harmonic balancer bolt.
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From: hamilton, Ohio
harmonic balancer bolt. I replaced the bolt after the cam swap but now we have to take it out. will I need to buy a new one or is the one I have ok since it was only used for a day.
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Originally Posted by nvrstsfd23
I replaced the bolt after the cam swap but now we have to take it out. will I need to buy a new one or is the one I have ok since it was only used for a day.
Originally Posted by nvrstsfd23
I replaced the bolt after the cam swap but now we have to take it out. will I need to buy a new one or is the one I have ok since it was only used for a day.
The bolt is designed to stretch when you put that final 120 degree turn on it when tightening down. As a result once it's removed you need a new one. They're called torque to yield bolts b/c you're taking the bolt to it's yield point and it has permanent plastic deformation after that (it's stretched).
while on the subject whos got the best deal on an arp? hell this buying a new bolt (for the 4th time i think) is getting expensive....i always say ok this is the last time its coming apart then..6 months later its down again.hahahh
Originally Posted by redbandit98
while on the subject whos got the best deal on an arp? hell this buying a new bolt (for the 4th time i think) is getting expensive....i always say ok this is the last time its coming apart then..6 months later its down again.hahahh
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I personally believe replacing the bolt is a load of crap. The bolt may not be as elastic as it was but who cares...it sure isn't going to break. Put a dap of silicone on the treads and under the washer and it will never come off until you want it to. It is not like it is a head bolt that has really been stretched.
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From: Fat Chance Hotel
Originally Posted by ChucksZ06
I personally believe replacing the bolt is a load of crap. The bolt may not be as elastic as it was but who cares...it sure isn't going to break. Put a dap of silicone on the treads and under the washer and it will never come off until you want it to. It is not like it is a head bolt that has really been stretched.
Torque to yield is just that...yield(point of failure/stretch)
It doesn't matter what type or size of bolt it is...TTY fasteners are only "good" for one use.(torque-ing) Even non TTY fasteners are only good for a limited number of torque-ings.
Just the facts ma'am.
Originally Posted by technical
Torque to yield is just that...yield(point of failure/stretch)
It doesn't matter what type or size of bolt it is...TTY fasteners are only "good" for one use.(torque-ing) Even non TTY fasteners are only good for a limited number of torque-ings.
Just the facts ma'am.
It doesn't matter what type or size of bolt it is...TTY fasteners are only "good" for one use.(torque-ing) Even non TTY fasteners are only good for a limited number of torque-ings.
Just the facts ma'am.
...that or spend 3 bucks. That's what I did for my new balancer bolt.
Originally Posted by ramairstyle00
my buddy re-used his factory bolt and had the pulley fly off while the car was at 6800rpm 
Originally Posted by Red99TA
Was there any evidence of the bolt breaking or was it completely gone (like it just backed out)?
it had backed out.
he put that bolt on TIGHT to... 200+ pound man lifting himself up by the breaker bar
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From: Fat Chance Hotel
Originally Posted by digitalsolo
... Just relube them, and you're good to go, if you install them right.
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
200+ pound man lifting himself up by the breaker bar doesn't mean it was tq'd to 37 ft lbs then turned another 140* though.
can't really do much more then that
Originally Posted by ramairstyle00
can't really do much more then that
Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Then be prepared to keep losing bolts. With a long enough cheater bar, the bolt can be turned 140* easily. I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 3' piece of pipe. I actually have to be careful not to go past 140*. I use the Kent Moore F/W locking tool also. On over 25 cam installs, I've never had a crank bolt come loose.
i weigh 125#'s and even i can get it to 140
