Do ported TBs have larger blades?
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
iTrader: (39)
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,321
Likes: 1
From: NW Chicago Subs
Do ported TBs have larger blades? As stated in title. Do porters put in larger blades, or just clean them up, block the holes, and fix the stop. This also may vary by porter. Who does and who doesn't?
Thanks
Thanks
My Jantzer piece uses the same size blade, as I'm sure most others use as well. Most just do as you say...clean them up, fill the holes, and fix the stop.
Last edited by MeentSS02; Sep 28, 2004 at 12:44 PM.
um if you know where you can get a larger blade, i'd love to hear it. that'd be a BITCH. **** up the seal and you're DONE. time for a new tb. or time to spend a hell of a lot of time with some jbweld, a dremel, and the blade trying to fix the seal. thats why its always important to keep track of where that area is, and to leave it alone when porting your own. its a restricted area lol. 
Porting is just smoothing out the passage before the throttle blade. Enlarging the actual bore is called boring. That's the one and only case that'd need a larger blade. I had a company that overbored, ported, polished, shafted, ect. throttle bodies. The factory LS-1 unit can be bored to 78mm max with just a little material added. I actually still have one brand new 78mm unit on a shelf if you're interested ($240).
The 'pro's' know where to stop-right after the vortex. The best/easiest way for a first-timer to port their own unit is to first trace around the blade with a sharpy before dissassembly. This way you'll know where exactly to stop before you ruin the unit.
Let me know if any of you guys plan to try. I've done hundreds of units for many different yrs, makes and models. W/o a milling machine, lathe, or know-how to make the tools required to even make a blade, you at home cannot overbore. But, you can do some porting and maybe even shafting that'll atleast help a little.
The 'pro's' know where to stop-right after the vortex. The best/easiest way for a first-timer to port their own unit is to first trace around the blade with a sharpy before dissassembly. This way you'll know where exactly to stop before you ruin the unit.
Let me know if any of you guys plan to try. I've done hundreds of units for many different yrs, makes and models. W/o a milling machine, lathe, or know-how to make the tools required to even make a blade, you at home cannot overbore. But, you can do some porting and maybe even shafting that'll atleast help a little.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Being that it has a slightly larger blade, it also has a slightly larger bore. That's just how it works...
Never 'knife-edge' a throttle blade. You can ruin the seal, and also cause it to stick shut if closed rapidly.
Never 'knife-edge' a throttle blade. You can ruin the seal, and also cause it to stick shut if closed rapidly.
That's what a port does bud... 
'Smoothing' would be more related to deburing, which isn't really needed with these becasue the casting is already pretty smooth. With these, you remove the vortex, port the new transition, shave down the beginning of the opening, and maybe fill and drill the IAC/PCV opening. Shafting isn't porting, but that's another good way to let in more air @ WOT.
'Smoothing' would be more related to deburing, which isn't really needed with these becasue the casting is already pretty smooth. With these, you remove the vortex, port the new transition, shave down the beginning of the opening, and maybe fill and drill the IAC/PCV opening. Shafting isn't porting, but that's another good way to let in more air @ WOT. Last edited by NoseUpChromeDown; Sep 30, 2004 at 01:17 PM.