Tips for changing #8 spark plug.
06-21-2005, 08:03 PM
#1
Tips for changing #8 spark plug. Well I finally got around to changing the plugs. Except #8. I have followed Install University's write up on changing them, its a very good guide BTW. Well I ran out of daylight, so I'll be out there working on #8 tommorrow. I removed the AIR pipe and pushed the coil pack rail upwards to give myself some room. I tried their method of using a 1/2" swivel extension with no results. I couldn't get enough torque on the sucker to break it loose with tiny 1/4" ratchet that would fit back there. I tried using a 1/2" ratchet, but couldn't ever get the sucker in position and it was too big to work with back there. Right now my game plan is to go out there tommorrow and fiddle with the 1/2" ratchet and 1/2" extension and pray.
So how did you change your #8 plug? Can you get at the sucker better from underneath the car???(I doubt you could). How hard is it to remove that black plastic thing that is to the left and in the way?
So how did you change your #8 plug? Can you get at the sucker better from underneath the car???(I doubt you could). How hard is it to remove that black plastic thing that is to the left and in the way?
06-21-2005, 08:06 PM
#2
TECH Junkie
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 3,242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#8 I usually do from the bottom, its all about the right comination of tools other than that, use different sized socketz/wrenches until you get a good combo. #8 is easier from the bottom though. If you have stock manifolds and cats it may still be too hard to go from the bottom in which case you will need the right tools for you and some patience.
06-21-2005, 08:09 PM
#3
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Fairmont, WV
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I change #8 from the bottom also. I think the black plastic thing you speak of is the AC Evaporater. Also headers make it better believe it ir not. Hope that helps.
06-22-2005, 08:18 AM
#6
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Out on the farm in Central IL
Posts: 4,399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pull the coil packs and do it from the top. Once you get the back bolt out for the coil packs throw it as far as you can and never look back.
Trending Topics
06-22-2005, 09:52 AM
#8
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 2,371
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Steve Burger
Pull the coil packs and do it from the top. Once you get the back bolt out for the coil packs throw it as far as you can and never look back.
06-22-2005, 10:42 AM
#9
Man do I ever hear ya about that back bolt on the coil packs. I chucked that thing who knows how far. But yeah ditto what everyone is saying by going from the top. Remove the whole coil pack assembly and you should have no problem with the swivel and socket. If you haven't ever removed the coil packs, bring a big bag of expletives with ya. I sure needed them. 
06-22-2005, 12:27 PM
#12
Originally Posted by AronZ28
So how did you change your #8 plug? Can you get at the sucker better from underneath the car???(I doubt you could). How hard is it to remove that black plastic thing that is to the left and in the way?
06-22-2005, 05:41 PM
#17
06-22-2005, 09:57 PM
#20
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Prairie de Femme, LA
Posts: 3,809
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i removed the coil packs and never reinstalled it again 
(thunder kit). that one was a major PITA even with headers. i found a breaker bar worked better than a ratchet.
(thunder kit). that one was a major PITA even with headers. i found a breaker bar worked better than a ratchet.