Seems pretty straigh forward.. pull the coil packs.. move to the side.. unbolt the valve covers (im painting them).. then do it all in reverse..

As far as I know the gaskets are reusable.. and tips for getting them back on without leaks? Also, anyone know the torque spec for tightening down the covers? any pattern?

Thanks in advance <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

35 ft/lbs I believe.

I dont see how you could mess it up to tell you the truth <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by sweetTA:
<strong>35 ft/lbs I believe.

I dont see how you could mess it up to tell you the truth <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Trust me.. i COULD find a way <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Just looking for things like "be carefull not to break the oil tube off when changing the intake manifold" sort of hints..

 

You can have the valve covers and coil pacs off in about 20-30 minutes. The first time is a PITA because of the back coil pack bolt. (You'll see <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> ), but I left it off, and now its a 5-10 min job per side. As far as possible problems, the only problem I've ever had was the valve cover seal/gaket appears to be too big for the valve cover, and it won't hardly stay in the valve over if it ever gets pulled out or knocked out. Be careful with the gasket, and its a pretty simple job. You won't be able to move the coil packs to the side, you'll have to unplug them and completely remove them, no biggie. Good luck, Shawn

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

<small>[ August 13, 2002, 02:38 PM: Message edited by: SPANKY LS1 ]</small>

 

I recommend removing the A.I.R. pipes so that you can move that hose out of the way. These are mounted to the headers by two 10mm bolts each. This is where the 3/8" drive sockets, extensions, and swivels help alot.

The next step is to remove the coil packs. First pull the park plug wires off the coil packs (you can
leave them hanging on the plugs for now) Each coil pack is held on by five 10mm bolts. These bolts
have threads on the top of them, and are staggered across the coil pack brace. There is also one
connection per side that needs to be disconnected. It is the large connector in the middle of each
brace. Pull the blue locking tab out, and unhook the connector. The entire coil pack assembly should now come free and slide out. Be careful on the driver's side as you will have to negotiate around the fuel lines.

The passenger side is easier to remove once you get the bolts free. The hardest one is the furthest back on that side. You can't see it, and will have to feel around for it. Use the closed side of a 10mm crescent wrench to keep your tool on it. I came at it from the top, reaching over the intake manifold and then around the back of the fuel rail. It only allowed for about 1/8th of a turn of my wrench. This took a while, but eventually you can start turning it with your fingers.

Now that you have the coil packs off, you can see the four bolts that hold the valve covers on. These are 8mm bolts and should back out quite easily. They will stay connected to the valve covers, so don't worry about trying to remove them.

Re-Install
( u can use stock gaskets if they are rubber and
in good shape ).
Replace valve covers. Be sure to connect the two hoses on the passenger side, and the single hose on the back of the driver side cover. Tighten the four 8mm bolts on each side to 106 lb-in (8.83 lb-ft).

Replace the coil packs. Five 10mm bolts on each side. Connect the electrical connector on each side.
Replace the spark plug wires.
Reconnect the A.I.R. pipes to the hose (the hose sits into two clamps around the back of the engine)
and bolt the pipes back into the headers. Remember to use new gaskets here, as well.

That should do it..
re-install anything else you took off, intake ect.

 

Wow, thanks guys for the detailed instruction.. fortunatly I left the "coil pack bolt from hell" off the car when I installed my headers so I dont have to mess with it again <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Looks like I have a project to do today.. lol

Hmmm.. while im there I should replace my pushrods.. lol

Does it ever end? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Thanks Again

 

If the gaskets come out you need new ones, they expand rapidly. I don't believe in the solution of some, which is to cut the gasket and shorten it if it comes out. I powdercoated some valve covers a few year ago.

 

--Remove AIR system
--Remove EGR system
--Relocate coil packs under the cowl
--Cut and install new plug wires
--Shave the valve covers and polish or paint.

Change plugs in less than 20 minutes with no cuts/scratches. It was worth the trouble. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

do you have any pics of this brotherJ? I've been wanting to shave and polish up my valve covers for a long time, but i never knew if it was possible. How do you relocate the coils? can you just move them? thanks

Ryan

 

INSTALL UNIVERSITY .COM HAS ALL KINDS OF TIPS <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

 

here's some pics of what i did
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/slapsht25/30th%20page.htm

Jay

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 1FAST98Z:
<strong>do you have any pics of this brotherJ? I've been wanting to shave and polish up my valve covers for a long time, but i never knew if it was possible. How do you relocate the coils? can you just move them? thanks

Ryan</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sent you 2 pics. Here's a link for relocating the coils:

http://www.geocities.com/mulot30th/C...Relocation.htm