? about headers and true duals
? about headers and true duals if i buy texas-speed true dual exhaust kit what headers work well with it? i think the pacesetters will work. but which ones line up the best if im to use them with the texas speed dual exaust. and if i get the off road headers what else do i need to do, i think i need O2 sims and O2 extensions but i know there somthing else i need to do with the AIR system and EGR stuff but im not sure what. thanks for your help.
IRRC they are designed for JetHots, Hookers and Pacesetters
JetHots and Hookers for sure. But I am living proof you can make them work on QTP's.
SLP's prob not, and MAC's for sure not.
Correct me if I'm wrong though.
Also, your AIR and EGR is a decision your header selection is based on.
Your cat-back or True Dual setup won't be affected by it.
Your emissions laws in your area should help you determine if you want to keep your AIR and EGR, your exhaust setup should not effect it.
O2 Simms are not necessary if you are going to get a full tune, They can just remove the error code that causes the SES light to come on, or trick it more if your trying to pass emissions. Consider where and when you are going to get a tune too, a good tuner may not be availible near you.
I bought O2 Simms for the rear and regret it b/c I'm going to tune myself and could have just removed the code. Wasted $90 or so.
QTP headers required 12" O2 extensions for the front O2's and I still had some slack to tie up.
I would imagine most other headers would be the same, as the collectorsdont look THAT much different with respect to the O2 bung location.
Anything more and you will have too much slack I think
Good luck bro
DJ
JetHots and Hookers for sure. But I am living proof you can make them work on QTP's.
SLP's prob not, and MAC's for sure not.
Correct me if I'm wrong though.
Also, your AIR and EGR is a decision your header selection is based on.
Your cat-back or True Dual setup won't be affected by it.
Your emissions laws in your area should help you determine if you want to keep your AIR and EGR, your exhaust setup should not effect it.
O2 Simms are not necessary if you are going to get a full tune, They can just remove the error code that causes the SES light to come on, or trick it more if your trying to pass emissions. Consider where and when you are going to get a tune too, a good tuner may not be availible near you.
I bought O2 Simms for the rear and regret it b/c I'm going to tune myself and could have just removed the code. Wasted $90 or so.
QTP headers required 12" O2 extensions for the front O2's and I still had some slack to tie up.
I would imagine most other headers would be the same, as the collectorsdont look THAT much different with respect to the O2 bung location.
Anything more and you will have too much slack I think
Good luck bro
DJ
Thanks for the help. but i just have one more ?. since im using off road headers i wont need the rear O2s right? and since there off road ill need to do somthing with my air and egr stuff. will the block off plates from www.ls1speed.com do the job or is there somthing else im going to need along with the code delete and plates?
When you say "off road headers" I am going to assume that means headers without the AIR or EGR provisions correct? These are also called "race style".
If so, that means you will not have anything to connect the AIR or EGR parts on the engine to on the headers. That being said, it would follow that you would NOT need block off plates for the AIR and EGR as the provisions on an "off road header" wound not even be present for them to mount to.
Understand?
Basically how it works is, If you buy headers that are "Race style" or "off road" as you put it, you will NOT need the block off plates.
If you DO buy them with the AIR or EGR provisions, it allows you to remove the AIR and EGR hardware from your engine, but gives you the flexibility to replace them in the future.
If you are removing AIR and EGR from your system entirely, no plates needed.
Also, the headers have no bearing on weather you need the rear O2 's or not.
That is only a consideration for everything AFTER the front O2's IE your choice in exhaust. If you have off road Y or True duals, no need for O2's get the codes deleted or pay 90$ for simms. If your planning on being emissions compliant and run cats, you can keep the rear O2's.
Does that help?
please anyone correct me if I am posting incorrect info.
DJ
If so, that means you will not have anything to connect the AIR or EGR parts on the engine to on the headers. That being said, it would follow that you would NOT need block off plates for the AIR and EGR as the provisions on an "off road header" wound not even be present for them to mount to.
Understand?
Basically how it works is, If you buy headers that are "Race style" or "off road" as you put it, you will NOT need the block off plates.
If you DO buy them with the AIR or EGR provisions, it allows you to remove the AIR and EGR hardware from your engine, but gives you the flexibility to replace them in the future.
If you are removing AIR and EGR from your system entirely, no plates needed.
Also, the headers have no bearing on weather you need the rear O2 's or not.
That is only a consideration for everything AFTER the front O2's IE your choice in exhaust. If you have off road Y or True duals, no need for O2's get the codes deleted or pay 90$ for simms. If your planning on being emissions compliant and run cats, you can keep the rear O2's.
Does that help?
please anyone correct me if I am posting incorrect info.
DJ
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what about the air or egr or whatever it is in the intake manifold wont that be gone and need somthing there? thats what i was talking about. i realized all the hook ups on the exhaust manifolds would be gone with race style or off road headers but on the 98-00 intakes isnt there somthing like an air or egr on there?
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Verdad Gallardo For the AIR there is a small hose or tube that you will need to plug with a small screw.
Also depending on if you have replaced your stock air lid or not, there will be a hole to cap for that aswell, as the AIR tubing that goes into is is now gone with the removal of the entire AIR system. There is also an electrical connection that will be hanging loose inside the drivers side headlamp area where the AIR pump was.
The EGR will have a small hole on the intake directly behind the throttle body that you will need to cap. That part can be purchased from several vendors and it has been recommended to go to your local auto parts store and get a freeze plug which will also do the job. Other than that, the EGR has no other plugs that need covering upon removal. There will also be a loose electrical clip that could be tied down or covered once the EGR is gone. No extra parts needed for that though.
I am not tryign to be negative here but I think it woudl serve you well for this install and for future mods to read over This post It will prob answer all the questions you have here, and give you more info on any future induction and exhaust mods you may do. I read this at least 8 times before I made my Exhaust purchases and will prob refer back to it in the future. Plenty of knowledge there, don't just rely on replies in this thread.
Good luck
DJ
Also depending on if you have replaced your stock air lid or not, there will be a hole to cap for that aswell, as the AIR tubing that goes into is is now gone with the removal of the entire AIR system. There is also an electrical connection that will be hanging loose inside the drivers side headlamp area where the AIR pump was.
The EGR will have a small hole on the intake directly behind the throttle body that you will need to cap. That part can be purchased from several vendors and it has been recommended to go to your local auto parts store and get a freeze plug which will also do the job. Other than that, the EGR has no other plugs that need covering upon removal. There will also be a loose electrical clip that could be tied down or covered once the EGR is gone. No extra parts needed for that though.
I am not tryign to be negative here but I think it woudl serve you well for this install and for future mods to read over This post It will prob answer all the questions you have here, and give you more info on any future induction and exhaust mods you may do. I read this at least 8 times before I made my Exhaust purchases and will prob refer back to it in the future. Plenty of knowledge there, don't just rely on replies in this thread.
Good luck
DJ
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Sorry to just bust in but does anyone know what exactly the rear o2 sensors do? i put my pacesetter/tsp system on about 2 weeks ago and i just have the rear o2's taped up under the car. does anyone know if this is a bad thing or if it's hurting my engine? i plan on buying an hptuners tuning suite for my laptop and i was wondering if i could delete the rear sensors with that...
12 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by MadMike329
Sorry to just bust in but does anyone know what exactly the rear o2 sensors do? i put my pacesetter/tsp system on about 2 weeks ago and i just have the rear o2's taped up under the car. does anyone know if this is a bad thing or if it's hurting my engine? i plan on buying an hptuners tuning suite for my laptop and i was wondering if i could delete the rear sensors with that...
Originally Posted by MadMike329
Sorry to just bust in but does anyone know what exactly the rear o2 sensors do? i put my pacesetter/tsp system on about 2 weeks ago and i just have the rear o2's taped up under the car. does anyone know if this is a bad thing or if it's hurting my engine? i plan on buying an hptuners tuning suite for my laptop and i was wondering if i could delete the rear sensors with that...
^^^^^ 