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Battery Relocation - Aluminum #00?

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Old May 17, 2005 | 01:57 PM
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Default Battery Relocation - Aluminum #00?

Last year I did some panel work and was surprised
how light the #00 aluminum utility wire for 200A
service was. You can get junction blocks and anti-
corrosion goop to join up to copper. So this seems
like an interesting option for battery relocation,
weight-wise.

Anybody used this kind of scheme, or know of any
reason why not?
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Old May 17, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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Humm, not sure how many amps the starter draws when starting, but can't batteries put out like 600 CCA (cold cranking amps)?

Edit: Was just looking a wire gauge chart, and I think I may be wrong I think the 00 guage will work. The wire won't heat up as much with 12V car as with 110 house voltage. correct me if i'm wrong?

Last edited by Grimes; May 17, 2005 at 02:52 PM.
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Old May 17, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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It's amps over area that equates to temp rise I think.
Amps is amps, the wire doesn't care (you don't want
to be dropping your voltage in the wire, but the load).
But I also think 200A continuous duty can probably
handle > 500A cranking duty.
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Old May 17, 2005 | 05:01 PM
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Correct, 200 amps is 200 amps no matter what teh voltage, and thats why a fuse will blow the same in a 12v vs 24v vs 48v environment. Interesting idea about using aluminum. Hopefully it will light less cars on fire than houses.
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Old May 18, 2005 | 01:20 AM
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What are you trying to gain by moving the battery?
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Old May 18, 2005 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by WILWAXU
What are you trying to gain by moving the battery?
weight transfer is the general reason. or space for turbo setups
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Old May 18, 2005 | 04:15 PM
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I'm thinking Odyssey dry cell in the spare tire well
and aluminum bus bars could take out maybe 60lb
of nose weight and put 20lb over the right rear
tire. With copper I'd probably have at least another
10lb into relocation. Looking to get weight off the
nose primarily, to improve my lousy traction.
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