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View Poll Results: Should I do Polyurethane Engine Mounts?
YES
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Polyurethane Engine Mounts. Yes or No? Pros & Cons? (edit)

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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 09:43 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Now I'm thinking I should do the passenger side. Anyone have any write ups on the passenger side? I know you need to remove the starter, but why do people say you need to remove the A/C?
Because you won't be able to get the through bolt out...unbolting the A/C condenser is not tough though.
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 09:57 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by MeentSS02
Because you won't be able to get the through bolt out...unbolting the A/C condenser is not tough though.
Oh, so you can just unbolt it, and move it slightly out of the way. Gotcha.
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 10:08 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Oh, so you can just unbolt it, and move it slightly out of the way. Gotcha.
Yep...don't forget to look for the wire that is connected to it (it is small like the alternator weatherpack wire)...
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 01:42 PM
  #84  
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I did the pass side w/o touching the starter. Just unbolt the a/c condensor and bracket and you'll have plenty of room to work with.
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 01:56 PM
  #85  
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Just remove the starter...it's only two bolts. I even removed the header on that side, and wouldn't have done it any other way.
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 03:52 PM
  #86  
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im gonna install the poly mounts when im doing my headers
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 03:50 AM
  #87  
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God damn, I took at stab at the dr. side mount tonight and the 4 bolts that hold the mount to the block were tight as hell. I could only get enough leverage on 2 of the bolts to break them free. No way in hell were the other two coming loose. Is there anything else that needs to be removed on the dr. side other than the alternator to give more room??
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 08:09 AM
  #88  
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Unbolt the tranny mount and then put a jack on it and lift it ever so slightly so that it gives you enough room to get in and work. The bolts holding it to the motor are pretty tight, try and use a swivel ratchet to get some extra leverage.
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Old Apr 15, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Unbolt the tranny mount and then put a jack on it and lift it ever so slightly so that it gives you enough room to get in and work. The bolts holding it to the motor are pretty tight, try and use a swivel ratchet to get some extra leverage.
ahh alright I'll have to give that a shot next time.
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 01:03 AM
  #90  
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I got my car back yesterday from having the Prothane poly motor mounts put in at the place that does all my mod work. I ordered them because the stock mounts were not able to handle the torque of the engine after pacesetter LT's and catted Y pipe install. there was banging taking place when car was run at WOT. I had read on another thread that some people had used these mounts to stabalize the engine. I am here to testify that they were right. No more banging and everything feels much more stable under the hood. They are a bitch to mount, but worth the time, money and effort. Word to the wise, mount these before any header and Y pipe install. Will save you headaches, time and effort.
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 09:56 PM
  #91  
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Default Poly Motor Mounts in an A4

Digging up an old thread!

I would like some peoples opinions with how much vibrations there are with Poly motor mounts paired with rubber trans mount on an A4 LS1 F-Body.

If you do not have this set up or have driven a car with this set up please don't reply.

The reason I am thinking of doing mounts on my car is I am installing ARH Long Tubes and Y pipe and the car is 14 years old with the original engine mounts; though, it only has 13K miles.
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 10:31 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Norbit2
Digging up an old thread!

I would like some peoples opinions with how much vibrations there are with Poly motor mounts paired with rubber trans mount on an A4 LS1 F-Body.

If you do not have this set up or have driven a car with this set up please don't reply.

The reason I am thinking of doing mounts on my car is I am installing ARH Long Tubes and Y pipe and the car is 14 years old with the original engine mounts; though, it only has 13K miles.
I suggest asking (or searching) for this in the suspension section.
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 10:37 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Norbit2
Digging up an old thread!

I would like some peoples opinions with how much vibrations there are with Poly motor mounts paired with rubber trans mount on an A4 LS1 F-Body.

If you do not have this set up or have driven a car with this set up please don't reply.

The reason I am thinking of doing mounts on my car is I am installing ARH Long Tubes and Y pipe and the car is 14 years old with the original engine mounts; though, it only has 13K miles.
Whenever I had my WS6 (A4) I had Prothane motor mounts and an Energy Suspension transmission mount. The car was my daily driver, and I loved it. It felt great, throttle response felt awesome as nothing was slinging around, and I didn't really feel much vibration at all. I did not use the plate that came with the Energy Suspension mount as I heard it causes driveline vibrations.
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Norbit2
Digging up an old thread!

I would like some peoples opinions with how much vibrations there are with Poly motor mounts paired with rubber trans mount on an A4 LS1 F-Body.

If you do not have this set up or have driven a car with this set up please don't reply.

The reason I am thinking of doing mounts on my car is I am installing ARH Long Tubes and Y pipe and the car is 14 years old with the original engine mounts; though, it only has 13K miles.
Trust me, install poly mounts or your headers will be hitting the floor with anything more than part throttle in traffic. My car only had 25k on it and I had that problem. I was using pacesetters then.
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