Painting exhaust?
04-05-2005, 09:53 PM
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Painting exhaust? I need to replace my front o2s and would like to RTV my clamps so I thought I might as well disassemble my exhaust and clean/degrease it and wire brush the welds to clean them up and paint the damn thing. I have some hi-temp paint that I will be using. It says to bake it to cure it or run the engine for an hour (nice long drive). Trouble is, I would be doing this off the car and I thought I could just let it dry naturallly for a day and then handle it. What should I do?
04-05-2005, 09:58 PM
#2
It i sbest to bake it somehow.... but you can let it set up for a couple of days to harden so it doesnt come off with handling...then bake it on the car....
If you have any lights that get hotter than ****...Like Concert Lighting...Par Cans with 1000 watt bulbs in them...that would do the trick too...
I have my exhaust sitting at work...getting ready to bake it when I get there tomorrow...paint is drying now... I have the exhaust inbetween 2 sticks of lighting truss with about 12000 watts of light in each stick of truss...one truss above and one below.... so 24,000 watts of concert lighting going to bake my paint for about an hour tomorrow.....then its going to have to cool down for a while...lol
If you have any lights that get hotter than ****...Like Concert Lighting...Par Cans with 1000 watt bulbs in them...that would do the trick too...
I have my exhaust sitting at work...getting ready to bake it when I get there tomorrow...paint is drying now... I have the exhaust inbetween 2 sticks of lighting truss with about 12000 watts of light in each stick of truss...one truss above and one below.... so 24,000 watts of concert lighting going to bake my paint for about an hour tomorrow.....then its going to have to cool down for a while...lol
04-05-2005, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
It i sbest to bake it somehow.... but you can let it set up for a couple of days to harden so it doesnt come off with handling...then bake it on the car....
If you have any lights that get hotter than ****...Like Concert Lighting...Par Cans with 1000 watt bulbs in them...that would do the trick too...
I have my exhaust sitting at work...getting ready to bake it when I get there tomorrow...paint is drying now... I have the exhaust inbetween 2 sticks of lighting truss with about 12000 watts of light in each stick of truss...one truss above and one below.... so 24,000 watts of concert lighting going to bake my paint for about an hour tomorrow.....then its going to have to cool down for a while...lol
If you have any lights that get hotter than ****...Like Concert Lighting...Par Cans with 1000 watt bulbs in them...that would do the trick too...
I have my exhaust sitting at work...getting ready to bake it when I get there tomorrow...paint is drying now... I have the exhaust inbetween 2 sticks of lighting truss with about 12000 watts of light in each stick of truss...one truss above and one below.... so 24,000 watts of concert lighting going to bake my paint for about an hour tomorrow.....then its going to have to cool down for a while...lol
no i don't have access to that like you do. I did read a post in the FI section about a guy using his grill to bake the headers but I guess he just left the rest to air dry. I will definately let it dry over a few days and hopefully I can bolt it up and clamp it without too much flaking off. I'll touch it up on the car if needed. 
thats awesome dude. 
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04-06-2005, 09:36 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Midnight F-117A
I had to paint my cutout tube and the welds. The paint always cracks from expansion/contract over some time.
So frequent repainting would be needed.
So frequent repainting would be needed.
04-08-2005, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
high temp paint sometimes has a "flex agent" in it...if you "cure" or "bake" it it should flex right along with the metal...and will not crack... if your high temp paint doesnt have that "flex agent" in it...then you should consider changing the paint you are using... If I had a can handy I could probably tell you what chemical to look for...but I dont have any paint around here right now.
Hey scott I don't believe your 1/4 mile times tell the truth.
04-08-2005, 07:32 PM
#12
Originally Posted by REDWS6CHICK
Hey scott I don't believe your 1/4 mile times tell the truth.
some people know how to drive...some people dont....
and I have been running consistent 12.9's...
and the day I ran 12.7xx was a very good day weather wise and DA wise for drag racing.
04-08-2005, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
believe what you want...but I have a timeslip and witnesses
some people know how to drive...some people dont....
and I have been running consistent 12.9's...
and the day I ran 12.7xx was a very good day weather wise and DA wise for drag racing.
some people know how to drive...some people dont....
and I have been running consistent 12.9's...
and the day I ran 12.7xx was a very good day weather wise and DA wise for drag racing.
Some people know how to lie but nothing personal it is just hard to believe. Mad props for a 12:7 on a stock car noting personal man.
04-08-2005, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by REDWS6CHICK
Hey scott I don't believe your 1/4 mile times tell the truth.
http://www.eurotrip-themovie.com/karaoke/index1.html
04-09-2005, 03:39 AM
#18
powdercaoting is great if you have a large enough oven to bake it on with.....
the problem is....with true duals from lanes for example...it comes shipped to you ready to put on th ecar as 1 giant exhaust system.... comes shipped in a box big enough for a single person matress....If you get smaller pieces that you have to assemble..or have welded....well...powdercoating doesnt weld..so you have to scratch it all off to weld it up...no good....and if you have smaller pieces and clamps...you get a buch of ugly clamps and scuffs and stuff on your exhaust.....
you could probably powdercoat the headers..... but it woul dbe kind of a waste in my opinion...especially since you really need some thermal type coating for power....and you have to have bare metal for the powdercoat to stick to...(needs electricity to make it stick...metal conducts the electricity...and you get negative charged powercoat stuff...sticking to positive charged metal....then bake it on)(or it might be positive sticking to negative...I cant remeber right now...just got home from working shows...havent had sleep in almost 40 hours....)
In my opinion...powdercoating is not a good idea on exhaust components.... much better to get a thermal coating...several companies make "colors" for their coatings...just depends on how much you are willing to spend to get the color you want...
good example....
jet hot headers.... sterling coating(good to 1300*) comes in silver/black/blue/grey
their next coating up the 2000 series coating(good to 2450*) only comes in black/blue/grey....
you only pay $25 more for the 2000 series coating...and it will probably never come off on any of our cars....maybe a really heavily turbo's and sprayed 402.....but not on most of our vehicles....(which the power adder it is suggested to get the 2000series) teh standard sterling coating is good for NA applications cause our headers just wont produce that much heat...
the problem is....with true duals from lanes for example...it comes shipped to you ready to put on th ecar as 1 giant exhaust system.... comes shipped in a box big enough for a single person matress....If you get smaller pieces that you have to assemble..or have welded....well...powdercoating doesnt weld..so you have to scratch it all off to weld it up...no good....and if you have smaller pieces and clamps...you get a buch of ugly clamps and scuffs and stuff on your exhaust.....
you could probably powdercoat the headers..... but it woul dbe kind of a waste in my opinion...especially since you really need some thermal type coating for power....and you have to have bare metal for the powdercoat to stick to...(needs electricity to make it stick...metal conducts the electricity...and you get negative charged powercoat stuff...sticking to positive charged metal....then bake it on)(or it might be positive sticking to negative...I cant remeber right now...just got home from working shows...havent had sleep in almost 40 hours....)
In my opinion...powdercoating is not a good idea on exhaust components.... much better to get a thermal coating...several companies make "colors" for their coatings...just depends on how much you are willing to spend to get the color you want...
good example....
jet hot headers.... sterling coating(good to 1300*) comes in silver/black/blue/grey
their next coating up the 2000 series coating(good to 2450*) only comes in black/blue/grey....
you only pay $25 more for the 2000 series coating...and it will probably never come off on any of our cars....maybe a really heavily turbo's and sprayed 402.....but not on most of our vehicles....(which the power adder it is suggested to get the 2000series) teh standard sterling coating is good for NA applications cause our headers just wont produce that much heat...
04-09-2005, 03:45 AM
#19
Originally Posted by REDWS6CHICK
Some people know how to lie but nothing personal it is just hard to believe. Mad props for a 12:7 on a stock car noting personal man.
that I am proud of and I give mad props to any girl in a V8 fbody...especially if she does her own wrenching(I could use a girl like that) dam shame you live all the way up in boston...oh well..maybe I'll send you a pm or something when I'm up that way on tour this summer....should see me out on warped tour...plus a few other things this summer