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Finished up Catch Can install WOW(pic)

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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 02:12 PM
  #41  
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You could also extend the length of the lines to and from the catch can. My can is mounted on the air pump bracket and has about 6 ft of line between it and the intake. The added length gives the oil vapor more time to cool and fall out of the air running through the hose.

FWIW, I originally went with the CH mounted near the passenger side head. I used clear hose to connect it to the pcv system. The hose before the CH can quickly became coated with oil, the hose after the CH can remained perfectly clean. I had it installed this way for about 6 months before I switched cans and locations for a cleaner engine compartment.
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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did same as above!!!
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Old Jul 12, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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intake side tube stays BONE dry, so does the hose nipple tube. completely dry. it aint goin in the motor. a pluged/saturated filter is emiterial. the filter is on the EXIT side.

Originally Posted by sscam68
lol, the reason the level stays the same is because it's being sucked into the intake. It's not catching any more oil, the filter is saturated.

Like I said, been there done that .

I did the LS6 valley cover and the AMW catch can. The only difference between the AMW setup and the CH is the AMW has more capacity. You're going to have to buy new filters for the CH like every 400mi. The AMW works great, I even added some more steel wool to catch more.

Doesn't matter though, even with all that done the engine is still sucking in oil. Not nearly as much, but it's still there.

The best solution is to just vent it to the atmosphere.
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Old Jul 13, 2006 | 10:35 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS 2
intake side tube stays BONE dry, so does the hose nipple tube. completely dry. it aint goin in the motor. a pluged/saturated filter is emiterial. the filter is on the EXIT side.

Like I also said in my original post, the tube between the "catchcan" and the TB stays bone dry. So the oil level is not staying the same "because it's being sucked into the intake" as you say sscam68, lol. It's a logical assumption but it's not true. I'm sure a trivial amount of oil vapor is being sucked in but it's not enough to leave an oil slick. I'm just happy it's catching a large portion of the oil vapor.

However, like you said, venting to the atmosphere is the only way to keep 100% of the oil vapors out of the intake tract. One downside to this is that your oil will get dirty alot quicker. If you're one of those 3k mile oil change people then that's a moot point. Another downside is that you don't create any kind of vacuum in the crankcase with an open atmosphere setup. Unless you're running an all out race motor I don't think that this really matters. Nonetheless, those are just a couple of downsides to running open atmosphere.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 03:14 AM
  #45  
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awsome setup and helpful advice..... where did you find the braided hose?
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 08:07 AM
  #46  
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left over peice from a freind doing his oil/fuel lines
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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 08:58 AM
  #47  
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I didn't read through this whole thread but if you didn't already make sure you remove the stone filter in the "can".
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 05:09 AM
  #48  
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stone filter?
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 06:56 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by kebie05
stone filter?
Yeah, it looks like he left it in, can't tell for sure though. It's used to catch the moisture since these catch cans are used for air compressora. Leaving the filter in allows very little oil to be caught.
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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Here's a good reference picture.

See the white, stone filter below the cap...remove that.


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100027474
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 09:04 AM
  #51  
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I would like to add something here. I have not done anything to my PVC system yet, because I'm still thinking about it. When I had my car tuned the tuner had to take some final advance out of the car because it was starting to knock. He was only able to add some advance but not all that he wanted to. When I asked him what he thought was causing the problem he said it might be the oil going into the intake was causing the gas to lose or lower some of combustion characteristics ( just like using a lower octaine rating) which equals lower power. I love the way my car feels, but he believes there is more in it, so do I. Even if it is a small amount of power I want it all, so do you. That's why we do small stuff that accumulatively builds power. Port and polish the T/B, De-screened MAF, T/B by-pass, Lower car weight by 150lbs
O/R Y pipe ( my car is a vette) Ram air if possible. It all counts. So if what I was told is correct then oil vapor is lowering the octaine rating of the best gas we are using, there by causing us to make less overall power. He recomended plugging all the vacuum lines and running a breather on the valve cover. If I am wrong than I know someone who understands tuning dynamics will chime in.
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Old Sep 3, 2007 | 11:38 PM
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Nice.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 12:02 AM
  #53  
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so are there step by step instructions on how to build your own catch can? because I need to do this and will have some time to do it...
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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The amount of oil going into the intake is so tiny it shouldn't effect the timing. Well maybe, if you use a quart of oil every gas fill up, but I doubt that. The whole point of the positive crankcase ventilation system is to prevent the blowby gasses in the crankcase from building excess pressure and pushing oil out of the engine as well as keep that unburnt fuel from the atmosphere. If you just replace it with small filters and plug the line you might get oil leakage and maybe reduced performance. The build up of gasses in the crankcase will add a small amount of pressure which makes it harder for the pistons to move downward. If you look at the serious drag racers you'll see a lot of cars running crankcase evacuation pumps to get that last bit of performance.

Back in the 50's and 60's they used to run a rubber line from the oil fill tube down to under the car. That way the blowby gases (and a small amount of oil) would get sucked out while cruising due to the airflow under the car creating a weak vacuum affect at the end of the rubber line. Obviously it was bad for the environment.

Originally the PVC system on a V8 would pull clean air from a msmall filter, go into the valve cover on one side, across the crankcase to the other side and out that valve cover, into the PCV valve and into the intake. With the LS1 it seems a bit different. They don't have the air inlet. It seems it just sucks the blowby gasses out.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 10:37 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Grifter
Here's a good reference picture.

See the white, stone filter below the cap...remove that.


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100027474
If you take the stone filter out then what will act as the separator to remove the oil from the vapor?
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by waveoff
If you take the stone filter out then what will act as the separator to remove the oil from the vapor?
Gravity.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 11:23 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Gravity.
Pretty much. If you let the oil sit for awhile you'll see it get milky. The stone filter isn't doing anything in these setups but providing a huge restriction for the oil to get caught. I had a turbo car for years wth this setup, without the stone filter, it worked great.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Also keep in mind that as the gas goes from the small diameter hose to the larger container the velocity drops which helps the oil particles to fall down. The lighter gas is easily sucked through. Still, this air compressor filter is going to allow some oil through. It's not perfect.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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serious drag racers will vent the valve covers down to the header collectors. The headers have provisions for a venturi tube, and the exhaust escaping the collectors causes a vacuum effect and thus pulls out the crank case gasses.

What I run on the Z28 is an e-bay special chromed out catch can and then the pcv valve is after it. I dont think it will matter if the PCV valve is before or after the can. What I have noticed is that in alot of the larger cans, the fittings BOTH terminate at the top near each other. Ideally you want the inlet side to terminate toward the bottom (with a small hose internally running to the bottom like a liquid soap dispenser) and the outlet terminated at the top. This will deposit the oil at the bottom of the can, and then air will then travel back up to the top and out, leaving the oil behind.
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Old Sep 4, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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I wonder if you could run some water at the bottom and have the inlet tube go into it and then have the outlet way at the top? Would the vacuum be able to pull the gas through? I'm not sure. If it can then the gas bubbles would go through and the oil would be trapped with the water. I don't know, just a thought.

I always liked the maze design that forces the gas to zig zag around while the oil gets deposited on all the maze walls and runs down to the bottom.
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