HOW TO: Poly motor mount install
HOW TO: Poly motor mount install I installed a set of poly motor mounts on this guys car yesterday and don't see what everybody cries about. The whole job took about an hour and 45 min. it might have been about two hours but the guy already had the poly's in a spare set of clamshells. I took my time and was by no means rushing. So heres a step by step of how the install went.
*edit* remove air lid assembly.
remove alternator
unbolt A/C compressor and move it forward
remove A/C compressor pulleys bracket
remove the 18mm nuts on the two big motor mount bolts
remove the two bottom 13mm bolts on each motor mount
jack the motor up a biyt and pull out the two big 18mm bolts
jack the motor up as high as it will go (the intake will hit the cowl)
remove the top two 13mm bolts on eack mount
turn the mounts sideways against the motor and pull them out
put in new poly mounts
Now here it got a little tricky
i got all four bolts started on one motor mount but could only line up one bolt on the otheer side
So... i unbolted the tranny mount and pryed the motor forward a bit and could then start the rest of the bolts.
lowered the motor to where the boly mounts bolt holes lined up with the perches
put the two 18mm bolts in
lowered the motor all the way down
tighten all eight 13mm bolts and both 18mm bolts
reinstall alt, A/C bracket and A/C compressor.
*edit* remove air lid assembly.
remove alternator
unbolt A/C compressor and move it forward
remove A/C compressor pulleys bracket
remove the 18mm nuts on the two big motor mount bolts
remove the two bottom 13mm bolts on each motor mount
jack the motor up a biyt and pull out the two big 18mm bolts
jack the motor up as high as it will go (the intake will hit the cowl)
remove the top two 13mm bolts on eack mount
turn the mounts sideways against the motor and pull them out
put in new poly mounts
Now here it got a little tricky
i got all four bolts started on one motor mount but could only line up one bolt on the otheer side
So... i unbolted the tranny mount and pryed the motor forward a bit and could then start the rest of the bolts.
lowered the motor to where the boly mounts bolt holes lined up with the perches
put the two 18mm bolts in
lowered the motor all the way down
tighten all eight 13mm bolts and both 18mm bolts
reinstall alt, A/C bracket and A/C compressor.
Last edited by SUX2BU; Mar 15, 2006 at 10:28 PM.
I said the same thing a year ago when I did mine.I also am wondering why it's made to be so difficult when its not.I guess alot has to do with where your doing it and what kind of tools you have as well.
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Nice write up but, you were not the one who split the clamshells and put the bushings in them so, of course it's going to seem a little easier than everyone else makes it out to be.
To do that part you need to drill(chordless better have some spare batteries charged and ready) out the 4 big a$$ 3/8" solid steel rivets. If you have a vise and a heavy duty drill it helps. The vise will help squeeze the the clamshell onto the mounts, and hold it while the bolts that replace the rivets go on.
Just my 2 cents.
To do that part you need to drill(chordless better have some spare batteries charged and ready) out the 4 big a$$ 3/8" solid steel rivets. If you have a vise and a heavy duty drill it helps. The vise will help squeeze the the clamshell onto the mounts, and hold it while the bolts that replace the rivets go on.
Just my 2 cents.
Originally Posted by thunderdan74
Nice write up but, you were not the one who split the clamshells and put the bushings in them so, of course it's going to seem a little easier than everyone else makes it out to be.
To do that part you need to drill(chordless better have some spare batteries charged and ready) out the 4 big a$$ 3/8" solid steel rivets. If you have a vise and a heavy duty drill it helps. The vise will help squeeze the the clamshell onto the mounts, and hold it while the bolts that replace the rivets go on.
Just my 2 cents.
To do that part you need to drill(chordless better have some spare batteries charged and ready) out the 4 big a$$ 3/8" solid steel rivets. If you have a vise and a heavy duty drill it helps. The vise will help squeeze the the clamshell onto the mounts, and hold it while the bolts that replace the rivets go on.
Just my 2 cents.
I didn't drill the rivets out i grinded the heads off and knocked them out it 100 times faster.
Originally Posted by tc3
Did you do this on a lift or on ramps...?
The car had Mac midlengths. if you do them at the same time as a header swap it would be ALOT easier.
This car was an auto so the stock tranny lines kinda got in the way a little.
This car was an auto so the stock tranny lines kinda got in the way a little.
I tried to do mine this past weekend and had a hell of a time because of my LT's. I could reach the top 13mm bolt on the top side of the driver side mount. I had never had a car get the best of me but it was getting late and didnt feel like messing with it any longer so I put everything back together. That is a good idea though to get an extra set of clam shells to have the mounts already prepped for the install. I am going to try again once I do the cam install. I will have more time then..... 
i did mine in about 2.5 hours. then again my exhaust was off and i just took the whole mount out of the car, one side at a time. didn't unbolt the ac or alternator. i was expecting it to take all day
mine took about as long as SUX2 said, and mine was done with Pacesetters already on the car it's not a hard job if you take your time. I actually cut the rivit heads off w/cutoff wheel piece of cake, SUX you forgot to tell them to undo the MAF from the TB exspecially if they have the fernco mod as they COULD break their lid when they jack up the motor.
Originally Posted by 4.6gt-2-ls1ta
mine took about as long as SUX2 said, and mine was done with Pacesetters already on the car .......
How did you reach the top bolts on the driverside mount????
BLKBIRD I just used my sockets and swivel to get to them once you unbolt the heatsheild you can see the bolts better. FREAKY they benefit by not letting the motor torque over, therefore stops the banging of the y-pipe and also makes the car feel more solid. A very worthwhile mod in my opinion.