Stark

iTrader: (25)

PM Bo White or Cammin'Beast!!!


This was ALOT of work. Hats off to those two for porting TB's for such a small price. I've seen Ron's work in person, it's well worth the time you'll save by letting one of them DO IT FOR YOU!


Before-


After-


I used the sanding bits on my dremel to get the big stuff, then came back with a carbon brush to smooth out the rough areas. After that i cut small strips of 300 sandpaper, and wrapped them around q-tips to get into the small areas around the spring and the TPS. Did the same thing with 600 sandpaper, then used a small felt brush and emory compound to get it polished.


I'll repeat a tip i read on this board, i believe it was Bo White, said
" draw a line with a felt tip pen where the blade is before you take it out, that way you'll know how far you need to port. If you port past your line, you'll have idle problems."

Like i said, if you don't have extra time, just buy one, or send yours out to be ported.

SOM98TA

iTrader: (1)

that is beautiful... approximate time to complete it?

KILLERARMY

RON "Cammin BeaSSt" Mowen is working on my TB.

Dustin

iTrader: (13)

That is really nice. Why didnt you grind down the blade holder thing, lol??

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

My tip is to go this one better. Mark the seating circle,
remove the blade and shaft, and then put several layers
of masking tape over the marked line, plus maybe 1/8"
for luck. Use that as your hogging and polishing guide,
plus the masking tape will take a couple of "oopses"
without letting you smeg the aluminum.

The Professor

iTrader: (3)

that looks damn impressive. i'm gonna send mine to ron as soon as i can get some down time on the car.

BAN-LS1

iTrader: (16)

Looks awesome!!!!

yes, why not half the shaft while you're in there? Just curious?

Stark

iTrader: (25)

Thanks guys!

SOM98TA- I was really bored so i spent more time on it than i should have, i say 24 hours over the last week. I would finish one side, then see a part i didn't like and redo it, only to find another part i didn't like.

The reason i didn't grind down the blade shaft.....

I didn't think about

I've got a Shaner TB on the car now, so i'm in no hurry, maybe i'll grind the blade shaft next week. Of course i'll want to polish something else by then, maybe my valve covers!

jimmyblue-that's a VERY good idea, cause i went "off course" twice, but it was nothing the 600 sandpaper couldn't fix.

JonB

iTrader: (3)

That looks real good. I have to clean up the outside of mine to look like that i did the inside already a couple times just kept finding spots i did't think were good enough.

Got a question how do you do get rid of the blade shaft. I thought about doing it when i did mine but had no idea how to do it. Do you just grind it out or what?

Stark

iTrader: (25)

The pics i've seen on here (now that i've been looking) the blade shaft is ground down in three spots " around" the screws that hold the blade.
So it would look like only 2 high spots where the blade screws are. Since the blade shaft has a slit, i would be REAL careful grinding it down. Maybe someone has a pic of one done. I guess every little bit helps.

Gary Z

I've never heard this word but think it a fine addition to the language: smeg – v.t. to spoil by poor work; botch, bungle, butcher.

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

That looks awesome dude , great work. Yes, it was me that suggested using a majic marker to scribe the blade circle and its seemed to help some folks out. To take the half shaft out just take your Dremel with a cut off wheel on it and just cut the front section off flush with the factory cut slit for the blade. Again, looks great

Stark

iTrader: (25)

Thank you Sir!!

Had i not have read your advise, i would have ruined my TB.
I might try to "reduce" the blade shaft next week, but i have one question..
Did you reinstall the ring that came off the bearing when you tapped out the shaft?


Mine went back on, i just didn't know if you re-installed it or not.

Thank you for your help.

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

I have never reinstalled the lock ring, there is no side load on the shaft to warrant its reuse. Also, use flat washers under the screw heads so that it will increase the clamping force on the blade when ya take the half shaft out. The factory screws are tapered to fit the front part of the shaft and when ya take that part out all you have is a flat blade so I use #6 flat washers to strengthen that.

Bill's 02 Z-28 SS

Great job -