In a nutshell, yes.

 

Your are correct. Motors making power (+-500rwhp or so) will push oil out the seals if you don't have the motor properly vented. The stock style is not enough.

 

I deleted the PCV and routed the two valve cover holes to each collector on my LT1 and will be doing this on the LS1.

 

This isn't listed in the poll, but here's what I did to my daily driver...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=43
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=42

This is easily reversed since I live in CA, land-of-you-know-what...

Edit: ooops, I fixed those links.

 

how about just install the breather on the pasenger side and keep the PCV system too,

will the breather help reduce oil press build up and reduce the amount of vaper going through the PCV valve?
i just ordered a nice breather vent system , also comes with a new oil neck.

 

also what is the part # of the truck PCV valve that some members are using?

And how does it help prevent oil from getting into the intake,
will it fit ? just like the stock LS1 PCV valve?

 

You can't have a breather and PCV at the same time, unless you get rid of your MAF.

 

Joe car did that oil cap set up help much, i see it would be further away from oil flow but wouldnt vapor still come up thru there?

 

I had lot of pinging;
when I pulled the PCV valve, oil dripped from the short rubber connector to the intake manifold;
when I pulled the TB and looked inside the intake, the floor of the intake had a pool of oil;
it was using 1 QT of oil every 1000 miles or less (I even tried 15W50 and 20W50, same problem);
when accelerating hard, would sometimes puff a little blue smoke out back (...had me a little worried about rings...).

So, I drilled the cap and made the alteration, ran a bunch of top engine cleaner thru the intake manifold (yuck... HUGE HUGE big brown/black/blue/yellow smoke out the back...).

And now...
I have no ping;
It uses only 1/2 QT every 3000+ miles (using 10W30 in winter and a blend of 10W30 and 15W50 ("12.5W40") in summer);
when I pull the TB, the intake manifold floor is dry;
no more blue smoke at all;
when I pull the hose from the PCV valve to the intake manifold, it's inside is dry;
the PCV valve is lightly wet on the engine side;

what I figure is that the PCV value is away from the engine and sticking up like that runs a little cooler, so the oil vapours condense when they hit it and fall back down (I don't really know...);
probably get some oil vapour thru there, but I haven't noticed any signs.

When you accelerate hard, lots of oil is pumped up pushrods to rockers and, acceleration pushes it toward rear of valve covers, where it promptly gets sucked into PCV tubes with the old setup.

With new setup, airflow at the TB is the same but is reversed thru PCV tube and thru engine.

 

im not sure what this means, but anyway to clean the pool in the intake u said u used upper cylinder cleaner, i guess thats the same as seafoam correct,and what did u do just run it in SD mode and feed it thru the TB and that cleaned it all out. also could there be any psossible problem venting with the pcv in the possition
I think if i look in my intake and see oil i might try this but use a pcv that had a 90* bend in it so that tube isnt way up the air like that

 

The air flow direction is out from the TB, thru engine, and into intake manifold, same as before; but now, the flow thru engine is in reverse direction (in thru PCV tube, to rear of valve covers, in thru valve covers, thru engine, out thru PCV valve in oil cap).
Yes, it's similar, that's what I did, rev engine while pouring cleaner into manifold (where PCV valve goes to), repeated a few more times after that.
I put that in at 25K miles, now I have 64K+, and I haven't had any problems; I occasionally pull the hose at the TB and check for vacuum, and it is healthy;
engine is still under vacuum;
I just used my stock PCV valve and some fuel hose I had in my tool box; the loop in the hose fits under my ram air hood without hitting.

Cheers

 

Those wanting to run two breathers.

Why not stick one over the fitting on the rear most part of the drivers side valve cover?

Would this be a good idea?

 

Yes. BTW, I found that opening the drain hole in the driver's side valve cover allows the oil to drain back into the engine instead of up into the PCV line. There's a tray (baffle) inside the valve cover. The hole that allows oil to drain off of it & back to the engine is very small & oil gets trapped on the baffle. It just sits there, right under that driver side PVC connection, waiting to get sucked into the PCV line & intake. Open the drain hole, it helps.

My PCV mod.: Run a vacuum line from the passenger rear cover port to the driver side rear cover port. Cut the line in the center & install a T. Run a short 1.5" long vertical line (straight up). Install the PCV valve vertically (in its' boot) on the 1.5" vertical line. Just slide the boot over the vertical line you made & clamp it on the smaller line as was done on the stock connection. Put a breather filter on top of the PCV. The vertical line should rest against the fire wall for support. The passenger side forward line remains installed to the intake as it is in the stock set up. Now the PCV operates as designed & if any oil climbs the vertical line, it will coat the inside of the filter, not the intake. This short line vented to atmosphere is less of a vent restriction than the stock design & all air entering the valve cover has gone through the MAF.

Have had no oil in the filter. The drain opening should be made in conjunction with the new PCV circuit.

 

why not just remove the whole PCV system , just run a hose to the back of each valve cover to keep them link together and install a casper LS1 passenger side valve cover breather,

The only question i have is that the breather can and will vent crankcase pressure,
but will it be good enough by its self? ,
The PCV system forces and sucks crankcase pressure out of the engine and into the throttle body,
Yes oil and hot oil vaper too.
I would love to elimate this hot oil & vaper from entering my intake

but i would also not want to deal with excessive crankcase pressure building up and causing oil to blow past any seals,
and i am about to install a D1-sc procharger system on my 01 SS M6

 

So is the LS6 PCV the safest way to fix this? I like the PCV in the cap idea. I would also like to see pics of LS1-450's setup.

 

405a shows the vertically mounted PCV valve w/ the filter on top. It is T'd into the hose that connects the passenger & driver side valve covers. 408a I am holding the forward passenger side hose that connects to the throttle body. The shiny part in the line is a fuel filter. Originally installed to keep oil from the intake. It's not required & is installed just in case.

 

I just did the mod that Joecar did and now my cars runs so much better. My ls1 has been running very weak with a rough idle and now it hauls *** again and the idle is smooth. I was ready to give up on stopping oil into the intake. I have a AMW catch can have tried fuel filters after the can and also the pcv with the tiny hole and a vertical pcv and using longer hoses and nothing worked.

 

I just cleaned out my AMW Catchcan and it had ~2 cups of oil in it. That would have been consumed by the engine. I checked the line going from the catchcan to the intake and it was oil free. Seems to working as designed......

 

im going to switch over the the ls6 pcv setup and run my amw catch can.Then im going to run my throttle body hose to the old pcv line on the passenger side so it will pull fresh air down through both valve covers instead of just the one.this has to be the best setup i think.Breathers will just not cut it as far as proper ventilation.

 

So does anyone have experience with deleting the PCV System and adding a breather on the passenger side? I would really like know…cus I’m kind of confused and don’t know what to do.
Steve