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, I’m not going to argue with you, I’m just stating what I’ve read from this forum since 2001. As far as "blowing out seals” That's what you said before you edited it to "force oil out of any seals", I don’t know where you got that from. IMO I stated that I would run two breathers only. And some of my reasons are due to condensation building on the top inside of the valve covers, I believe the water vapor is going to want to rise to the top areas of the engine and I would want there to be two breathers to help the water vapor escape, especially if I only drive the car down the street before the car really has enough time to heat up the oil. IMO I would want to vent as much as reasonably possible to prevent this and other oil leaks, as far as running one or ever three breathers there is still going to be a slightly more pressure on the inside of the crank case relative to the outside of the crankcase, That’s why I believe some people start having small oil leaks running breathers and using an oil that tends to leak more like Mobil one, I would want to make sure I have as little pressure in the crank case as possible, that’s all.Your are correct. Motors making power (+-500rwhp or so) will push oil out the seals if you don't have the motor properly vented. The stock style is not enough.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=43
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=42
This is easily reversed since I live in CA, land-of-you-know-what...
Edit: ooops, I fixed those links.
Last edited by joecar; Mar 9, 2006 at 08:04 PM.
will the breather help reduce oil press build up and reduce the amount of vaper going through the PCV valve?
i just ordered a nice breather vent system , also comes with a new oil neck.
will the breather help reduce oil press build up and reduce the amount of vaper going through the PCV valve?
i just ordered a nice breather vent system , also comes with a new oil neck.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
when I pulled the PCV valve, oil dripped from the short rubber connector to the intake manifold;
when I pulled the TB and looked inside the intake, the floor of the intake had a pool of oil;
it was using 1 QT of oil every 1000 miles or less (I even tried 15W50 and 20W50, same problem);
when accelerating hard, would sometimes puff a little blue smoke out back (...had me a little worried about rings...).
So, I drilled the cap and made the alteration, ran a bunch of top engine cleaner thru the intake manifold (yuck... HUGE HUGE big brown/black/blue/yellow smoke out the back...).
And now...
I have no ping;
It uses only 1/2 QT every 3000+ miles (using 10W30 in winter and a blend of 10W30 and 15W50 ("12.5W40") in summer);
when I pull the TB, the intake manifold floor is dry;
no more blue smoke at all;
when I pull the hose from the PCV valve to the intake manifold, it's inside is dry;
the PCV valve is lightly wet on the engine side;
what I figure is that the PCV value is away from the engine and sticking up like that runs a little cooler, so the oil vapours condense when they hit it and fall back down (I don't really know...);
probably get some oil vapour thru there, but I haven't noticed any signs.
When you accelerate hard, lots of oil is pumped up pushrods to rockers and, acceleration pushes it toward rear of valve covers, where it promptly gets sucked into PCV tubes with the old setup.
With new setup, airflow at the TB is the same but is reversed thru PCV tube and thru engine.
I think if i look in my intake and see oil i might try this but use a pcv that had a 90* bend in it so that tube isnt way up the air like that
engine is still under vacuum;
Cheers
Why not stick one over the fitting on the rear most part of the drivers side valve cover?
Would this be a good idea?
My PCV mod.: Run a vacuum line from the passenger rear cover port to the driver side rear cover port. Cut the line in the center & install a T. Run a short 1.5" long vertical line (straight up). Install the PCV valve vertically (in its' boot) on the 1.5" vertical line. Just slide the boot over the vertical line you made & clamp it on the smaller line as was done on the stock connection. Put a breather filter on top of the PCV. The vertical line should rest against the fire wall for support. The passenger side forward line remains installed to the intake as it is in the stock set up. Now the PCV operates as designed & if any oil climbs the vertical line, it will coat the inside of the filter, not the intake. This short line vented to atmosphere is less of a vent restriction than the stock design & all air entering the valve cover has gone through the MAF.
Have had no oil in the filter. The drain opening should be made in conjunction with the new PCV circuit.
The only question i have is that the breather can and will vent crankcase pressure,
but will it be good enough by its self? ,
The PCV system forces and sucks crankcase pressure out of the engine and into the throttle body,
Yes oil and hot oil vaper too.
I would love to elimate this hot oil & vaper from entering my intake
but i would also not want to deal with excessive crankcase pressure building up and causing oil to blow past any seals,
and i am about to install a D1-sc procharger system on my 01 SS M6





