ASP pulley installed -- charging issues
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From: USN, Haze Grey and Underway
ASP pulley installed -- charging issues Recently did a TR224 swap. I also installed an ASP Underdrive pulley.
Car is having charging issues.
Voltage output only 12.8V at the battery using a fluke meter.
Disconnected the ground cable, car died immediately.
SES Light -- P1637 Generator L Circuit
I'm not sure if I have a bad alternator, or if I need to purchase the alternator pulley to go along with the ASP Pulley.
Has anyone else had this problem? Please chime in.
Car is having charging issues.
Voltage output only 12.8V at the battery using a fluke meter.
Disconnected the ground cable, car died immediately.
SES Light -- P1637 Generator L Circuit
I'm not sure if I have a bad alternator, or if I need to purchase the alternator pulley to go along with the ASP Pulley.
Has anyone else had this problem? Please chime in.
Did you get the P1637 only after disconnecting the battery cable or before. I know you could get away with that on old school cars, but with all the electronics on these cars, I don't think I'd be doing that. Your alt output will naturally be a little lower at idle with the ASP pulley. Turn on as many elect. accessories as you can and check the voltage at the battery at around 1500-2000 rpm.
well, way back in highschool. if you disconnect the battery and it dies it's the alternator. now, with all of the widgets on new cars not quite sure if that applys.
btw. this test is not recommended by any manufacture!
btw. this test is not recommended by any manufacture!
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From: USN, Haze Grey and Underway
I got the code once the install was done, and the battery was installed to start the car.
So the ground cable method doesn't prove anything with the newer cars?
I have no clue where to go next..
So the ground cable method doesn't prove anything with the newer cars?
I have no clue where to go next..
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From: Raleigh, NC
I have to keep my idle up when running the A/C on high with my ASP's. As soon as the cooling cans kick on in addition to the blower motor in the car the guage drops to 12 something. I even have the -25% -15% alt set up. This is kind of off subject but are you having knocking problems with your car and ASP pullys?
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From: USN, Haze Grey and Underway
Originally Posted by Cstick
I have to keep my idle up when running the A/C on high with my ASP's. As soon as the cooling cans kick on in addition to the blower motor in the car the guage drops to 12 something. I even have the -25% -15% alt set up. This is kind of off subject but are you having knocking problems with your car and ASP pullys?
I'm having issues when I attempt to take off, I get a bit of knocking. The car seems to be bogging on take-off.
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From: Beamville, VA
Do not disconnect the battery with the engine running. ECM controlled cars don't put up with that. As soon as the PCM senses the voltage drop it will stop spark and fuel. Keep in mind that the battery is the only power source, the alternator simply provides "charging current" that is voltage specific and limited. As you car places a load on the electrical system, it uses battery juice and the alternator is constantly replacing it. Get youself the alternator overdrive pulley and the proper belts and you'll be okay.
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From: USN, Haze Grey and Underway
I FIXED IT:
I'm ashamed to say, it was all my fault. I guess we learn from our mistakes, I definitely won't make this one again. Whenever I solder something in the future. I'm using heat shrink.
Problem: P0200 and P1637 code --
- The car would also kill my new Optima battery every other day.
- Would completely stutter and knock and ping and fall on it's face at take off.
- Sounded like ***
See, what had happened was:
-Be warned: Be extremely careful when you do the !Wire mod. Because of a crappy isolator, 3 of the wires shorted together. Causing the injector 2 fuse to blow in the engine bay power block. Entire passenger side of the engine was without power. It also fried one of my fan control relays. So after getting the wiring taken care of and replacing the fuse and relay.
I'm ashamed to say, it was all my fault. I guess we learn from our mistakes, I definitely won't make this one again. Whenever I solder something in the future. I'm using heat shrink.
Problem: P0200 and P1637 code --
- The car would also kill my new Optima battery every other day.
- Would completely stutter and knock and ping and fall on it's face at take off.
- Sounded like ***
See, what had happened was:
-Be warned: Be extremely careful when you do the !Wire mod. Because of a crappy isolator, 3 of the wires shorted together. Causing the injector 2 fuse to blow in the engine bay power block. Entire passenger side of the engine was without power. It also fried one of my fan control relays. So after getting the wiring taken care of and replacing the fuse and relay.
