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Throttle body Bling (Pictures)

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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 03:22 PM
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Default Throttle body Bling (Pictures)

Decided to polish up the outside while I was porting the TB.



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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 03:27 PM
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Looks good. How hard was it to port it?
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Big D's SS
Looks good. How hard was it to port it?
It wasn't hard at all. I just roughed up the opening, filled it up with Devcon and used a die grinder with an acorn shaped bit (with some WD40) to remove material and shape it. I then drilled the hole and sanded the rest by hand. Started with 80 grit, then 150, 600 & 1000. I bought a 2" polishing wheel and polished it up. The only thing I would do differently would be to insert a brass tube before filling the hole with Devcon or epoxy. Then grind the rest of the tube off. It's a pain the *** to drill the hole the way I did it. Plus it would have a finished edge to it.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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So can I tell which hole I need to leave open? I think I know. So your saying just put a piece of pipe in the hole to keep it open and fill the rest with epoxy and let it dry. Then sand spooth. How do you know how much to take out of it? I'm sure you can go too much.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Big D's SS
So can I tell which hole I need to leave open? I think I know. So your saying just put a piece of pipe in the hole to keep it open and fill the rest with epoxy and let it dry. Then sand spooth. How do you know how much to take out of it? I'm sure you can go too much.
Yeah, it will be obvious where to fill, it's the big square opening, you can see exactly if you look at the picture. Look around the hole, you can see it's a different color. That's where it's filled. Yes, it's possible to take out too much material. Just go slow and shape it the way mine looks. You are trying to smooth out the flow and make the opening a little larger. Just make the inside opening the same size as the blade then smooth it all out to meet the edge. There is a ridge in the TB that needs to be removed. I think you would have to really take out a lot to screw it up. Just go slow.

P.S. Don't screw around with the inside. Only work from the blade out.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:00 PM
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Sounds pretty simple. I guess a lot of time and a little patience. Will I have to have mine retuned? I have thought about it a few times and then something else comes up. So work from the blade out and? Make the lip disappear?
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Big D's SS
Sounds pretty simple. I guess a lot of time and a little patience. Will I have to have mine retuned? I have thought about it a few times and then something else comes up. So work from the blade out and? Make the lip disappear?
Yes, remove the blade first. You will have to take the actuator off first. Don't touch any of the machined surface after the blade. Make the lip almost disappear, smooth it out. No, you definitely will not have to retune. And really, it does not take that long once you get going.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:14 PM
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Thanks for your time and info. I will look into this this weekend. Is it hard to take the blade off and the actuator? I just don't wanna mess it up. It is my daily driver and really don't want to have to buy another T/B. The only other thing I need is my LS6 intake and another catback. I should be good till I do a rebuild with new heads and a bigger cam.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:14 PM
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i would get a black marker and when the blade closed make the tb where the edge of the blade is and then start your porting.... that way you will ensure not to get that area and have idling issues...just my .02

ps looks very good and shiny!
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Big D's SS
Thanks for your time and info. I will look into this this weekend. Is it hard to take the blade off and the actuator? I just don't wanna mess it up. It is my daily driver and really don't want to have to buy another T/B. The only other thing I need is my LS6 intake and another catback. I should be good till I do a rebuild with new heads and a bigger cam.
No, it's easy to remove both. You will need the Torx bit with the hollow end to remove the actuator, I forget what size it is. Just look at yours and make sure you have that before you take it off the car so you don't have to run around after. After the actuator is removed, you can loosen the two regular Torx screws on the blade, and move the gear by hand so you can remove the blade. After that, its the epoxy, grinding, etc. Do you have a die grinder and a carbide bit?

Feel free to PM me with any questions if you like.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by slimcracka
i would get a black marker and when the blade closed make the tb where the edge of the blade is and then start your porting.... that way you will ensure not to get that area and have idling issues...just my .02

ps looks very good and shiny!
Good idea.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:20 PM
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Ya I have the grinder I would just go and buy a new carbide bit. Like I said thanks for the time and info. Will let you know how it turns out.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by slimcracka
i would get a black marker and when the blade closed make the tb where the edge of the blade is and then start your porting.... that way you will ensure not to get that area and have idling issues...just my .02

ps looks very good and shiny!
Thanks that is a good idea.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Big D's SS
Ya I have the grinder I would just go and buy a new carbide bit. Like I said thanks for the time and info. Will let you know how it turns out.
If you like, I can post a picture of the bit I used.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CBX
If you like, I can post a picture of the bit I used.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Big D's SS
Give me 10 minutes.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by CBX
Give me 10 minutes.
Here ya go Bro:



Make sure to use some WD40 while you are cutting, it makes the cut really smooth.

and here is another angle, you can see the filled in area better as well as the profile of the TB.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:44 PM
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Thanks for your help that thing looks like it was made that way. I really apppreciate your help. I hope all goes well with mine. I will hit you up when I get it done. Thanks again. Dave
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Big D's SS
Thanks for your help that thing looks like it was made that way. I really apppreciate your help. I hope all goes well with mine. I will hit you up when I get it done. Thanks again. Dave
You're welcome. I'm sure you will do fine.
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Old Jan 5, 2006 | 03:34 PM
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In porting a lot of the f-body guys mention a bump stop that limits how far the blades open, Is this a factor with wireless setup that vets come with??? Btw can I test for a full throttle by simply removing the air tract(sp?) turning ingnition on but not starting and mashing it to the floor??/
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