Turn on A/C and let idle 5 minutes
4) Turn the motor off
thanks
TECH Addict
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,826
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Originally Posted by Ferocity02
Can you explain how to do it? I searched and found some stuff, but it doesnt really make sense...
Is this how:
1) Reset PCM (unplug battery)
2) Start car and let idle with A/C off to full temp
3) Turn on A/C and let idle 5 minutes
4) Turn the motor off
thanks
Is this how:
1) Reset PCM (unplug battery)
2) Start car and let idle with A/C off to full temp
3) Turn on A/C and let idle 5 minutes
4) Turn the motor off
thanks
Idle Relearn Procedure:
1. Turn key on but don't start car.
2. Pull PCM BAT and PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment.
3. Wait a few minutes.
4. Turn ignition off.
5. Replace fuses.
When you 1st start it up it will idle and run like ****. Give it time to learn idle. Then take it out for a spin. It make die on you a couple of times if you don't wait long enough before you go drive it.
1. Turn key on but don't start car.
2. Pull PCM BAT and PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment.
3. Wait a few minutes.
4. Turn ignition off.
5. Replace fuses.
When you 1st start it up it will idle and run like ****. Give it time to learn idle. Then take it out for a spin. It make die on you a couple of times if you don't wait long enough before you go drive it.
Not to go off on too much of a tangent but
If you have a Bauer unit, don't bother sending it back. I did and he must have took it out to use it as a paper weight for a day and then sent it back after turning the idle screw out 1/4 turn, claiming "the sticking is fixed". Low and behold, it still sticks from a closed throttle...the blade is hitting the inside in various places...now he claims since it's a second-hand part he is not responsible for shitty craftsmenship. To his credit it is 2-3 years old, but really WTF 
I don't buy that. You are not going to hurt anything playing with the TB idle screw (if that's the screw you're talking about). That's what it's there for! Anyway most ported TBs are not set right since each car is different...I had to unscrew and scew it a few times before I found a good idle.
To answer the original question, the fluctuation is normal, because of the different flow characteristics of a ported unit. The PCM 'learned' it after a few days (I didn't unplug or program anything...), and it's pretty stable now. I did let it idle for quite some time in various modes before I considered it finalized. Don't get me wrong, it still varies a bit when coming to a stop, but settles down after a few moments. That is not going to hurt anything. How much you need to play with the setscrew remains to be seen.
Sorry for the long post, hopefully this helps someone.
Originally Posted by Fastt Gunn
Throttle blade is sticking Im sure.... just like mine did. You'll probably have to send it back to get it fixed.
Originally Posted by Old SStroker
2) DO NOT mess with the screws on the TB!
To answer the original question, the fluctuation is normal, because of the different flow characteristics of a ported unit. The PCM 'learned' it after a few days (I didn't unplug or program anything...), and it's pretty stable now. I did let it idle for quite some time in various modes before I considered it finalized. Don't get me wrong, it still varies a bit when coming to a stop, but settles down after a few moments. That is not going to hurt anything. How much you need to play with the setscrew remains to be seen.
Sorry for the long post, hopefully this helps someone.
