How to remove your PCV.

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Mar 15, 2010 | 10:48 PM

#121

Lawnboy

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thank you Duffster.

Details system includes: One Vented Breather catch can with two 3/8's barb intakes.
One PCV (non vented closed loop) catch can w/GN (anti crankcase boost) check valve and one double catch can mounting bracket.

Nov 10, 2011 | 01:10 AM

#122

lemons12

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From: Winchester, TN

How about an l76, aluminum 6.0, in an fbody? Best method?

Nov 14, 2011 | 05:31 PM

#123

LT1Formula007

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From: Indianapolis, IN

^^Agreed. I need info too.

heres my setup: 11.5:1 Compression Built LS3 Shortblock, Cathredral port style heads, and a FAST 102mm Intake and TB.
Stock Valve Covers, NA Engine/ Possibly Spray within a year or so...

I was thinking of going from drivers side valve cover with a 3/8" hose to a Y and from the Y to the Passenger side Valve cover, and from the other port at the Y, go to a PCV Valve, and then to the TB Port.
**Basically connecting both valve covers together.... and then to a PCV Valve, and then to the TB Port.

Then from the LS3 Valley Cover (which does have a pcv system in it) I was gonna take it into an unvented catch can, and back into the Intake port behind the TB.
Now I understand that will be putting oil back into the intake correct?, But it is a Street car. So theoretically thats what I would want! Right?

Now, If I wanted to vent the valve covers completely to atmosphere... Could I still run a line from the valley cover to a unvented catch can and back into the intake. Or would this cancel itself out b/c there no fresh air source from the valve covers?

I think I got the hang of this, but need some insight. I just wanna make sure I have a good seal on my rings with my new engine.

**I want info from knowledgeable people who have first hand experience with this. Not, Oh I did this.... and my car is fine! No Offense Please!
But I have alot of $ in my build and just want it done right!

Any info is greatly appreciated,

Thank You!
-James

Nov 15, 2011 | 08:48 PM

#124

BrntWS6

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From: Land of the FOID

After much research I went with the RX performance catch can because of the built-in check valve. It''s not cheap but after the amount of oil I saw in my FAST intake I didn't care.

Check this thread... https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...outing-ok.html a lot of great info with diagrams on how to route everything on page 4.

Nov 15, 2011 | 09:19 PM

#125

patSS/00

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From: AZ

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1BADTALS1

i have a question for you guys.. kinda related to this thred. i picked up a set of valve covers that do not have any fittings in them for the vaccum lines from what i saw on the stock ones there are 2 on the passanger side and one in the back on the driverside(just took a quick glance they are still on the car).

is it possable to just weld in 3 fittings on the covers and connect the factory hoses to them? or would my only other option be to get a ls6 vally cover??
any insite on this is MUCH appretiated. Thank you!

The stock ones have anti-splash covers on the inside under each fitting. You want those to stop as much oil as possible before it even gets to the catch can.

Nov 16, 2011 | 07:37 PM

#126

CLRD4TO

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From: Rosemount, MN

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrntWS6

Check this thread... https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...outing-ok.html a lot of great info with diagrams on how to route everything on page 4.

Whoa, after reading through my old posts again I can say now that pcv/no pcv is not tune critical with my cam only car. I learned to tune it myself and logged pcv connected vs capped intake with valve cover breather and didnt find any substantial changes. I run my car with the pcv connected (stock) for street driving. I then cap the intake and tb lines and run the v/c breather for nitrous at the track, which is only a couple times a summer. The intake is still oil free.

In regard to the link above, if you have a higher hp n/a motor and want to keep the pcv but minimize any oil in the intake, the dual can set up is the way to go. If you are running a pcv and your oil dipstick is being pushed up, the engine is making more pressure than what can vent through the pcv hoses. This is when you have to vent the engine better with vented catch cans.

Nov 16, 2011 | 07:59 PM

#127

CLRD4TO

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From: Rosemount, MN

Quote:

Originally Posted by LT1Formula007

I was thinking of going from drivers side valve cover with a 3/8" hose to a Y and from the Y to the Passenger side Valve cover, and from the other port at the Y, go to a PCV Valve, and then to the TB Port.
**Basically connecting both valve covers together.... and then to a PCV Valve, and then to the TB Port.

Then from the LS3 Valley Cover (which does have a pcv system in it) I was gonna take it into an unvented catch can, and back into the Intake port behind the TB.
Now I understand that will be putting oil back into the intake correct?, But it is a Street car. So theoretically thats what I would want! Right?

The pcv is in the wrong hoses, lucky if your car can even idle with what you described. The intake manifold port provides the vacuum to draw air (dirty side) out of the engine. With no pcv valve, thats a 3/8" hole in the intake vs a small orifice. The TB port (clean side) is just ambient fresh air, this air is drawn into the engine from the vacuum pulling it through the pcv valve.

The oil in the intake problem is at wide open throttle. There is no vacuum (technically there is but very little) on the intake side of the pcv, but the engine is making crankcase pressure from blow by. Now the dirty air is flowing through the clean air hoses and blowing an oil mist through the TB and then into the intake. For a street car this little amount of oil mist isnt a big deal but a motor that sees a lot of track time could use a catch can for the clean side hoses before the TB port.