People got me scared
People got me scared 
I am now in the position to buy the Pacesetter LT's and ORY (all coated) that I want oh and QTP elec cutout. After reading all these posts everyone has got me scared that I am just going to have PROBLEMS and screw my car up. I dont know what is fact and what is fiction anymore. I have a 2001 SS M6 with 34500 on it. It is not a daily driver. Garage kept. I have jackstands and a jack with lots of tools. I am a Fighter Aircraft mechanic so that shouldnt be a problem. Will I HAVE TO HAVE A TUNE? Are there any other things that I need to buy in order to NOT mess my baby up.
Yes I have done the searches but they just scare me off with each new post that I read. Dont know if the cutout is a good idea anymore either.
Should I have it done. Got a shop that will do the Headers, ORY, fully welded, and the 3.73 gears that I want for 650$. Is that robbery or pretty good? Just dont know anymore. Any input would be great. Thanks.
Installing the 3.73 gears should be around $500 alone. That's if they supply the gears.
Bumping up to 3.73's in a 6-speed car will not provide enough of a jump to notice, and it will make the already vulnerable 10 bolt rear end even weaker. 6-speed cars are known for destroying the ring gears.
As for headers, you DO NOT need a tune. If the car idles like hell, kill it a few times, drive it around a bit, and it will be fine. A tune only MAXIMIZES the gain from full exhaust.
You will need O2 extensions for the O2 sensor's wiring harness to reach. Two 24" extensions will do the job perfectly.
I DO NOT recommend welding the headers to the y-pipe, nor the y-pipe to the I pipe. What will you do when that stuff needs to come off? A couple of 3" band clamps work awesome, and allow for removal.
Cutouts are a GREAT mod. They provide a sleeper like ability, and also allow for full power and great sound at the flick of a switch, its the best of both worlds.
Headers will not "mess anything up", except maby the competition.
Bumping up to 3.73's in a 6-speed car will not provide enough of a jump to notice, and it will make the already vulnerable 10 bolt rear end even weaker. 6-speed cars are known for destroying the ring gears.
As for headers, you DO NOT need a tune. If the car idles like hell, kill it a few times, drive it around a bit, and it will be fine. A tune only MAXIMIZES the gain from full exhaust.
You will need O2 extensions for the O2 sensor's wiring harness to reach. Two 24" extensions will do the job perfectly.
I DO NOT recommend welding the headers to the y-pipe, nor the y-pipe to the I pipe. What will you do when that stuff needs to come off? A couple of 3" band clamps work awesome, and allow for removal.
Cutouts are a GREAT mod. They provide a sleeper like ability, and also allow for full power and great sound at the flick of a switch, its the best of both worlds.
Headers will not "mess anything up", except maby the competition.
The geaing question needs its own post. 
My suggestion to you is do not touch the rear end untill you are replacing it with a 12-bolt/9" unit that's much stronger. If you bump up the gearing, go to 4.10's AT LEAST. The t-56/ls1 LOVES 4.10 gears. Only problem with this, is that you will have less traction. Sticky tires fix this problem, but also compound the problem of the weaker rear end.
My 10-bolt blew up on me one night after never driving it on anything but stock 245-50-r16 street tires. I replaced it with a moser 12 bolt with 4.11's and love it.
My suggestion to you is do not touch the rear end untill you are replacing it with a 12-bolt/9" unit that's much stronger. If you bump up the gearing, go to 4.10's AT LEAST. The t-56/ls1 LOVES 4.10 gears. Only problem with this, is that you will have less traction. Sticky tires fix this problem, but also compound the problem of the weaker rear end.
My 10-bolt blew up on me one night after never driving it on anything but stock 245-50-r16 street tires. I replaced it with a moser 12 bolt with 4.11's and love it.
Thanks, I will stick to just the Headers, ORY and Cutout then. I had already got the extensions and sims. Thanks for the info bout the welding. Never really thought about it that much. Just sounds sturdier. But I deff see where you are coming from. Guess I am kinda at a loss on what to do next for mods. I have shocks, springs, LCA's, Relocaton Brackets (weld in, bet you didnt see that coming) Panhard, Kept it cheap and simple with the custom exaust (flowmaster muffler) whisper lid. Any sugg??? Thanks again.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Southern UT
If you are looking for some more power and it looks like you have a decent amount of bolt ons and already going to do exhaust, get a cam. Of course you will probably want a tune for sure after doing a cam to get the best out of it. Some people go cam/heads and get upwards up 450ish rwph with mods simular to yours. Cam only from the 350-400 rwhp depending on the cam you get.
Word around the place is that Flowmaster is the worst flowing muffler for our cars. The 40 series is it? Don't quote me on that. If you want to keep it cheap but have a good sound look into Hooker Aerochamber catback. Great quality, great sound (SCREAMS at WOT but not too crazy at idle), and nice on the wallet.
Word around the place is that Flowmaster is the worst flowing muffler for our cars. The 40 series is it? Don't quote me on that. If you want to keep it cheap but have a good sound look into Hooker Aerochamber catback. Great quality, great sound (SCREAMS at WOT but not too crazy at idle), and nice on the wallet.
12 Second Club
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
From: las cruces, new mexico
[QUOTE=TheBlurLS1]
You will need O2 extensions for the O2 sensor's wiring harness to reach. Two 24" extensions will do the job perfectly.
QUOTE]
i used o2's from a ls1 vett Bosche part #13111 and they work great. no need for extensions.
if u get a off road y-pipe u will need o2 simulators for the rear o2s
You will need O2 extensions for the O2 sensor's wiring harness to reach. Two 24" extensions will do the job perfectly.
QUOTE]
i used o2's from a ls1 vett Bosche part #13111 and they work great. no need for extensions.
if u get a off road y-pipe u will need o2 simulators for the rear o2s
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11 Second Club
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 1
From: NE Ohio
Like above, just get the headers, ORY, and cut out. No need to get a tune but it will turn off the SES light and maximize the potential of your car. If you have other stuff planned (who doesn't) wait to get the tune.
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Originally Posted by 00formLs1
i used o2's from a ls1 vett Bosche part #13111 and they work great. no need for extensions.
if u get a off road y-pipe u will need o2 simulators for the rear o2s
if u get a off road y-pipe u will need o2 simulators for the rear o2s
O2 simulators suck.
Find a place who will tune out your rear O2 sensor codes, as well as the rest of the emmissions codes. Most places should do this for less than the cost of O2 sensors. 
I dont mean to hijack or anything but i am going to get pacesetters with a catted y this winter, and might not have enough money to get the cam and everything else i wanted. So if i dont get it tuned right away, will it affect gas milage alot? Or should i wait untill i have the cam to put the headers on? thanks-Jarett
Wait until you get the cam in. 
I have the exact setup that you're talking about and I DON'T like it!
The thing that I would change would be to go with a catted Y pipe rather than an ORY, the ORY is raspy as hell. Only at IDLE does it sound like it's supposed to, but anything over 2k RPM and it's RASP city.
I'm currently saving up for the TSP catted Y pipe and then I also plan on welding in a bullet muffler into my I-pipe.
The thing that I would change would be to go with a catted Y pipe rather than an ORY, the ORY is raspy as hell. Only at IDLE does it sound like it's supposed to, but anything over 2k RPM and it's RASP city.
I'm currently saving up for the TSP catted Y pipe and then I also plan on welding in a bullet muffler into my I-pipe.
From a different prospective, I really like my 3.73's. They were one of my best mods. I definately noticed a gain and have not had a problem with them. It gave me the feeling of adding more cubic inches. The 3.73's are stronger than 4.11's, and depending on how you drive and what kind of tires you run, may last quite awhile. I have heads/cam and my rear(knock on wood) has held up really well. All my friends have gears in their stock 10 bolt M6's without a problem....but then again none have sticky tires or let their cars wheel hop. I'd only do 3.73's in a 10 bolt, but anything more and you'll have to have sticky tires for sure, and your 10 bolt will suffer.
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 814
Likes: 0
From: NJ
ok now heres my wonder, if your gonna do headers and a cutout why are you putting a ORY shouldnt u just get the catted Y for everyday and the point of the cutout is to bypass the bullshit when u need it. i dunno where ur comin from but espececially if your in the bad emessions areas like nj and ****, id just get the catted Y
I am getting the cutout to bypass the muffler. I dont have the highest flowing muffler on the market. Was going to put it inbetween Y and I pipes. Emissions is of no concern to me (military and out of state tags=no emmisions. At least here anyway). I am not required to have it done. So on that note, I still feel like a noob sometimes but then again have never EVER been affraid to ask stupid questions. But in order to use a cutout to bypass the cats, wouldnt I have to have 2 cutouts and put them in front of the cats??
NEXT...Has anyone ever heard Pacesetters, ORY and the 50 series flowmaster (or something close) and then with the cutout open?? I am having trouble with the ls1sounds link... Thanks for all the input guys....keep it coming
NEXT...Has anyone ever heard Pacesetters, ORY and the 50 series flowmaster (or something close) and then with the cutout open?? I am having trouble with the ls1sounds link... Thanks for all the input guys....keep it coming