quickWS6

After I put on my Hooker longtubes, there is a ticking noise coming from the driver side. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from though. The car will also drop to 250-300 RPM when coming to a stop sign at times. Any ideas?

Darkhalf

iTrader: (1)

Have you reset the PCM? Generally when you reset the PCM after a header install(to get rid of the SES light, if you have one) the computer is trying to relearn everything it will take awhile before it starts to idle right. Most generally 20 miles or so, or 2-4 starting cycles.

As far as the ticking I'm guessing that is your check valves. Did you install the AIR tubes on to the headers or did you remove them? If you did install them you are getting a fluttering/ticking noise because of too much air being sucked through the valves causing them to burn up.
To fix this problem you need to do the AIR Restrictor Mod. Do a search on here or LS1.com and you will be able to see what you need in order to do it.

quickWS6

Thanks for the tips, but neither of those is the problem. I reset the PCM over 300 miles ago. I have removed the entire AIR system. Any other ideas?

DreamWeaver

Hummm burnt wire arcing or wire not plugged on the spark plug good?

<small>[ November 05, 2002, 12:48 AM: Message edited by: Renegade ]</small>

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

Quick WS6: This is just a shot in the dark but some of my friends have headers and a few of them have this noise as well. After talking to a few people, they say it is normal. The headers are louder than the manifolds in the sense that they always sound like they are leaking. They are flowing much more air, therefore the sounds you normally wouldn't hear are amplified.
I've been thinking about going with the Hookers myself. How do you like them? Quality, fit and finish? Were they a pain in the *** to install? Most importantly, do they hang down far? They are supposed to tuck up pretty well. What do you think? Thanks- Mike.

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

As far as the car dropping in rpms, are you sure you reset your pcm correctly? Try pulling the battery and ignition fuses to reset it. Hope this helps.

quickWS6

I thought that it might just be the thin walls of the headers also, until I listened to both sides. The noise is coming from the driver side only.

I reset my computer by turning on the ignition, removing the PCM Batt and PCM Ign fuses, letting it sit for about 5 minutes, turning off the car, putting them back in, then cranking the car. Is that not the right way?

I LOVE the Hookers. Great fit and finish, awesome for the money. They installed very easy and don't hang any lower than my front frame rails. You might have to work a little to get the driver-side 02 in the header since it is so close to the fuel lines though. I also had some nasty looking primaries. I might take them off and port them and put them back on. If I were you, I would order an uncoated set, make sure the primaries are all cleaned up, then send them to Jet-Hot to be coated. It shouldn't be much if any more $$, and you get the peace of mind of having max power without worrying about breaking your coating.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Quik, does it try and die in gear only or park/neutral as well? If so, then check your IAC counts if possible. The headers may caused your car to run rich/lean until the ecm corrected for increase in flow? After messing around with my EGR and such, my car wanted to idle crazy and it would drop rpm's in gear and sometimes stall. I had carbon build up on the IAC causing it to stick. I pulled the solenoid out dry wiped it clean-reinstalled it was smoother, later pulled it and cleaned with carb cleaner waited for complete dry and installed again. Only a slight fluctuation now, but no stalling and sh*t. It's worth a shot. Good-Luck, thanks for the info on F&F also.

Charlie.

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by quickWS6:
<strong>After I put on my Hooker longtubes, there is a ticking noise coming from the driver side. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from though. The car will also drop to 250-300 RPM when coming to a stop sign at times. Any ideas?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A leaking header gasket will sound like a tick, but it is really an exhaust leak. I had one once and I thought it was a lifter or something, but it ended up being the gasket. This will screw your idle up too, since your O2's will be miles off.

Good luck.

-Geoff

86Red Rocket

I have Hooker long-tubes on my lt-1 and they went on rather easily. The tube on the drivers side is a slip in design (2 piece) which made it even easier. You don't have to unhook your steering linkage to put them on, and they don't leek at the joint. I give the design a two thumbs up. I have a harder time getting them off as compared to getting them on. This is mainly on the passenger side. It may just be me, but I feel like I may have lost some hp after the header install. I feel like the loss is mainly on the bottom end. I have my assumptions for the reason, but I was wondering if anyone else may have had the same thoughts after putting them on.

pbperformance

we did headers / plugs / wires the other day and 2 days later same thing car ran a little rough and made a ticking . the wire on the pass. side popped loose from the coil , not off but just loose and it started arcing . pushed the plug wire back on and no problems since ..... might be worth a shot .

ZYouL8R

I had this same problem when I put on my Hookers. I had a really loud ticking coming from the passenger side, most noticable under the car. I tested everything, took it to a few shops just so they could listen to it, they all told me different answers. It turned out to be a freakin loose plug. And of course it was #8.

So if you changed your plugs, I'd check this. If it's really loose, you could be losing alot of compression, like basically running on 7 cylinders. So that could cause idle and power issues.

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

What was wrong with the primaries QuickWS6? I was thinking about ordering them uncoated anyways. I was going to cut off the EGR and fill it in with weld as someone else did here for a cleaner look and then send them back. How do you suggest porting them?
Looks like you have two things to check on; gaskets and plug wires. Hope one of them works. Good luck and thanks for the help!

991LE

iTrader: (2)

A loose or burned plug wire or header gasket leak.

quickWS6

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SStolen:
<strong>What was wrong with the primaries QuickWS6? I was thinking about ordering them uncoated anyways. I was going to cut off the EGR and fill it in with weld as someone else did here for a cleaner look and then send them back. How do you suggest porting them?
Looks like you have two things to check on; gaskets and plug wires. Hope one of them works. Good luck and thanks for the help!</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Hooker is pretty well-known for bad finish on the primaries. Basically there is just excess metal protruding up into the primary. Instead of a clean circle, it looks like a first-grader drew a circle by hand. I plan on just using a dremel tool to port it out until it is a clean circle.

Z 2 L8ter

iTrader: (6)

Would using a dremel tool or grinder to clean up the primaries hurt the headers if they were already jet hot coated?

http://community.webshots.com/user/jr3334z28

Formula 1

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to take a different angle on your problem. This may sound nuts, but make sure all of your spark plug are tight. A buddy of mine had a similar problem and as it turned out the guy who worked on his car didn't tighten the plugs. <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />