Well, a few months ago, TSP had a good deal for the Powerbond Pulley, correct belts and crank bolt for a good price ($125?). I just checked their new website, and it looks like they now want almost $200 for just the pulley itself!

Since they're all (now) relatively the same price, what exactly is the highest QUALITY pulley?

Do any of you sponsors offer KITS that come with belts and crank bolt? If so - PM me a price. Us customers LOVE kits.

 

i have the march ud and i like it...i could tell minimal differences but a lot of people say that the march tends throw belts and can be a pain. personally ive had none of these problems and the install was smooth

 

That had to be an error on their site for 125?


The LS1 uses a balancer/pulley combination they would have been loosing money if they had sold them that cheap. I have never seen one for under 200.00 new any way.

 

My $.02: SLP or ASP.

 

there is a sticky somewhere that i read that says that they aren't worth the money. i'd talk to people that have done this and ask if there is a gain at all B/C the guy that i herd from said it was a newbie mistake and that he took them off B/C he was upset at himself for even getting them! but if you here different then i'd check the for sale section and see if you can pick one up there

 

A sticky that says pullies aren't worth the money?

I have always read that they are typically worth about one tenth and one mph. Why would he take it off?

 

Yeah, I agree, why would you take it off if you gained something by doing it.
I'm happy with mine(ASP) and know I gained by doing it...dyno proved it.

 

I have NEVER heard that from anyone, the ASP pulley is 25% lighter than the stock which means it will be easier for the engine to turn it, how could this possiblely not make more horsepower , not to mentioned help gas mileage a bit

 

I'm gonna be trying out my ASP next week, so I'm hoping for 10+ RWHP. Anything that will give one tenth and 1 mph at the end of the QM gains a vote from me.

 

I have ASP on my car and have no problems with it. Underdrive pullies extened the life of your accessories too

One company sells one with tall sides on the pulley, which helps keep it from throwing belts. I believe it's SLP? Someone correct me on this.

If you are taking your pulley off already, there is NO reason not to go back with an UD pulley (besides a few $$). I put it on when i did my camswap, so i cannot really account for any SOTP gain from it.

 

The 25% underdrive people talk about refers to the diameter of the pulley, i.e. if the stock pulley is 6" in diameter, the UD pulley is 4.5". This means that the accessories are spun at a slower rate, and in addition to that it is easier to turn. This is where the power comes from.

 

I have a stupidish question. If less power is being supplied to your accessories, does that mean your lights are slightly dimmer and radio slightly quietter?

 

oops my bad i meant smaller not lighter

 

No, unless your electrical system is maxed out (big stereo equipment etc.)

Theoretically, if you have a 25% underdrive pulley, you will only get 75% of the normal charge from your alternator. As long as you never actually used more than that to begin with, you'll be fine. These cars are designed to be able to idle forever, even with the lights on, and never have less input that output from the battery. This is at IDLE.

Once you are driving the car, and the engine is spinning faster, you have PLENTY of juice.

You can buy an OVERDRIVEN alternator pulley, which is actually SMALLER than stock. The smaller alternator pulley spins more times for the same amount of belt passing over it. This is really only needed if you have a higher than normal load on your electrical system.

 

That makes sense, always wondered about that. Thanks.

 

I think it was 777, but one of the mods here says that the alternator provides full charge at 650RPMs.

 

Good info in this thread here. So does anyone know the cheapest place to get an ASP kit or anything?

 

Couple guys headlights go dim at the stoplights. That's the only drawback I've heard. Mine is still sitting next to me here on the floor :/

 

i dunno i keep hearin bout power loss and blah blah blah,,, umm am i wrong in saying cant u just buy a higher amp alternator if that is the case, i know lots of guys are sayin that the alternator pushes what the car pulls at idle, but somone just said that some guys' lights dim when they stop, well wouldn't a HO alternator solve this problem???? eh just a thought

 

This was going to be one of my next mods, but .1 and 1mph seems to be around the error rate for equivalent runs. Am I wrong in this line of thought?