In middle of header install questions!!
In middle of header install questions!! I got the stock y-pipe and driver side exhaust manifold off in about twenty minutes. This part was easy. But now the passanger side. I can only get the first bolt out and spark plug wire. What are some hints or tricks as to how to get the last three spark plug wires off and get at the bolts. I have small hands and I can't even get back there to get the wires off.
Did anyone accomplish any of this from the bottom?
What was done from the bottom and what was done from the top?
Hints please. I have searched!!
Did anyone accomplish any of this from the bottom?
What was done from the bottom and what was done from the top?
Hints please. I have searched!!
A couple of things to help you out....
Remove the air tree( two 10mm bolts) from the manifold. Lay this on your intake. That frees up lots of working space.
If you still cant reach the rest of the plug wires, come up from the bottom. You should be able to get the last one and more than likely the 3rd one as well. Same with the bolts. You almost HAVE to get the rear bolt from the bottom. A stubby 10mm on a swivel makes all the difference in the world.
Also, removing the coil packs(which can be a PITA on the rear bolt) will give you some more working room if you need it.
Goodluck!!
Remove the air tree( two 10mm bolts) from the manifold. Lay this on your intake. That frees up lots of working space.
If you still cant reach the rest of the plug wires, come up from the bottom. You should be able to get the last one and more than likely the 3rd one as well. Same with the bolts. You almost HAVE to get the rear bolt from the bottom. A stubby 10mm on a swivel makes all the difference in the world.
Also, removing the coil packs(which can be a PITA on the rear bolt) will give you some more working room if you need it.
Goodluck!!
Originally Posted by Cammin BeaSSt
A couple of things to help you out....
Remove the air tree( two 10mm bolts) from the manifold. Lay this on your intake. That frees up lots of working space.
If you still cant reach the rest of the plug wires, come up from the bottom. You should be able to get the last one and more than likely the 3rd one as well. Same with the bolts. You almost HAVE to get the rear bolt from the bottom. A stubby 10mm on a swivel makes all the difference in the world.
Also, removing the coil packs(which can be a PITA on the rear bolt) will give you some more working room if you need it.
Goodluck!!
Remove the air tree( two 10mm bolts) from the manifold. Lay this on your intake. That frees up lots of working space.
If you still cant reach the rest of the plug wires, come up from the bottom. You should be able to get the last one and more than likely the 3rd one as well. Same with the bolts. You almost HAVE to get the rear bolt from the bottom. A stubby 10mm on a swivel makes all the difference in the world.
Also, removing the coil packs(which can be a PITA on the rear bolt) will give you some more working room if you need it.
Goodluck!!
What he said.
you dont have to get the rear plug from the bottom.....but it sure is a TON easier...and after you get the new headers on....it should be easier to get the plug in and out from the top 
EGR/AIR removed last year, dipstick removed, cruise loose and not in way. I will try and do it from the bottom tomorrow.
Does anyone have any trick for getting the stubborn spark plug wires off?
Does anyone get them off with anything other than their hands?
Does anyone have any trick for getting the stubborn spark plug wires off?
Does anyone get them off with anything other than their hands?
Originally Posted by jlrz28
Is you egr out of the way? How about cruise control if you have it? What about the dipstick?? These things should help you alot on the passenger side.
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The best thing to do is replace the spark plugs when you install the headers this is the best and easiest time to replace them.This is because you might crack one and not know it either. Another thing I would recommend is a gearwrench set and wobble extentions for your wrenches. Getting the wires off just pull on the boot or use a screw driver to pry them off on the end of them. Twist them to break them loose and dont pull on the wires obviously.
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yea I took all the time I needed. Took off the coil packs, dipstick, spark plugs, heat shield on the master cylinder line and the breather thing on the oil filter under the car (drips some oil so catch that). You will make your life easy if you get a 10mm deep socket, 10mm gear wrench, saw saw and some breaker bars. Plenty of WD-40 Before you start doesnt hurt. Drivers side was PITA so make sure you nothc what you need K member and the casting flash on the block. Oh prepare to have your hands tore up fosho.!!! Good luck if you need anything ask me I just finished mine today.
try using some spark plug boot pullers. i used these on my passenger side and it really helped. make sure you grab the boot securely with the pullers, and pull on the base of the pullers where they grab the boot. If you try to pull on it with only the handles, you will tear the spark plug boot. Just take your time and don't get in a hurry.
i always just found a way to wiggle my arm down their and get everything out 
. My arms gotta a little cut up, but no pain no gain. That was before i removied the AIR/EGR and re-located my coil packs, now i do plugs in like 20 mins.
. My arms gotta a little cut up, but no pain no gain. That was before i removied the AIR/EGR and re-located my coil packs, now i do plugs in like 20 mins. 
Pull the plug wires off the coil packs first, then they can be turned around and whatnot, makes getting them off the plugs alot easier.
Then remove the air tubes, coil packs, and dipstick, and you should be able to get in there. Hose everything down with wd40 like mentioned above, makes things easier.
I'd also reccommend a stainless bolt to replace the factory bolts, thatn way there's no rusted on bolts to deal with later. stage 8 locking work well, and don't loosen up.
A note that most people never ask.... did you check the header flanges to make sure that they are flat? Welding will warp the flange.. may wanna check.. could cause you alot less headaches with leaks later. Sandpaper on a flat block works well to remove high spots, or a bench sander, etc. etc. Something that's a flat surface that sandpaper can be attached to, whatever you're comfortable with will work. Color the header flanges with a marker, and hit them with a flat sander or sandpaper on a block, you'll be surprised how off they are.
Then remove the air tubes, coil packs, and dipstick, and you should be able to get in there. Hose everything down with wd40 like mentioned above, makes things easier.
I'd also reccommend a stainless bolt to replace the factory bolts, thatn way there's no rusted on bolts to deal with later. stage 8 locking work well, and don't loosen up.
A note that most people never ask.... did you check the header flanges to make sure that they are flat? Welding will warp the flange.. may wanna check.. could cause you alot less headaches with leaks later. Sandpaper on a flat block works well to remove high spots, or a bench sander, etc. etc. Something that's a flat surface that sandpaper can be attached to, whatever you're comfortable with will work. Color the header flanges with a marker, and hit them with a flat sander or sandpaper on a block, you'll be surprised how off they are.
Thanks for the ideas guys. I will verify they are flat before I install. It does look as if they have been resurfaced after they were welded plus they are kooks so hopefully no sanding is needed.
I guess coil packs will be coming off now then. I guess they should come off anyway since I will be moving right into the cam install after the headers are on.
I guess coil packs will be coming off now then. I guess they should come off anyway since I will be moving right into the cam install after the headers are on.