Farmer2

iTrader: (168)

Those of you that have or have'nt changed the plugs in your LS1 heres the procedure that worked for me. I wrote it all down so I could post it since there is always someone asking about how to get to that pesky #8.

The tools you will need are:
- Swivel Ratchet 3/8
- Fixed Ratchet 3/8
- Swivel Extension 3/8
- Extensions adding up to 8" (I used 4 2")
- 1 1" extension
- 1 10mm socket
- 1 5/8 plug socket
- Antiseize
- Diaelectric Grease
- Plug Gapper

If you still have the factory piece oh sh*t plugs in get rid of them!!
All but 2 plugs had the platinum disks removed from the electrode, which means they were gapped at .075 to .080
I used NGK TR55's to replace the factory ones.

Heres what I did:
Remove the rubber hoses off the air tubes where they meet the check valves.
Then remove the air tube bolts on both sides and remove the air tubes out of the engine bay.(Careful not to hurt the gasket, you can reuse with no problem)

Remove all the plug wires from coils and plugs
and dielectric grease the insides of the boot and the contacts.

As you remove the old plugs gap the new ones(I set mine for .056) The rule here is to remove .004 from the gap for every 50 HP you add to the motor.
then make sure you put the antiseize on the threads of the plugs. start about 1 thread from the end to be safe. Do not get any on the electrode parts or anything that comes in contact with the cumbustion chamber (pre ignition will occur)

Starting on the drivers side this was my combo:
#1 and #3 swivel ratchet with 1" extension.
#5 swivel ratchet with 2" extension.
#7 swivel ratchet with 2" extension and swivel extension, swivel should be closest to plug socket.

On the passenger side this was the combo:
#2 and #4 swivel ratchet with 2" extension.
#6 fixed ratchet with 1" extension.
#8 swivel ratchet mounted right to the plug socket.

The only one I had to get from underneith was #8.
All the other plugs were gotten from the top without removing any coil packs or other parts, and I had a BMR STB in place too.

The spark plug wires can be put back on now.

Then put antiseize on the gasket area on the air tube and the bolts. Install both of those and hook up the rubber hoses.

This procedure was done on a 2000 WS6 + 6
The same is for a 1998 Trans Am A4

Take your time and if your arm/hand dont fit try another position.
It took me about an hour to do the job.

Dave

I have a pic of two plugs as they came out, one of them has the platinum disk and one does'nt.
<img src="http://66.93.54.197/images/pictures/Daves/SparkPlugs/PlugDiskMissing.jpg" alt=" - " />

<small>[ November 03, 2002, 07:29 PM: Message edited by: Farmer2 ]</small>

unit213

Thanks for the write up. I did my driver's side plugs two weeks ago. I started to do the passenger side but I got frustrated and I gave up. I have a '00 Z28 and the passenger side is all cluttered up with AIR hoses and AC sh*t. I think I can get #2 and #4 without too much difficulty. Plugs 6 and 8 are a problem for me. I followed installuniversity.com's instructions. They say to remove the coil pack bolts and move them up and out of the way. I was able to remove 3 of the 4 bolts. There is one WAY in the back that I can't get to. I didn't try to get it from underneath. That should be my next step. I guess I'll try the passenger side next weekend. Do you have any suggestions? Also, how high did you have to get the car up? Did you use ramps or jack stands?

Thanks.

Dan

Oh, BTW...I'm putting in TR6's for my NX wet kit that's going on soon.

Farmer2

iTrader: (168)

I used ramps and you shouldnt have to touch the coil packs. #8 from under was the easiest on eout of them all!
#6 get from the top go under the throttle cables and snake your arm down along the valve cover, you will see.
Just take it one step at a time and you will be a pro.

jmX

I guess I'm just lucky to have skinny arms because I've never had any trouble doing all 8 plugs from the top. No swivels needed. My tool list was:
-Spark plug socket
-Socket wrench
-1" extension

That was enough to get em all outta there quickly. I did remove the coil packs tho, since its really simple and gives you a lot more room.

unit213

jmx

You thought it was easy removing the coil packs? I couldn't reach the back bolt. Too much weightlifting I guess...big forearms.

Farmer2

You've give me new motivation. I'll give it a shot this Friday. I will be buying ramps too. My car slipped off my jack today. The rear wheels were about 4 inches off the ground. It scared the **** out of me. Fortunately, I didn't get hurt. My exhaust tips hit my ear...just a scrape.

I'd love to hear more suggestions if anyone has any. Sorry Farmer2...not trying to steal your post.

98blackSS

Boy I remember those days.. With headers and no air crap anymore, it sure makes changing plugs a breeze. Good writeup.

Farmer2

iTrader: (168)

Thanks guys!
I'm just trying to help and do my part to make these lS1's a joy to work on <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

<small>[ November 03, 2002, 08:30 PM: Message edited by: Farmer2 ]</small>

LS1x2

iTrader: (11)

It's pretty quick and easy for me. Here's all the tools I use:
3/8" ratchet
short 3/8" extension
1 deep 5/8" socket with rubber grip inside it
1 "" w/o rubber
Only things I remove are the air pump hose and coil bracket on the passenger side for #8. Took me about 40 minutes the other day not rushing.

highgear

You cannot remove #8 from underneath on a '98 with stock headers but thanks for the other info.

al

Great post. I will print this one up for future use.

Hardtop

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by camaro_ls1:
<strong>jmx

You thought it was easy removing the coil packs? I couldn't reach the back bolt. Too much weightlifting I guess...big forearms.

Farmer2

You've give me new motivation. I'll give it a shot this Friday. I will be buying ramps too. My car slipped off my jack today. The rear wheels were about 4 inches off the ground. It scared the **** out of me. Fortunately, I didn't get hurt. My exhaust tips hit my ear...just a scrape.

I'd love to hear more suggestions if anyone has any. Sorry Farmer2...not trying to steal your post.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Tell you what, after you remove the back coil pack bolts, get rid of them. That's what I did. The other bolts will hold them in place fine and you won't have to fight the backs again.

Bruce

Farmer2

iTrader: (168)

Someone here, I think, had a write up on taking the coil packs and mounting them on the firewall in the center on a nice neat rack. If I find it I'll post its origan.
They were nice and tucked out of the way and he then made custom plug wires that went from coils to plugs.

Thanks on the comments guys!
If we all share our ideas we'll have nice running and looking rides.

Dave

Brother J

It takes only 15 minutes for a plug change when you already have the coil packs mounted under the cowl by the firewall. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Farmer2

iTrader: (168)

Here is the link for the cowl mounted coils:
Cowl mounted coils Link

Does anyone have the link or the completion for the custom plug wire install?

Dave