Prothane motor mount is in!
#21
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Yeah, these are the poly inserts. They reuse the stock clamshell. It's not that bad really. Mine just fell apart, and I used a gasket scraper to get the rest of the rubber mount out.
If you're doing a tubular K-member, for god's sake do your mounts while it's out. You'll thank yourself later.
If you're doing a tubular K-member, for god's sake do your mounts while it's out. You'll thank yourself later.
#22
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Oh hard was the passenger side? Like some of you I spent the better part of 2 days changing the drivers side and my hands were so banged and cut up they were swollen for several days after! It deffinatly helped but I think the passenger side needs one too because the drivers side was broken and the rubber just fell out when I took it appart.
EDIT: Sorry didn't refresh, but I see the passenger side was a POS too... Damn that sucks I'm sure mine needs to be changed!
EDIT: Sorry didn't refresh, but I see the passenger side was a POS too... Damn that sucks I'm sure mine needs to be changed!
#23
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Are you guys unbolting the AC compressor and the alternator to do this? I just replaced my oil pan and I really can't see it taking more then an hour or two to replace the motor mounts.
#24
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My motor has been out for about 8 months now and I am about to put it back in......but I forgot to mark the mounts. I have the prothan mounts and noticed that the metal shaft sticks out further on one side than the other. Which way does the side that sticks out further go? Twards the front or rear?
Thanks
Thanks
#25
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Originally Posted by 98TXFBODY
My motor has been out for about 8 months now and I am about to put it back in......but I forgot to mark the mounts. I have the prothan mounts and noticed that the metal shaft sticks out further on one side than the other. Which way does the side that sticks out further go? Twards the front or rear?
Thanks
Thanks
#26
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Originally Posted by 99PewterZ28
If your talking about what I think you talking about then it goes towards the front of the car. Drivers side & Pass side. The little metal tab on the side of the insert correct?
There are two little tabs that stick out of the motor mounts that would have to go up or down. I am talking about the shaft the bolt goes through. It sticks further out of the prothane on one side. On one side it sticks out about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch. on the other side its about 1/4inch. I need to know which way the longer side faces.
thanks
#27
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Originally Posted by 98TXFBODY
not sure if we are talking about the same thing
There are two little tabs that stick out of the motor mounts that would have to go up or down. I am talking about the shaft the bolt goes through. It sticks further out of the prothane on one side. On one side it sticks out about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch. on the other side its about 1/4inch. I need to know which way the longer side faces.
thanks
There are two little tabs that stick out of the motor mounts that would have to go up or down. I am talking about the shaft the bolt goes through. It sticks further out of the prothane on one side. On one side it sticks out about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch. on the other side its about 1/4inch. I need to know which way the longer side faces.
thanks
#28
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Originally Posted by CAT3
Are these just the polyurethane inserts for stock clam shells, or is it a whole new clamshell redsign? I have a tubular K member I need to install soon and want to do mm at the same time. I seen some tubular looking ones that open up a lot of room, but not sure if these are the solid mounts I heard to not use. Thanks.
mine were still a pain to install.
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Originally Posted by 99PewterZ28
The tabs that are on each mount would go up. Ok, when you took the mount out you had to drill out the rivits, correct? Now having done this one side of the clamshell had 3 rivits & the other had 2 rivits all that need to be drill out. The side that had the 3 rivits goes facing towards the heads on both sides & the side that had 2 rivits point towards the ground. Does this help?
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I think the reason they are such a pain is getting all the damn bolts back in and lined up correctly with so little space to work. The pedastal bolts don't like to thread and the ones on the block aren't that friendly either. I spent the better part of the day putting some in my buddies car and I figured it would only take 3-4 hours to do both... and I still need to put the final long bolt in the driver's side and reinstall the alternator too. The other mount is so solid now I can't get the motor to move enough to slide the final long bolt in easily.
#32
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Originally Posted by aram
I think the reason they are such a pain is getting all the damn bolts back in and lined up correctly with so little space to work. The pedastal bolts don't like to thread and the ones on the block aren't that friendly either. I spent the better part of the day putting some in my buddies car and I figured it would only take 3-4 hours to do both... and I still need to put the final long bolt in the driver's side and reinstall the alternator too. The other mount is so solid now I can't get the motor to move enough to slide the final long bolt in easily.
#34
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
JRP, where did you gat those pedestals made? I've been thinking of having some fabbed up myself. THe stock ones are so friggen overweight.
David
David
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#36
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
Hmmm, my profab K member came without motor mounts. Are they able to seperate from the K member, or are they built into the K member?
http://ourworld.cs.com/jrp%20pictures/DSC00015.JPG
#38
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Originally Posted by TAQuickness
K-member looked nice. I see the scale - save me the search - what's the weight difference?
!hijack
!hijack