So heres the big question. A: Stock sensor, stock ends, then use a maf translator to tune it. B: Granatelli sensor, plastic ported ends, then use a maf translator to tune it. What would be the best route. What would give me the most power. All this is very confusing to me. Say that my tuning was just right with the stock maf and ends and then threw a Granatelli and then it threw it off, then corrected it with the maf translator. Will the translator correct the tuning back to normal with no horsepower increase or will it correct it and give me horse. From what Granatelli advertises, they say 5 minute bolt on and gives you 10-12 hp at the wheels. Well when I bought it I had no idea that it would have anything to do with throwing my a/f ratio off. See they dont tell you stuff like that. I thought that the recalibration of those units made everything correct. So should I keep it or sell it, or wait until I get a translator.

 

In my opinion, your stock maf sensor fine-tuned with the maft will perform at least as well as the Granatelli. I sold my GMAF after getting custom pcm tuning. I now run (and am tuned for) a Pace 85 mm maf, but the only reason I got it was to have something screened and calibrated, as I had already altered my stocker. Opinions on this vary, but I like a screen on my maf as a filter of last resort. The seal between my K&N and airlid isn't the best. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

The Granatelli maf sensor isn't a bad piece and can work fine when properly tuned. I just think it's an unnecessary mod on which a lot of us have wasted money.
<img border="0" alt="[barf]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_barf.gif" />

 

I believe that the stock sensor is 75mm and the Granatelli is closer to 80mm. I was told that it was 77mm. I know that the one from slp is 85mm. I never heard of the one that youve got. But anyways, so what you are saying is that you put on the 85mm sensor on and then you had it tuned with the maft. So did you pick up any horse. What I was asking is that if my stock tuning was correct and I put on a Granatelli or one from SLP, and then had it tuned, will it give me horse like they promise. I didnt really feel a difference in power and Im assuming that its hurting me. So if the tuning is correct on the stock one and had it tuned, why would I need to tune it if its correct. The only reason you would use it if it was off, correct? So Im wondering how I would gain horsepower? With a stock mafs or an aftermarket one, then have it tuned?

 

OneBadSS: I didn't dyno in isolation for the maf sensor I have so I can't tell you if it alone added anything. I doubt it as the stock unit is good for more rwhp than my "old man" setup is putting out. Your stock maf theoretically shouldn't need tuning, but typically LS1's run a little rich from the factory and you can gain some HP through maft or custom pcm tuning. I can tell you that my custom tuning from Speed, Inc. added 16 rwhp and 15 rwtq on my car. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

By the way, if you are using the "power tuning" on your HPP3 this also changes your a/f and spark timing. With the Granatelli maf tou may be running a bit lean and getting some knock retard, which will hurt performance. Only way to know for sure is to ATAP or wideband and adjust if necessary. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by bigSS:
<strong>I dynoed my car back to back GMAF vs. stock. I gained ZERO rwhp and rwtq. Before the GMAF, my air fuel was 12.7:1...after is was 13.5:1 ... granted my car DIDN'T have time to relearn.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Did the same thing and picked up 8 rwhp. I didn't wideband at that dyno session but I did just recently and I have a perfect 13:1 across the board. I'm a big fan of the GMAF.

Mike

 

According to GM high tech performance magazine, the SLP 85mm MAF is worth 5.1 rwhp and .4lb/ft rwtq, over the stock MAF. Just my two cents.

 

I think a lot of guys are having problems with these things because they are simply buying the wrong ones. If your running a stock intake and an ol' fram paper filter then the regular GMS Maf works fine. But most people will go with the raised lid, K&N filter etc. and then they run into problems and therefor get the GMS sucks attitude. Check out this Q&A from their website.

When do I need cold air tuning?
Cold air inductions significantly increase airflow and can cause tremendous turbulence in the air intake stream. When using the GMS mass airflow sensor with any type of cold air induction, high flow induction, or high flow air filter, your GMS mass airflow sensor must be calibrated with cold air tuning or a check engine light can occur. Cold air tuning is designated by a "C" as the last digit in the part number. Cold air tuning is also available for existing GMS mass airflow sensor owners - please call 805-486-6644 for details.

I'm running one of these and have better response, more power, and even better fuel mileage. My only complaint is they are just to flippin expensive.

 

I know the GMAFs for the trucks (one-piece mafs) are nothing but the stock maf with the plastic ground down in certain places. Maybe different calibrations. They definitely look nasty where the plastic was ground, real rough and not smoothed at all. Hurt my performance a lot.