msce2b-dustin

yep......mac headers plus a loud exhuast aren't the most pleseant sounding things in the world. But their well worth the money.

TTA89

Well I need to bring the car up to the power level its supposed to be before I add anything else to it. THis car just doesnt respond to anything I do to it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />

Went New England Dyno and Tuning Yesterday <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

First run was 310 with about 11.8/1 A/F. I went 2% lean on the MAFT and got 314, then 4% and went 318 and was around 12.8/1. Tried 6% lost 2hp. Best run was 318/333. <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />

Its pretty embarassing when cars with a catback and lid are putting down more power and running more mph at the track... sigh

Mods are Direct Flo Lid, Shaners S2 TB, !FRA, !EGR, 160 thermo, Fan switch, TB bypass, TR55s@.55, Mac Headers with ORY and 02 sims, MAFT, Im still running Stock exhaust but with a Big Hole drilled in the side of the muffler <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

I know there is more power left, Im getting a constant 2-3 degrees of Knock through the gears, the right 02 bank is like .40 leaner than the right side, the timing was only 18-22 through all the frames on Autotap.

Im pretty sure the Y-pipe is hitting the floor on the drivers side causing false knock, Im hoping its thowing the car into the low timing table and thats why Im so off on power. Going to try and Re-adjust the Y-pipe tomorrow.

Man out of all the stuff I read about Mac headers I didnt see anyone say it hit the steering linkage or the Y-pipe hits the floor cause mine does!

318hp... If after we fix the Y-pipe and get rid of the false knock if the power isnt over 330 Im selling this POS and buying a Grand National, The V6s are way easier to make power with than these things <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_tounge.gif" />

H82BBad

your front drivers side header pipe is hitting on the steering rod flange.

TanRchy

hey TTA89 u wanna sell ur car? sounds like u want a civic. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ill take it off ur hands for $15k.

TTA89

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by H82BBad:
<strong>your front drivers side header pipe is hitting on the steering rod flange.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yep.. Ground down the flange on Friday and the steering issue was fixed <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

The Y-pipe is still hitting the floor, when you start the car you can hear it and if you turn a corner and give it some gas you can hear it. Im going to let a friend of mine take it to work and put it on a lift and pull the Y-pipe off and try and adjust it.

Then Ill reset the computer and see if the timing comes back and knock goes away. If not.... Im going to buy a box of matches and some lighter fluid. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

TTA89

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by TanRchy:
<strong>hey TTA89 u wanna sell ur car? sounds like u want a civic. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ill take it off ur hands for $15k.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Come get it, Done deal. I'll even have it washed, waxed and filled with Gas when you get here. <img border="0" alt="[pimp]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_pimp.gif" />

<small>[ June 16, 2002, 04:04 PM: Message edited by: TTA89 ]</small>

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

On your MAFT adjustments,did you adjust the base at all?3 deg. knock ussually won't drop the HP that much.If the Base is too lean,then that will drop the HP across the board.

TTA89

No, I ran it without the translator for 2 runs, then put it on with the base at 0, 2% rich, then 4 then 6.

The A/F was where it was supposed to be, adjusting the base at that point would have thrown the numbers off I would think.

The timing wasnt just 3 degrees off, it was at 18-20 with the retard, which still only puts it at 21-23 degrees. A far cry from ~27 where its supposed to be.

Well see what happens after the Y-pipe banging crap is fixed.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

To get the #'s out of your setup,you'll have to set up the MAFT.Just plugging it in without atleast 100 miles run time won't help much.Going by the wat you were adding fuel,I would set the MAFT base to 5% rich and go from there.Don't under estimate the power of tuning with a MAFT.I picked up 25 hp almost the same way you are doing it.I went to the Dyno without it plugged in.Got 315 hp and pluged the MAFT in and only got another 5hp.Spent the week after tuning the Base in and went back and got another 25hp with the base setup.

TTA89

Opps I typed it wrong, I meant I went -2% then -4% then -6%

With the headers its rich, I had the A/F right on at WOT after -4%. Part throttle might be off but I wanted to see what would happen if I leaned it out at WOT.

I took it back off, going to reset the computer tomorrow after the Y-pipe is fixed let it learn and then start playing with the MAFT.

BillS

iTrader: (13)

Two ways to cut the banging
one is a torque strap, all the GN's run one. a simple ratchet tie down strap will do.
The second is to lossen all the y-pipe bolts. then pull down on it while someone else tightens the bolts. this gains some space.

TTA89

Readjusted the Y-pipe, looks to be ok now. Put a band clamp over the collector connection, that was only leaking a little (read sarcasm)

Should be ok.. Reset the computer, Set the MAFT to -10% lean and well see later on tonight if the timing is back where it should be after I put some miles on the computer.

The Guy in MY 99TA

You might want to try a Dynomax Super Turbo. Thats what I have in my Stock Cat-back and it is a little louder than the SLP dual dual but NOT MUCH at all. I like the sound of it alot better. It seems to have a deeper tone to me. I love it. I just wish I would have baught the cat-back now. I am going with some Hooker Long Tubes in the next couple of weeks and I hope to make this thing ALOT louder!

Josh S.

TTA89

On the Base, Went +5 then +10 then +15 and now the LTERMS are -2 to 0 in typical driving around.

02s are around 930ish to 940ish at WOT, the Dyno showed this to be 12.8 A/F. Timing is up around 23-24 but still not where it should be I think.

Still getting a little Knock Retard... Race Gas time to see if this is real or false.

Then off to the track to play with WOT and see what the car likes.