OneQuickSS

Ive got a 2000 Camaro SS and have the Granatelli mass air flow sensor and I really didnt feel the 10-12 rwhp that they promise. They also said that it would recalibrate itself for 200 miles. Whether it gives me 2 hp or 20 hp, Im gonna keep it. If it takes away hp, then Im going to take it off. I just want to know if it really does work as far as giving me hp. Thanks.

<small>[ November 17, 2002, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: onebadss ]</small>

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

I felt a difference when I hit 3000rpm with the granatelli maf. The car pulled harder. Felt like I got kicked in the ***. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

OneQuickSS

Are you certain?? Ive got one too! I know that when you get a new part sometimes your mind exaggerates and makes it seem like that it gave you something. Did you dyno it and prove it or you just felt it. Ive heard so many different stories. Im not doubting you, I just want to make sure before I decide to sell it or not.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Felt it and tested it. Lets just say that the wheels chirp when it hits 3000rpm. They didn't do that before I got it. Just make sure your computer learns it. Give or take 200 miles for you to feel it.

Colonel

Hmmm...now why would the wheels chirp? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

If your fuel/air happens to be spot on before then the GMS isn't going to help much. If it's off and the GMS happens to put it where it needs to be then you'll pick up power. Or...if there was knock retard caused by a lean mixure before and your GMS happens to richen the mixture you'll pick up power. Or...it could be that the GMS lean the mixture too much and causes KR.

MAFs vary (yes, even GMS "calibrated" MAFs) and cars vary. So, some will gain where others will lose. Some will stay the same.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Yea! Mines gained. Haven't been able to test in 1/4 mile since it has consistantly rained here at least once a week since labor day. Sucks I tell you.

bigSS

I dynoed my car back to back GMAF vs. stock. I gained ZERO rwhp and rwtq. Before the GMAF, my air fuel was 12.7:1...after is was 13.5:1 ... granted my car DIDN'T have time to relearn.

DaddySS

I noticed a SOTP difference with mine, stronger and smoother through the rpm range. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

GeorgeC

I still feel that the best MAF is a stock MAF with the screen removed. There are other ways to adjust timing advance and AF ratio without a fancy "recalibrated" MAF sensor.

As far as the smaller stock MAF being a flow restriction, it doesn't seem to hinder my car at all.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by GeorgeC:
<strong>I still feel that the best MAF is a stock MAF with the screen removed. There are other ways to adjust timing advance and AF ratio without a fancy "recalibrated" MAF sensor.

As far as the smaller stock MAF being a flow restriction, it doesn't seem to hinder my car at all.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree.I had one when why car was stock and it ran 27 degrees timing WOT all of the time. The problems started when I modded the car and eventually set 2 hard codes running lean (which is 25% too lean). I also had idle surging problems and hard starts where before I didn't.I put the stock descreened one back on and all problems and codes went away and haven't come back since.

02smknSS

Anyone who takes the metal screen from the MAF is making a mistake. The MAF needs the screen to refine the airflow which then can advise the computer . If your not adjusting A/f or timing, you probably shouldn't take it out.

OneQuickSS

What I was asking would it make a difference going from a GMAFS to a stock sensor with ported plastic ends.

Colonel

Folks have been removing those screens for years with good results. It's not needed. In fact, I believe GM dropped the screen too for the Z06. From what I understand that screen was needed ON THE TRUCKS because of the 90 degree bend in the intake path just before the MAF. Not sure if that's true. Just what I've read before. What I DO know is that almost no one has reported any trouble with removing the MAF screen. I do it to all of my LS1s.

If you have evidence of descreened MAFs causing problems please fill us in. All the evidence I've seen is to the contrary.

ORIGINAL QUESTIONIST If you were to look at all my mods, will you be able to determine if it helps or hurts my car. No. But you could Autotap to get an idea of where you mixture is and exactly what you timing advance is but even if they are off I'd recommend LS1Edit or a MAFT to correct it. Easy adjustments and easily reversible.

Colonel

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by onebadss:
<strong>What I was asking would it make a difference going from a GMAFS to a stock sensor with ported plastic ends.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The stocker with the ported ends would no doubt be leaner and with higher timing advance. This could be good or it could be bad. What you don't want is lean induced knock retard. It's also no good to go porting MAFs with an A4. It lowers the line pressure which is a bad thing.

CutlassRacer

We have never had any good luck with granetelli stuff at work. Tried to get an Air Meter for a supercharged F-150, sent it back 3 times and after the third time we decided that it was pointless to continue. And now they are being JERKS on the phone. They promised phone calls and that we would work something out (what use to we have for a POS air meter). I did promise them that I would never use another one of their products and that I would discourage anyone else using them as well. I keep my promises too, lol. <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" /> GRANETELLI SUCKS <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

OneQuickSS

ORIGINAL QUESTIONIST If you were to look at all my mods, will you be able to determine if it helps or hurts my car. Or is that something that I will have to test for myself. If so, how do I test it. Whats the difference if I was to put back the stock sensor and plastic ported ends. Will it make a difference. So what youre saying is that the GMAFS make it run a little leaner. Would there be any reason why I would need to run leaner.

speedy LS1

Can someone tell me why ported ends would lower the line pressure and is there anything that can be done to increase the line pressure back to normal?

SSLink

All aftermarket maf sensors are hit or miss in impact. A far better way to fine tune your a/f is via custom tuning or a maf translator. If it's airflow you're worried about, the stock maf outflows the TB and intake and is good for well over 400 rwhp, even with the screen in. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

OneQuickSS

By looking at all my mods, can you determine if the sensor it hurting or helping me. Or do I have to have all those high tech computer stuff.

OneQuickSS

By looking at all my mods, can you determine if the sensor it hurting or helping me. Or do I have to have all those high tech computer stuff.