Prothane motor mount is in!
Prothane motor mount is in! ...and what a pain in the *** it was to install. Six friggin hours for the driver's side mount. My shoulders and neck ache from being under the car. My knuckles and hands are busted in too many places to count. ( Side note: The robots at the factory tighten the motor mount to engine bolts really f'in tight! ) But it was all worth it.
To anybody who is contemplating this install, I will give a few words of advice;
GET A 15MM GEAR WRENCH! IT IS YOUR BEST FRIEND!
Be patient when moving the pedestal out of the way, it takes a minute.
You don't HAVE to pull your headers, but it'd be a HELL of a lot easier to do without them there.
My impressions from driving the car is that the car is 110% more solid-feeling now. It feels so different that it makes me wonder if the stock mount was broken. ( The mount did basically fall out of the clamshell ) The engine used to have a little shake at idle, now it's rock steady, even when I goose the throttle from under the hood, it stays perfectly still.
Installing the mount actually STOPPED most of the vibration and noise I was getting. Even when the car was stock, there was a little shake at exactly 2000 rpms in every gear when giving it part throttle. That has completely stopped. It has cut down 90% of the vibrations I was getting because of the duals. It also stopped the exhaust pipe hitting the bottom of the car completely. I hope when I strap on the Nittos that the extra traction doesn't make it hit, but I don't think that it will.
I would highly recommend doing this if you are doing a header swap or pulling your engine for any reason. It improves the feel of the car a whole lot. I'm very satisfied with it.
To anybody who is contemplating this install, I will give a few words of advice;
GET A 15MM GEAR WRENCH! IT IS YOUR BEST FRIEND!
Be patient when moving the pedestal out of the way, it takes a minute.
You don't HAVE to pull your headers, but it'd be a HELL of a lot easier to do without them there.
My impressions from driving the car is that the car is 110% more solid-feeling now. It feels so different that it makes me wonder if the stock mount was broken. ( The mount did basically fall out of the clamshell ) The engine used to have a little shake at idle, now it's rock steady, even when I goose the throttle from under the hood, it stays perfectly still.
Installing the mount actually STOPPED most of the vibration and noise I was getting. Even when the car was stock, there was a little shake at exactly 2000 rpms in every gear when giving it part throttle. That has completely stopped. It has cut down 90% of the vibrations I was getting because of the duals. It also stopped the exhaust pipe hitting the bottom of the car completely. I hope when I strap on the Nittos that the extra traction doesn't make it hit, but I don't think that it will.
I would highly recommend doing this if you are doing a header swap or pulling your engine for any reason. It improves the feel of the car a whole lot. I'm very satisfied with it.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Mike K.
yeah the poly motor mounts are great, made my shifter stop shaking and everything.
i remember when i installed the poly for my v6's tranny...
oh my fricking gawwwdddd, i was bout to go crazy til it 'broke' in
Originally Posted by jet_black
...and what a pain in the *** it was to install. Six friggin hours for the driver's side mount. My shoulders and neck ache from being under the car. My knuckles and hands are busted in too many places to count. ( Side note: The robots at the factory tighten the motor mount to engine bolts really f'in tight! ) But it was all worth it.
To anybody who is contemplating this install, I will give a few words of advice;
GET A 15MM GEAR WRENCH! IT IS YOUR BEST FRIEND!
Be patient when moving the pedestal out of the way, it takes a minute.
You don't HAVE to pull your headers, but it'd be a HELL of a lot easier to do without them there.
My impressions from driving the car is that the car is 110% more solid-feeling now. It feels so different that it makes me wonder if the stock mount was broken. ( The mount did basically fall out of the clamshell ) The engine used to have a little shake at idle, now it's rock steady, even when I goose the throttle from under the hood, it stays perfectly still.
Installing the mount actually STOPPED most of the vibration and noise I was getting. Even when the car was stock, there was a little shake at exactly 2000 rpms in every gear when giving it part throttle. That has completely stopped. It has cut down 90% of the vibrations I was getting because of the duals. It also stopped the exhaust pipe hitting the bottom of the car completely. I hope when I strap on the Nittos that the extra traction doesn't make it hit, but I don't think that it will.
I would highly recommend doing this if you are doing a header swap or pulling your engine for any reason. It improves the feel of the car a whole lot. I'm very satisfied with it.
To anybody who is contemplating this install, I will give a few words of advice;
GET A 15MM GEAR WRENCH! IT IS YOUR BEST FRIEND!
Be patient when moving the pedestal out of the way, it takes a minute.
You don't HAVE to pull your headers, but it'd be a HELL of a lot easier to do without them there.
My impressions from driving the car is that the car is 110% more solid-feeling now. It feels so different that it makes me wonder if the stock mount was broken. ( The mount did basically fall out of the clamshell ) The engine used to have a little shake at idle, now it's rock steady, even when I goose the throttle from under the hood, it stays perfectly still.
Installing the mount actually STOPPED most of the vibration and noise I was getting. Even when the car was stock, there was a little shake at exactly 2000 rpms in every gear when giving it part throttle. That has completely stopped. It has cut down 90% of the vibrations I was getting because of the duals. It also stopped the exhaust pipe hitting the bottom of the car completely. I hope when I strap on the Nittos that the extra traction doesn't make it hit, but I don't think that it will.
I would highly recommend doing this if you are doing a header swap or pulling your engine for any reason. It improves the feel of the car a whole lot. I'm very satisfied with it.
Did my drivers side yesterday, took me 3 hours and I pulled the header and alt. out. I didn't have to pull the pedestal (part that mounts to the K-member) out though. I can see it being an SOB with the header still in there, so I just dropped it right off the bat and made this an easy job really. Now for the passenger side...
Dan
Dan
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What took you guys 6 or even 3 hours, It only took me about 30 min. to do both sides, that was with painting the shells inbetween!
OH yeah I forgot to mention that heads, headers and all accessories are off the car. I see where it could take forever if the engine was complete it the compartment. You can go ahead and rag on me for taking two months so far to do my H/C swap, I just do a little here and there when time permits.
OH yeah I forgot to mention that heads, headers and all accessories are off the car. I see where it could take forever if the engine was complete it the compartment. You can go ahead and rag on me for taking two months so far to do my H/C swap, I just do a little here and there when time permits.
I feel your pain man, I did mine last thurs. Ive had them laying around for awhile just couldnt talk myselt into installing them. It took me about 5 hrs to do both sides. I didnt have to remove either pedistal. Just took the 4 13mm bolts out that hold it to the block, jack the engine up about a 1/2 inch and work the mount out. It takes some work but be patient with it. I have no inside vibration, no noise no nothing. My Y-pipe quit banging, my car doesnt shake. I would highly reccomend this mod to anyone, just not sure if you could pay me to do it again.
It took me six hours because I was taking my time and had everything in place, headers and all. Also, I have big hands, so it's tough for me to work around all that crap. I'll probably be doing the passenger side tomorrow. 
I can see how it'd be much easier to do than the driver's.
Hey Vann, I'ma be at MMP on Friday, shootin' for 12's. You gonna be there?
I can see how it'd be much easier to do than the driver's.Hey Vann, I'ma be at MMP on Friday, shootin' for 12's. You gonna be there?
Originally Posted by jet_black
It took me six hours because I was taking my time and had everything in place, headers and all. Also, I have big hands, so it's tough for me to work around all that crap. I'll probably be doing the passenger side tomorrow. I can see how it'd be much easier to do than the driver's.
Hey Vann, I'ma be at MMP on Friday, shootin' for 12's. You gonna be there?
I can see how it'd be much easier to do than the driver's.Hey Vann, I'ma be at MMP on Friday, shootin' for 12's. You gonna be there?
BTW- the pass side took me a total of 1hr to swap out. Just make sure you remove the starter it will make things alot eaiser.
Later,
Vann
something tells me u could actually get a minute bit more power to the wheels with solid mounts like that. my reasoning is that engine torque is being sucked up rocking the engine so when thats stopped, more of it is put through the driveline instead of bein sucked up by the mounts. maybe im wrong but hey, no harm in guessing.
Originally Posted by 8KickassRS9
something tells me u could actually get a minute bit more power to the wheels with solid mounts like that. my reasoning is that engine torque is being sucked up rocking the engine so when thats stopped, more of it is put through the driveline instead of bein sucked up by the mounts. maybe im wrong but hey, no harm in guessing.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...mid=86&sid=137
About 2/3's of the way down on the page. Part # 47-7-512.
About 2/3's of the way down on the page. Part # 47-7-512.
I got the passenger side in today. It sucked too, just not as bad as the driver's. It completely eliminated all the rattles, except for the little plastic pieces where the shifter is. Tightened up the car even further.
You couldn't pay me $1,000 to do it again. Not now, not ever.
99PewterZ28: Man, that really sucks. I wondered what that post in the lounge was about. Hope that everything comes out alright. It'd sure be cool to see you hit 10's this Saturday.
EDIT: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, the passenger side mount was BROKEN when I took it out. The rubber was cracked and separating. I looked at the driver's really good today, and it was the same way. I guess that it was time for new ones anyway.
You couldn't pay me $1,000 to do it again. Not now, not ever.
99PewterZ28: Man, that really sucks. I wondered what that post in the lounge was about. Hope that everything comes out alright. It'd sure be cool to see you hit 10's this Saturday.
EDIT: Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, the passenger side mount was BROKEN when I took it out. The rubber was cracked and separating. I looked at the driver's really good today, and it was the same way. I guess that it was time for new ones anyway.
Are these just the polyurethane inserts for stock clam shells, or is it a whole new clamshell redsign? I have a tubular K member I need to install soon and want to do mm at the same time. I seen some tubular looking ones that open up a lot of room, but not sure if these are the solid mounts I heard to not use. Thanks.