OWENMUSTANG

iTrader: (2)

whats the story on the crank pully?
i started with a 5 ton. could not get it to fit without removing fans/rad
so, then i got a 2 ton. fit, quickly broke it.
found a 3.5? ton, this fit. could not keep it on the pully under heavy torque load.(i was flexing the threaded rod with every turn-i was using a 3ft breaker bar )
notes
all were internal 3 claw pullers
yes, i did remove the bolt!!!
how are these removed in your driveway? short of using a low yield nuke?

blkZ28spt

You did remove the bolt? As in you removed it, then threaded it back in the recommended ~4 threads, give or take? Just checking. I got mine off relatively easily with a three jaw pulley puller loaner from autozone. No nukes.


Edit: I used a ghetto version of the longer crank bolt. Are you getting any progress on it?

OWENMUSTANG

iTrader: (2)

i removed the bolt. then threaded back in 3-4 complete rotations. (had about 1/8-1/4 air gap between the bolt face and the pulley surface).

i thought about heating it up with propane but, decided this might not be a good idea.

this car fights me on everything. (98 SS 9200.00 miles) i miss working on my 5.0's

blkZ28spt

I'd venture to guess that your problem lies with the pulley puller(s). It isn't up to the task if you are flexing the threaded rod portion of it and not making progress on removal of the pulley. Did you get it on there so that the threaded rod portion is more or less straight?

I fought with the stupid puller for awhile just trying to get all the claws on AND the threaded rod in place. It only wanted 2/3 claws to seat.

OWENMUSTANG

iTrader: (2)

after much fuss'n and well,cuss'n got it arrow strait.(all 3 claws engaged) i was putting so much force on it i now have a divot in the bolt head where the point bore into it. i may try the 5 ton again and remove the radiator & fan. i would rather not though.

hey, do you remember what the part number of the one you used was?

i don't understand why the pulley isn't threaded like a ford. 1000 times better set up imo.

blkZ28spt

I have no idea on the part#. Mine was done during my cam swap so the radiator/etc was all removed. How much room do you have to work with while the radiator is in? It might be/have been easier in the long run to go ahead and remove it. I had a divot in the crank bolt's head by the time my pulley came off too. You could try the torch on the inner part of the pulley. You don't really want to heat the crank/snout and don't want to get the pulley very hot either but sometimes a little bit of heat will go a long way. (that's how I got my crank bolt to budge and how I got the pulley seated on the crank snout when re-installing, which is a good thing b/c I didnt have a longer crank bolt or threaded rod at that time)

OWENMUSTANG

iTrader: (2)

the 5 ton hit the fan shroud, could not get it strait. i was worried about wiping out the crank seal if i put the torch to it, might try the heat.. pulling the rad is not really an option i would like to try at the moment.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

WHAT you need are some air tools buddy..... make sure you use a reg 3 ton pulley puller from autozone or equivilent, and just set it up straight make sure it aint flexing and hit it hard with the impact. These pulleys take some ***** to come out. I found that the trick is making sure the pulley puller is straight. Its alot easier said than done...One trick I used too was take out the bolt and use a long socket instead, this way the pulley has better leverage. It works good, kinda ***** up the socket, but hey craftsman replaces them no questions asked.....

OWENMUSTANG

iTrader: (2)

not quite following you on this part of it. could you give me some details?i'm guessing your talking about using the puller on the socket instead of the crank bolt?

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

Yea thats rite use a deep socket...... the part where the 3/8 goes is where you put the puller. it works better than the bolt cuz after a while the bolt sticks out and gets in the way of the puller. So break the pulley free with the crank bolt go as far as it will permit, then switch over to the socket and take it out all the way. PS. I dont think I would of got the pulley off without the impact.

777

iTrader: (21)

i'm with the socket idea...that worked great for me...ya'll need to work out if you can't get the pulley off haha...j/k i just used a normal 3/8" drive wrench (5/8" socket i think) on the autozone rental pulley...it came right off...after some turning...of course my hand was a little sore the next day from pulling on the wrench...haha...oh well my car had about 99k when i did it a month or so ago...a breaker bar or bigger wrench would have made it much easier

Racer8102

iTrader: (12)

I had a tuff time taking mine off also. I used a 3/8 extinsion instead of the bolt, got the 3 ton puller on there super tight and took a dead blow hammer and hit the end of the puller (where the wrench goes) tightened some more tapped the pulley, got pissed, let it sit for 30 min or so came back and it was loose, I don't know what happened maybe the force for a extended period of time did it I have no clue. Good luck.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

Is the autozone rent-a-puller a 2 or 3 jaw guys? Just wondering because I want to buy a puller for my own use. I see some on sears' website for around 30/40 bucks, so that's not too bad, esp if I use it more than once.

Thanks!

-Alex

blkZ28spt

Autozone's is a three jaw puller. THe one that we use at least, they probably have several.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

Damn, you must have been sitting at your computer waiting for me! That was one fast answer. Thanks man. I'll try to find a 3 jaw that will fit in there with the radiator still there!

leeluther252

iTrader: (17)

Mine came out with no force at all.. using a flat 3 bar puller.. Seemed to fit easier then the jaw puller.

OWENMUSTANG

iTrader: (2)

are you removing the rad/shroud when using the impact/dead blow methods?
room is at a premium under there. i used three different extenions along with several swivels tring to use my impact on the bolt. that didn't work (figured that out when the swivel shot past my head )

WS6 RULES

I just did mine 2 days ago. It was a beast. I ended up using a heavy duty 2 jaw puller and put a 3/8 drive 6 inch extension in the bolt hole to push on. It finally came off. Also it is a REAL good idea to get a longer crank bolt to pull the pulley back on. Then take that out and finish with the right bolt. You will strip the threads trying to pull it back on with the short bolt. Good luck.

2000Z28M6

iTrader: (13)

the problem with doing it with out the impact is that you have a bigger chance of getting the puller to go crooked, the only way the puller is gunna work if its straight all the way if its off even by a little its not goin to pull. The impact will allow you almost no movement, while wrestling it with a ratchet or a breaker bar will somtimes make it crooked and then your fucked.....

CATDIESEL

I removed mine this weekend with a bluepoint 3 jaw puller. It comes with a special length rod that goes in the crank hole and the arms lock firmly on the pulley. It came off with a short 1/2 in drive ratchet . The tool was like 100 dollars but from what i have read on this forum it was worth every penny. It is made for ls1,and chrysler applications