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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 10:21 AM
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Default ngk problem

I just got a new set of NGk's and wires, are these pregapped?

My car stumbles when I first get on the gas and just seems all around sluggish, and yes I did the 2 click rule and have checked the wires again and again.
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BoonesZ
I just got a new set of NGk's and wires, are these pregapped?
Even if they are supposed to be you ALWAYS have to check them/gap them before installation, especially on a car as difficult to install them on as an LS1 F-body.
I assume you didn't gap them before putting them in?
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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Ditto on the above comment. Also, sometimes a wire or boot is close to failing, and the act of replacing the plugs is enough to push them over the edge. If you're getting arc-through you can often see it as a blue glow or discharge off the wire or boot when viewed in total darkness. Usually arc-through will happen closest to the plug end, but not always. I put on Taylor Thundervolt wires, and they're built like a brick outhouse, so you might want to do the wires as a matter of course, if the old ones are original.
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Old Dec 18, 2004 | 07:12 AM
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Like mistermike say's check them in the dark you might have a cracked plug too.
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 12:52 PM
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True to all of the above! You might have a bad NGK plug; I have run into this problem before with this NGK plugs.
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Old Dec 19, 2004 | 06:08 PM
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I also had a cracked plug when I swicthed to NGK. My car stumbled and popped. Replaced the cracked plug everything was fine.
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 03:54 AM
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need help on #8 plug, ne suggestions on taking it out and installing newones? just did install today and i have all of them in xcept that one. btw freakin fixed my problem muchas gracias NGKs!!!!!!!!
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 04:36 AM
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I have found the best way to get the #8 is to use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a 1/4 universal and a 1/4-3/8 adapter with a normal size spark plug socket. I also remove my air tube from my headder and push it to the side which allows me to get my arm down in there. Should be able to brake it loose if it is not to tight. And when going back in I put a SMALL dab of anti-seize for the next time makes it even easier. If it is real tight migh be able to use the spark plug socket with the wrench flats to brake it loose. I have never replaced it from below, worse for me with the headers. Just remember to start the plug by hand with the socket and extension, and then tighten down when you can no longer turn it by hand and you know that it is not cross threaed.

With this ratchect and universal set up I have been able to replace all my plugs in about 30-45 min. Cold engine . Still come out with arms all scratched up but thats the fun of working on your own car.

Chris
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by mistermike
Ditto on the above comment. Also, sometimes a wire or boot is close to failing, and the act of replacing the plugs is enough to push them over the edge. If you're getting arc-through you can often see it as a blue glow or discharge off the wire or boot when viewed in total darkness. Usually arc-through will happen closest to the plug end, but not always. I put on Taylor Thundervolt wires, and they're built like a brick outhouse, so you might want to do the wires as a matter of course, if the old ones are original.

Thats the type of wires I just replaced, they were the biggest piece of **** ever.
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 02:10 PM
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alrigth thanks ill try that out
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 04:41 PM
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#8 is easiest to access from the bottom of the car.
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