Sorry I know this topic has probably been beaten to death but I still have some questions the exhaust mod articles do not fully cover.
I have an 01 SS with long tubes headers and an ORY. I should have got the race style headers but what's done is done. I understand the main purpose of the AIR system is to provide fresh air for the cats to catalyze the hydrocarbons that didn't get burned but is there a secondary purpose or any other benefit to keeping this in a car without cats?

My main question is in regards to the ses code disconnecting this system will throw and passing emissions. I currently have to pass an OBD II test only here. I have my rear o2 codes deleted already. When the AIR or anything else like this is deleted from the programming does this effect my OBDII readiness
test completion ? In other words I guess what I am asking is does the readiness test not show up or show incomplete ? How exactly does this work?

Also since the reason I am doing this is to clean up the engine compartment for a little better plug access, I'm not so much concerned with weight savings. Since the actual pump is not in the way of anything and kind of hidden I was thinking of just leaving it mounted in the car and just removing the hoses and all the other stuff. If I did this and left the electrical connector plugged in on the pump would it then not throw the ses code or does the removal of the solenoid and other parts cause a code to be set? It would basically just be pumping air into nothing right which would not hurt anything?
Does anyone make something like an O2 sim guess it would be called an AIR sim? for this or is programming the only way to do it?


Also, if I left this vacuum line in the car like in the article below
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....0&postcount=21
is there a better way to seal this, maybe with some rtv silicone? I don't like the idea of threading into the plug. I figure if I ever decided to put the AIR system back in the car I could just pick the RTV out.

Lastly as far as plugging the breather hole in my lid, I'll probably just get another lid but is there another way of doing this other than the 3/4 plug like in the article ? Some thing a little less obnoxious looking?

 

Really good questions...I'd also like to know? You gotta pass an OBD-II scan in my state as well & if I tune out the AIR system, will it come incomplete or not show at all? Thanks.

 

When you remove AIR it will throw a code. But when you get the code deleted it will not show at all and you should pass just fine. The only way that you wouldn't pass is if the code isn't deleted properly (which I don't see how that could be done) or when they do the visual check and they KNOW its missing which I don't think will happen either

So yes you can still pass

 

That is a good question. I was also wondering if there is an AIR sim. Anyone?????

 

As far as I know there is no AIR sim.

Regarding the AIR pump, I would just take it out. It's actually pretty heavy, and every little bit of weight loss helps, and every bit of weight lost off the front end helps more. It's not hard to get to at all.

 

anyone else?

 

You guys are really making to big of a deal out of this. The AIR system does only one thing, it injects extra air to the cats on startup to get them going faster. After that, the pump turns off. No air sims are available. Remove the pump fuse if you don't want to remove the pump (remove the fuses regardless). If the codes are done properly, you local feds won't see it come up as problem on the scanner. Just plug the little vacuum line with whatever you want, as long as it doesn't leak, who's going to see it? As far as the hole in the lid, the little rubber plug looks a lot less obnoxious than the 2 air pipes you will have to plug on your emissions headers you bought. How are you going to explain that to the local emissions dude?

 

Don't know about the others but like I said they won't look under my hood, OBDII test only here. Sorry but I don't want a plug over my breather like the one pictured in the article, no offense to the guy. I measured the hole in the lid last night and the grommet and am going to find something that will fit flush so it looks nice. That's all I was asking about as far as that goes.
I wasen't trying to make a big deal out of this but the questions I had in regards to emissions testing were not addressed in either article.
Taken from the article: "This is the same pump that makes an annoyingly loud whirring noise during startup and sometimes while cruising"
http://www.ls1camaro.net/sections.ph...ticle&artid=70
You say it only comes on at startup yet according to this it also comes on during crusing sometimes. This is why I ask questions, you get a different answer from everyone.

 

I told you that you wouldn't need it to pass and if you have it deleted out with a tuner you would be fine. I felt my post answered your question. I don't think you made a big deal either you asked a qestion that is asked often around here.

Here in texas we have OBII testing and they still pop the hood and take a look. If they really want to get picky they can get under the car and look for cats. Thats here though and I don't know how they do things in IL but that's why I mentioned it.

 

hope you didn't take offense to what I said , I didn't mean for it to come off that way if so. You did answer my questions and I thank you.

 

nope I didn't at all and I hope I didn't come off that way either. I didn't mean to

 

What was your solution for plugging the lid? I will be removing my AIR system soon. Thanks.

 

I had my AIR system deleted from the computer and went through OBDII testing fine. As far as the lid you can buy a new one that doesn't have the hole, as mine didn't have a hole (direct-flo) it came with a small filter.

 

Dont hold it past SLP. It will probably cost $150.00 too. HAHA

 

Dont hold it past SLP. It will probably cost $150.00 too. HAHA

 

It's only for heating the cats faster on startup. Turns on for 40 sec. max. I've never heard it come on during cruising. There is some chance the cats will clog up over time if AIR is disconnected.

 

I removed my air system, with teh exception of the distrubution block on te drivers side head.. which will come off with teh stock heads in a month. I think that the vacum line is attached to that somehow.. it must be, because teh lines going to it are all off, along with my pump and all that, and I had no vacum line anywhere to plug.

Best wayt o plug that vacum would to get a small rubber cap and zip tie it to wherever that line comes from... a dab of silicone for extra precaution would also seal it up good.

Once you get that stuff off, and see the cleanliness of the engine bay you gained, you won't be putting it back on.


Don't worry about the emmissions either, the tune can delete it, and 99% of the tech's out there wouldn't even know what tehy are looking at when they pop the hood anyway, the engine stuffed under the cowl usually scares tehm away anyway LOL.