Flow Tech LT's = CRAP
#1
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Yea so everybody told me these were crap because the flandges are to thin and people always over torque them and bend them = Leaks...Well i bought them anways, for about $150 with Y pipe (used of course) I told my self i wouldnt bend them or over torque them-& Thats the FIRST THING I DID!
So besides kicking my self in the *** and buying new headers do you guys think theres a way to fix them? I probley could bend them back but how would i know when there streight?
Id probley make them worse. Im going to double up on gaskets and maybe that'll help. Do any of you have any other ideas?
Thanks guys
Joe L
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So besides kicking my self in the *** and buying new headers do you guys think theres a way to fix them? I probley could bend them back but how would i know when there streight?
Id probley make them worse. Im going to double up on gaskets and maybe that'll help. Do any of you have any other ideas?
Thanks guys
Joe L
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You could see if this works. My Y pipe had gotten hung up on on a Rock and tore it up. With this it made the header leak. I took it to a guy I knew and he heated it up and made it straight, No more leaks and he used the same gasket. This might work for you as well. Worth a try.
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I had a bent flange on another car and leaked, I forget what its called, but its like a paste you can sick on either side of the gaskit and slap it together (its not gaskit maker)...When you start the car, the heat will cure it and youll have a leak free flange! Worked great for me. I got it at a local car part store. Hope that helps.
#10
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Originally Posted by Thrasher245
I had a bent flange on another car and leaked, I forget what its called, but its like a paste you can sick on either side of the gaskit and slap it together (its not gaskit maker)...When you start the car, the heat will cure it and youll have a leak free flange! Worked great for me. I got it at a local car part store. Hope that helps.
Thats sounds like a good idea-I dont want it to look tacky though...
What do you guys think of pacestters? They are really cheap too (in price) how are there quality?
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Yup, Pacesetters are the way to go if you're looking to stay cheap, but still have good quality.
Pacesetter price is around Flowtech's, but Pacesetter is FAR ahead in terms of a good product.
I hate to say it, but it's really a shame that more people don't listen to some of the guys on here. They'd save a lot of time and money, because the guys on here often know what they're talking about
Pacesetter price is around Flowtech's, but Pacesetter is FAR ahead in terms of a good product.
I hate to say it, but it's really a shame that more people don't listen to some of the guys on here. They'd save a lot of time and money, because the guys on here often know what they're talking about
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Sorry to hear about the problem-is it the primary flange your talking about or the flange for the Y pipe? I love my flowtechs-I don't get any leaks or even ticks that alot of guys get with headers. Maybe its luck of the draw, I know I torqued the hell out of both sets of flanges and am without leaks-maybe they make them thicker now, cause mine aren't to old.
#17
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Its the primary flange that bolts to the engine. Its only 1/4" thick. The problem with using 1/4" on that header is that inside the flange the primary tube weld is in there and its raised which keeps the flange itself from laying flat agains the head. When you go to tighten the bolts down the welds are lying against the head and the flange gets " pulled" toward the head at every spot where there is a bolt.
I put a set of flowtechs on a car and used brand new OEM gaskets which is all I ever use and they still have a slight leak.
The Pacesetter header has a thick 3/8" flange, even thicker than the Hooker. It will not warp.
If you look at the poor flanges, the factory made dent in the tube near the k member, and the fact that they are as much as Pacesetters then it makes no sense to buy them.
I put a set of flowtechs on a car and used brand new OEM gaskets which is all I ever use and they still have a slight leak.
The Pacesetter header has a thick 3/8" flange, even thicker than the Hooker. It will not warp.
If you look at the poor flanges, the factory made dent in the tube near the k member, and the fact that they are as much as Pacesetters then it makes no sense to buy them.
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I have a set on my truck, its just got a normal ole small block! I had problems too, then i tried some of those copper gaskets, tightened them once and that has been it! There tight everytime i check, the gaskets come with there own bolts and lock washers!
Thou my hookers did alot better for power, but these were free so what the hell!
Thou my hookers did alot better for power, but these were free so what the hell!
Last edited by Lurch84; 10-29-2005 at 02:57 AM.
#19
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[QUOTE=Full-Force]Its the primary flange that bolts to the engine. Its only 1/4" thick. The problem with using 1/4" on that header is that inside the flange the primary tube weld is in there and its raised which keeps the flange itself from laying flat agains the head. When you go to tighten the bolts down the welds are lying against the head and the flange gets " pulled" toward the head at every spot where there is a bolt.
QUOTE]
That right there is exactly what happend to me!
My 1st set ogf headers were Edebrock shortys, but were flush agiants the head. I assumed these had to be flush too...Oh i was wrong. Yea some people get luck but its very few. I got my pacesetters in yesterday and they look like great quality. The only thing is that i didnt pay attention that i orderd the non coated
Oh well...Hopefully they dont rust to bad and when they do some WD40 can help me out hehe
QUOTE]
That right there is exactly what happend to me!
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#20
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You headers are gonna rust quick. Doesnt mean they are no good, they just wont look so hot. The paint will come off upon cranking it. You might get you a can of that 1200 or 1500 degree ceramic paint at Advance. Strip the paint off of them first or the black paint will lift the ceramic paint with it.