SLP 85mm MAF, should i descreen?
It's possible you will skew the readings depending on
the intake tract. Most Camaro/Firebird folks seem to
not have a problem but every once in a while someone
finds a little ping.
Better yet would be to descreen it, remove the resistor
and throw a truck MAF table into the tune. The SLP
"calibration" is a hoax that they seem to think is "good
enough". Good enough to get your money, anyway.
the intake tract. Most Camaro/Firebird folks seem to
not have a problem but every once in a while someone
finds a little ping.
Better yet would be to descreen it, remove the resistor
and throw a truck MAF table into the tune. The SLP
"calibration" is a hoax that they seem to think is "good
enough". Good enough to get your money, anyway.
My guess is that if you really start to mod you car you will go back to the stocker unless you end up with a 90/90 set up.
Better yet would be to descreen it, remove the resistor
and throw a truck MAF table into the tune. The SLP
"calibration" is a hoax that they seem to think is "good
enough". Good enough to get your money, anyway.
and throw a truck MAF table into the tune. The SLP
"calibration" is a hoax that they seem to think is "good
enough". Good enough to get your money, anyway.
I just bought one to use with my FAST 90/90 and an EFI Live tune. Are you guys suggesting this was a mistake? Do I need to remove a resistor before I start tuning?
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Originally Posted by V8er
AND
What am I missing here? Why does the SLP 85mm have such a bad reputation
I just bought one to use with my FAST 90/90 and an EFI Live tune. Are you guys suggesting this was a mistake? Do I need to remove a resistor before I start tuning?
What am I missing here? Why does the SLP 85mm have such a bad reputation
I just bought one to use with my FAST 90/90 and an EFI Live tune. Are you guys suggesting this was a mistake? Do I need to remove a resistor before I start tuning?
like the very physically different stocker, in its calibration.
Yeah.
Even worse, the '98-'00 (SLP marketing) version has a resistor
that deliberately jacks it lean (the '01-'02, is closer).
In any case the messing around makes it neither a true stock
F-body MAF nor a true truck MAF so you have only a blind
guess at its real airflow per frequency, go ahead and work
from there.
I had one on my car and it seemed to be "OK" but I have been
running a descreened truck MAF with a truck table for a couple
of years now and it's all playing nicely. I have a nice straight
intake tract. My commanded AFR is what I get by the wideband.
Life is good.
The screen is a substantial restriction which only gets worse
at higher airflows. It's as bad as the stock lid, for pressure drop,
even at lower airflows. Are you still with the stock lid?
There are only two uses for the screen. One is to force an even
distribution of airflow. This is done by adding nonlinear drag to
the air, making it slump away from any regions where it would
be crowded. Nonlinear drag, oh, goody. The other use is to sift
out chunks larger than sand. That's a hygeine problem and it's
on you. These are your risks, take them or don't.
You want to know what you're leaving on the table? Log your MAP
reading across a pull and see what the difference is between 4000
RPM and 6000RPM (or wherever you shift). Here's the percentage
you're leaving on the table: (1-(MAP_6K/MAP_4K))*100%. That's
air slot, filter, lid, MAF, bellows and TB. Of which the bad boys are
stock lid, stock MAF and stock mis-adjusted TB cables / blade
& casting. I lose 2% at the front with stock heads & cam and an
OK exhaust, with all good stuff in the intake run. Check your
situation and see if you need to do better or leave it be.
Last edited by jimmyblue; Feb 15, 2006 at 08:39 AM.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 48
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Originally Posted by camaroextra
the put a screen there for a reason, and its not to keep leaves out.
Originally Posted by ss rally red
My guess is that if you really start to mod you car you will go back to the stocker unless you end up with a 90/90 set up.
No MAF for me
Originally Posted by ss rally red
My guess is that if you really start to mod you car you will go back to the stocker unless you end up with a 90/90 set up.
mods:
LME Forged 347*Wiseco –2cc Forged Nitrous Pistons*Callies Forged Rods*MJ2 Cam(232/240 .607/.608 112)*Comp Cams Hardened Push Rods*Isky Racing Valve Springs*Isky Racing Titanium Retainers*Stage 2 4.8L Heads*2.055/1.60 Ferrera Valves*Ported F.A.S.T. LSX 90mm Intake*F.A.S.T. 90mm Throttle Body*Custom Tuning by ???????*TSP 85mm Lid*SLP 85mm MAF*SLP Long Tube Headers*SLP Off-Road Y-Pipe*Dynomax Bullet Muffler*Rear O2 Sims*NOS 5177 Nitrous Kit*CAGS Delete*Moser 12 Bolt Rear End*33 Spline Axles*Eaton Posi Unit*Richmond 4.10 Gears*Polyurethane Sway Bar Mounts* BMR Torque Arm*BMR DS Loop*EGR Delete*Taylor 10.4 mm Plug Wires*A.I.R. Delete*RAM Powergrip HD Clutch*LS6 Master Cylinder*LS6 Slave Cylinder*Vented & Slotted Rotors*Hawk Brake Pads
Originally Posted by King James
Stank Killa SS, don't you run a dry N20 kit? If so, descreen. Otherwise don't bother.
Originally Posted by SouthernSilverSpeed
take the screen out, then take the MAF out of the car and put the sock one back on. Or get the Z06 MAF and go get it tuned.
Originally Posted by MONG00SE
Exactly. And IMO you don't need to touch the stock MAF or TB until you get into some serious modding (and I don't mean a stock displacement heads/cam or 6 psi FI ls1 either).
Just look at how fast people are going boefore you listen to their advise.
I'm running 11.0's with bolt ons and have my 85mm MAF descreened.
