Header question
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 145
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From: Orlando, FL
Header question Yes I know and I'm sorry to be posting another header question...
However, I've reviewed a great many threads on the subject and it seems the more I read the less I know? I'm hoping one of you will be kind enough to explain this to me so that I can understand it and guide me to what I'm wanting.
I have an 02 T/A WS6 that's stock other than: It does have a GMMG cat back and Ls1 Motorsport air box on it. That's it for performance mods. I do have the SLP bolt on Subframe connectors (Old style) not the new ones they sell now.
I'm wanting to eventually purchase some headers and a Y pipe. I don't want it being too loud so I'll be getting the Y pipe with Cats. What I'd like to do is purchase a system or complete kit as it may be called. Not too interested in playing the matching game.
If you was going to get a system like I've described which would you lean towards. Bare in mind Money isn't really a problem but just like you I like getting the best deal for the buck... (Why Overpay I say: when you could get something just as nice for a lesser price.) Stainless steel is something I would consider but it doesn't have to be Stainless. I'd be just as happy with something that is of just as good a quality.
Need your advise,
Thanks
However, I've reviewed a great many threads on the subject and it seems the more I read the less I know? I'm hoping one of you will be kind enough to explain this to me so that I can understand it and guide me to what I'm wanting.
I have an 02 T/A WS6 that's stock other than: It does have a GMMG cat back and Ls1 Motorsport air box on it. That's it for performance mods. I do have the SLP bolt on Subframe connectors (Old style) not the new ones they sell now.
I'm wanting to eventually purchase some headers and a Y pipe. I don't want it being too loud so I'll be getting the Y pipe with Cats. What I'd like to do is purchase a system or complete kit as it may be called. Not too interested in playing the matching game.
If you was going to get a system like I've described which would you lean towards. Bare in mind Money isn't really a problem but just like you I like getting the best deal for the buck... (Why Overpay I say: when you could get something just as nice for a lesser price.) Stainless steel is something I would consider but it doesn't have to be Stainless. I'd be just as happy with something that is of just as good a quality.
Need your advise,
Thanks
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From: Tree-Hugging, Bug eating CALI'
I went with QTPs and their catd' y-pipe to compliment my Borla. With the QTEC closed, it isn' t too loud at all. Once you open the QTEC, that' s different. I LOVE the sound and think it' s the best sound one can get. Opinions obviously differ, but, if you are asking why I would buy the QTPs, I' d say, because they are SS, because they could NOT fit better, and because they will not flake or rust. Yes, there are more budget headers out there, that will make about the same HP, but EVERYTHING I would want in a header is in what QTP has come out with. I could not ask for a better header, except that it could be less expensive. The y-pipe, is a different story 
but what do you want for a full 3" y-pipe? Anyways, figure out exactly what you expect in a header, and go from there. If you want top-notch quality, unmatched durability, great appreance, a lifetime of usage, easy install, go QTP/Kooks. I you don't need all these atributes, there are many other choices.
Good luck
but what do you want for a full 3" y-pipe? Anyways, figure out exactly what you expect in a header, and go from there. If you want top-notch quality, unmatched durability, great appreance, a lifetime of usage, easy install, go QTP/Kooks. I you don't need all these atributes, there are many other choices.Good luck
Last edited by radz282003; Nov 29, 2005 at 04:08 PM.
I doubt any coated header will be 'just as nice' as a stainless steel. If you can afford it, go stainless.
Maybe you should find out what stainless steel header is the best bang for the buck rather than debate economics of different types.
Maybe you should find out what stainless steel header is the best bang for the buck rather than debate economics of different types.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7
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From: Dallas, TX
Originally Posted by FLA02TA
I doubt any coated header will be 'just as nice' as a stainless steel. If you can afford it, go stainless.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 145
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From: Orlando, FL
Thanks everyone... I do use the car in lot's of car shows so Looks are somewhat important. But then so is my money too.
I've looked into:
kooks
QTP's and
Stainless works
Yes, all are expensive far more that I like but stainless should last a very long long time right...
My biggest concern is getting the right package that will fit with little to no trouble. I do still have the air thing and don't plan on removing it. I also have fuel rail covers so I'm a bit concerned about heat build up from the headers melting them?
I know there is only a small differences in HP?TQ numbers from one header to another. Also each company likes saying their produce more. Nevertheless what is a realistic HP/TQ number I can expect with my system (I only have an LS1 Motorsport air box & a GMMG cat back exaust)?
I've looked into:
kooks
QTP's and
Stainless works
Yes, all are expensive far more that I like but stainless should last a very long long time right...
My biggest concern is getting the right package that will fit with little to no trouble. I do still have the air thing and don't plan on removing it. I also have fuel rail covers so I'm a bit concerned about heat build up from the headers melting them?
I know there is only a small differences in HP?TQ numbers from one header to another. Also each company likes saying their produce more. Nevertheless what is a realistic HP/TQ number I can expect with my system (I only have an LS1 Motorsport air box & a GMMG cat back exaust)?
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From: Miami
I've heard nothing but good things about Stainless Works systems for clearance (including their Y-pipe).
I had QTP HVMC LT's and they slipped right in, produced increadible gains over SLP LT's, and their Y-pipe is extremely free flowing, yet has not the best clearance.
Kooks has had a few fitment issues as of late. Their Y-pipe tucks up well.
For your setup, go SW, as their entire system is stainless.
I had QTP HVMC LT's and they slipped right in, produced increadible gains over SLP LT's, and their Y-pipe is extremely free flowing, yet has not the best clearance.
Kooks has had a few fitment issues as of late. Their Y-pipe tucks up well.
For your setup, go SW, as their entire system is stainless.
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Teching In
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From: Ohio
Which Headers to Buy I too am also looking at buying a header system. I would like to keep everything on my 02' SS from SLP, however I have heard that they are not the best (Most power for the money) you can buy.
Any comments????!!!!!!
Any comments????!!!!!!
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Verdad Gallardo !LS1 11 Second Club
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From: Miami
^ SLP LT's hang low, are down on hp compared to other Long Tubes when you start changing the internals (cam, heads), etc. They're made pretty well, yet their Stainless Steel is not up to par as with KOOKS or QTP.
If you wish to maintain everything SLP, that's up to you (there's no short term rationale for that, and any future collector value is speculative).
All SLP makes well is catback exhausts and lids (and their adj. tq arm is damn fine also).
I've had both SLP LT's and QTP HVMC LT's and I wouldn't go near SLP LT's after sampling what a real set of long tubes can do performancewise.
BTW. SLP LT's are a total bitch to install and remove (must pry tranny over). All other brands slide right in.
If you wish to maintain everything SLP, that's up to you (there's no short term rationale for that, and any future collector value is speculative).
All SLP makes well is catback exhausts and lids (and their adj. tq arm is damn fine also).
I've had both SLP LT's and QTP HVMC LT's and I wouldn't go near SLP LT's after sampling what a real set of long tubes can do performancewise.
BTW. SLP LT's are a total bitch to install and remove (must pry tranny over). All other brands slide right in.
Sorry to tell u but one size does not fit all. U do not need cat for quite. If u do not have cats u do not need the air. If you need cats to pass emissions that is fine but I would not have them if I did not need them. If you need a kit then I would not try to mod your car.
It will cost big $$$$ to get a shop to do it. I have heard 2500.00 or so. All that said. I have QTPs that I polished and they look great. I would not get a QTP y pipe. Someone will have to cut and fit it for it to tuck up nice.
Last but not least u will need to get a tune to get the most horse power. U should get 30 or so with out cats.
It will cost big $$$$ to get a shop to do it. I have heard 2500.00 or so. All that said. I have QTPs that I polished and they look great. I would not get a QTP y pipe. Someone will have to cut and fit it for it to tuck up nice.
Last but not least u will need to get a tune to get the most horse power. U should get 30 or so with out cats.
Headers? If u can find a set of Hooker coated headers for a good price, grab them, they look good fit good, and unless u are talking monster motor in the fture, the hey will be fine, kooks or qtp are nice, but not worth the cash unless u start to build a big cube motor, I am very happy w/ hookers and hooker ory into the Borla, can easily rip thru 1,2 and usually into 3rd w/ my mods, dyno #'s on sunday to see h'p gains after headers and l't's, previous #s were 326hp in 100 degree heat in texas in july, she's a factory freak boys.hopefully we will see 340 rwhp and finalyy figure th af ratio, cuz she needs a tune, who needs a cam when u put down 326 with a borla and a lid, and its not even an SS 
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
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From: England
I'll make it easy for you.
Originally Posted by *JC*
Thanks everyone... I do use the car in lot's of car shows so Looks are somewhat important. But then so is my money too.
I've looked into:
kooks
QTP's and
Stainless works
Yes, all are expensive far more that I like but stainless should last a very long long time right...
My biggest concern is getting the right package that will fit with little to no trouble. I do still have the air thing and don't plan on removing it. I also have fuel rail covers so I'm a bit concerned about heat build up from the headers melting them?
I know there is only a small differences in HP?TQ numbers from one header to another. Also each company likes saying their produce more. Nevertheless what is a realistic HP/TQ number I can expect with my system (I only have an LS1 Motorsport air box & a GMMG cat back exaust)?
I've looked into:
kooks
QTP's and
Stainless works
Yes, all are expensive far more that I like but stainless should last a very long long time right...
My biggest concern is getting the right package that will fit with little to no trouble. I do still have the air thing and don't plan on removing it. I also have fuel rail covers so I'm a bit concerned about heat build up from the headers melting them?
I know there is only a small differences in HP?TQ numbers from one header to another. Also each company likes saying their produce more. Nevertheless what is a realistic HP/TQ number I can expect with my system (I only have an LS1 Motorsport air box & a GMMG cat back exaust)?
Budget setup:
Go to TSP (Texas Speed and Performace they are a sponsor) ---->
And get some coated Pacesetters (I'd go full emission myself, but then I plan on keeping the EGR system). And TSP's own catted Y.
Premium setup:
Go to Stainless Works (again a sponsor ---->)
And get their Long tube headers.
They make a Y pipe in 2.5" and 3" if you ask, not sure whether they offer CATS or not (never seen so on their website). If not Go to Random Technology and purchase some high flow CATS (7000 series Metal Matrix), you'll need an exhaust shop to fit these.
-------
The GMMG is reknown for being fairly noisy. So even with cats it may be too loud. If it is then Stainless Works sell chambered mufflers (exactly the same type as used on the GMMG) in stainless steel. Measure up and fit one in the I pipe. This will not affect the performance or the tone just the volume.
For a more budget approach Classic Chambered Mufflers offer a similar chambered muffler but in aluminimised steel.
All you need to do is spend 30 mins and work out the price of each setup. Then choose which one you think offers the best value for money and meets your criteria.
EASY
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by BULLET99Z28
If u can find a set of Hooker coated headers for a good price, grab them, they look good fit good, and unless u are talking monster motor in the fture, the hey will be fine, kooks or qtp are nice, but not worth the cash unless u start to build a big cube motor, I am very happy w/ hookers and hooker ory into the Borla, can easily rip thru 1,2 and usually into 3rd w/ my mods, dyno #'s on sunday to see h'p gains after headers and l't's, previous #s were 326hp in 100 degree heat in texas in july, she's a factory freak boys.hopefully we will see 340 rwhp and finalyy figure th af ratio, cuz she needs a tune, who needs a cam when u put down 326 with a borla and a lid, and its not even an SS
That's a very interesting statement to say the least.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,660
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From: England
Originally Posted by SouthFL.02.SS
That's a very interesting statement to say the least.
Originally Posted by BULLET99Z28
If u can find a set of Hooker coated headers for a good price, grab them, they look good fit good, and unless u are talking monster motor in the fture, the hey will be fine, kooks or qtp are nice, but not worth the cash unless u start to build a big cube motor, I am very happy w/ hookers and hooker ory into the Borla, can easily rip thru 1,2 and usually into 3rd w/ my mods, dyno #'s on sunday to see h'p gains after headers and l't's, previous #s were 326hp in 100 degree heat in texas in july, she's a factory freak boys.hopefully we will see 340 rwhp and finalyy figure th af ratio, cuz she needs a tune, who needs a cam when u put down 326 with a borla and a lid, and its not even an SS
An SS has the SAME engine as a Z28, Formula, Trans Am.
Outside temp should make no difference on a dyno, as all results SHOULD be corrected to a standard.
Also, no you don't have a factory freak. Was it a Dynojet dyno? These are non-load bearing dyno's which read higher numbers. Also where the numbers converted to SAE instead of STD?
I'm sure you're car runs great, but in all honesty to compare directly rolling road rwhp numbers to factory claimed SAE Net numbers you really need to knock anywhere from 20-30rwhp off of your number.
This will more accuratly reflect a more realistic number.
If you want more info on the subject, feel free to PM me.
let me explain What I meant about the Kooks and qtp headers are I'm sure they make a tad bit more power, and when I can afford to build a stroker motor, I will probably bu a set of stainless headers to maximize output. I bought my coated hookers for 300, slightly used, and a new ypipe for180. I think these headers look good, and I think they will perfom fine even w/ heads and cam.. And about the factory freak comment, my buddy calls it that because it seems to outrun cars w/similar mods, and the dyno #'s were good b4 the headers and ory.
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by BULLET99Z28
What I meant about the Kooks and qtp headers are I'm sure they make a tad bit more power, and when I can afford to build a stroker motor, I will probably bu a set of stainless headers to maximize output. I bought my coated hookers for 300, slightly used, and a new ypipe for180. I think these headers look good, and I think they will perfom fine even w/ heads and cam.. And about the factory freak comment, my buddy calls it that because it seems to outrun cars w/similar mods, and the dyno #'s were good b4 the headers and ory.
