SLP - LS1 radiator???
I hear it is just a LT1-F body radiator repackaged? and pluged off?
how much bigger is it and how much cooler will my car run?
I agree. If there isn't anything wrong with your radiator and you just want your car to run cooler, I'd just tune the fans to come on earlier. The stock radiator works well and should be plenty for most cars. From my experience, you can keep the car as cool as you want by just changing the fan set points. I don't think I'd even bother with a thermostat. I have a 180, but it responds almost like the stock one does, and I can keep the temp where I want it by altering the fan set points. If I had to do it again, I would have stayed with the stock t-stat and not wasted my money on the 180.
thank you
It is just a thicker core within the area of the end tanks.
I installed mine when I installed my blower so I really don't know if it was needed, did it precautionary at the time. Have seen some higher temps on hot days in stop and go traffic. But now that I have installed a water temp gauge, knowing the stock was not accurate. I see that it was not running as hot as I thought.
Bill
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I heard it has more cores (about 9 more), not that the cores are wider,
If they are wider can someone please measure how wide they are
thank you
When you read the comments you have to compare apples to apples. I never overheated until I installed the ATI. And I did all of the above in addition to having a Meziere electric water pump to correct boiling and still had overheating.
Most with overheating replace the single fan with dual SPAL 11s or one single Spal Extreme. The Extreme puts out 3000 cfm compared to the ATI which probably is in the 2200 cfm range which is less than the two stock dual fans.
I replaced the ATI with a single SPAL Extreme and a 10 inch Spal, but it will still jump to 210 in stop and go traffic when the AC is on during 95 degree summer days in Kansas.
A 160 thermostat won't do any good if you are constantly running at 190 and you will never stay at 160 in stop and go traffic. Once the thermostat opens at 160, it will just get hotter and hotter. I run a 180 with the Meziere and noted no difference between it and a 160.
As for the SPL LT1, I recall it was stated on another thread that the radiator is thicker with more tubes, supposedly because the LT1 was an iron block which run hotter, therefore the necessity for a larger radiator.
This summer I will put a puller fan on the AC radiator to aid in keep it cooler. It's the AC that superheats the air because it is drawn directly through the front of the radiator. Turn the AC off and the temps will drop.
Another suggestion is to vent the air from the bypass valve rather than recirculating it the way ATI does. At idle or low speeds the air just recirculates and raises the intake charge. The higher the intake temps the hotter the motor will run.
Lastly, make sure the bottom grilles on your radiator are clean on the bottom. The local ATI installer said most LS1's he sees on ATI installs are plugged with dirt on bottom reducing cooling capacity by at least 10 percent.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Mar 22, 2006 at 01:04 AM.
If you look at your stock rad where the core meets the end tanks you will notice that it does not go completely to the ends of the end tanks - leaves a space. The core on the SLP/LT1 version is as wide as the end tanks.
Thank you
So with these wider cores the radiator must be able to cool down the coolent much better,
I remember my 97 SS LT1 camaro never ran hot, I did have a 160 stat and the fans programed to come on sooner , and 2-3 bottles of water wetter in it ,But i also have all of this in my 01 SS too, all of this defently helped , but i think i will still install a SLP/LT1 Radiator,
can someone still tell me if the SLP radiator does have more cores also , i rember someone telling me the SLP has also 9 more cores.
If you look at your stock rad where the core meets the end tanks you will notice that it does not go completely to the ends of the end tanks - leaves a space. The core on the SLP/LT1 version is as wide as the end tanks.
The guy that makes custom rads for my cars also stated that Dexcool is definitely junk to run in these aluminum rads. He said that he gets tons of customers in all the time with blockage issues. When he flushes/cleans the rads he finds that the Dexcool leaves a soft chalky buildup in the tubes - it is not a hard deposit and can be flushed out completely - but it is still a PITA to have to bring them in periodically to remove the blockage.
One of the reasons I have just recently switched over to Evans NPG-R fluid...
Gary
I can call tomorrow - just wondered if perhaps you knew?







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