Has anyone had any problems with free mods....???? I am fixing to do them all and need to know..
Thought i would add my current mods

<small>[ December 08, 2002, 10:51 PM: Message edited by: Boo Yeah ]</small>

 

All I know are the ones that I have done.
Here's what I learned:
EGR mod (if you have an EGR): There is a rubber o-ring style gasket on the pipe going into the manifold. Know this so you don't lose it. Also, it can be a little difficult to get it to seat back perfectly the first time. So check for a vacuum leak and adjust the o-ring as needed. It took me an adjustment or two to get rid of a vacuum leak after doing the mod. Also, when you pull the pipe out of the manifold, be very gentle with it so you don't kink it. You'll never get a kink out of it if you get one.
Throttle stop mod: I had no issues. Just use a voltmeter on the TPS so you don't go too far. Do a search on the voltage you want to limit yourself to. I forgot the number.
FRA: Love this mod. It's a must do. One thing to know is that the back half of your air filter will dirty much quicker with this mod. To double the life of your filter, rotate it 180* when the back is too dirty.
Free 160* thermostat: http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=180 The only issue here is that the mod will not work correctly until you get the fans to come on sooner. For that I did the auto fan switch mod. http://ls1info.com/article.php?sid=222 It's only about $20, is fully auto, and doesn't require running wires into the cabin of the car. Great mod. As a team, they cause my car to run ~175* consistently. This is a great mod to help fight KR.
TB bypass: Great mod. Don't pay big bux for it online. Some of these guys ask $10-15 for a hose barb! Highway robbery. Get the part from a hardware store. Better yet, just get 24" of automotive grade reinforced rubber line from the parts house in the correct i/d and run one solid hose in place of the two. Get 2 rubber vacuum caps while you are there to put on the abandoned nipples left behind on the TB. Just for looks mainly, but also keeps crap out. This is another mod that fends off KR.
Last but far from least... Porting the MAF:
Do not do this mod if you have an A4 car! This will interfere with you auto tranny's computer controls as the MAF sends info to aid gear selection.
This mod can and usually does cause KR. If you do some of the above listed mods, it will help fight this and give you a good power boost. You can also fight KR by going one step colder on your spark plugs if need be. If I was to port a stock MAF again, I would try to do it with leaving the screen intact. The screen serves a very specific and important function that I didn't know about when I ported my MAF. I believe that leaving the screen could also aid in the fight against KR caused by a ported MAF. KR (knock retard) is the retarding of your timing to control detonation sensed by the computer. Retarding the timing causes a power loss. Detonation can destroy your engine. These are related factors to keep in mind when working on your LS1. Also, if you port your MAF, you WILL have to run premium fuel from then on. Your owner's manual says to run premium anyway, but you can get away with lower stuff... until you do this mod. Just a heads up.
I hope this made sense and helps you.
Good luck
Dave

 

i already have the tb bypass, yet another good thing about keen eyes in a junk yard <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> When they see it is an unessecary part the rednecks around here let you have it, so i got it free

 

do you have lontube headers??? I would like to know if the dyno max bullet makes a big difference.

 

I don't have headers yet. Hookers are on the wish list though.
I see you have the LM. I suppose if you want to tone it down just a touch, you could put the long bullet, DynoMax part 24219 in there and refine the tone a little. A friend on LS1.com, Tally TransAm (Ryan) has headers/ORP with a long bullet and it sounds real nice. Louder than mine of course because I have cats.
Tally's sound clip

 

What did that aluminum flywheel do for you?
How do you like it?
Any pros/cons?
TIA
Dave

 

YES I WILL TONE IT DOWN SOON, ONCE I GET TIME TO ACTUALLY DO MY FREE MODS THEN I WILL ORDER A BULLET OF SOME SORT. i HAVE BEEN PONDERING WITH THE IDES OF A XR1 MUFFLER.
I PERSONALLY LOVE THE FLYWHEEL, BUT DON'T GET CAUGHT INA STEEP DRIVEWAY TRYING FOR REVERSE WITH NO LIGHTS. IT IS A HUGE DIFFERENCE AND TACS UP QUICKER BUT YOU CAN TELL YOUR MISSING IT ON THE LAUNCH. AFTER YOU launch it just seems to rev like mad. with enough traction you feel like the car wants to run to 12k rpm.
soon i should have video.

 

bump stop mod. 4.7 is the magic # dont go above it or you will get SES light. I went to 4.62 volts with no problems.

 

with the fra you have to reset the pcm to get rid of the ses light or at least i did.

 

where exactly do we put the meter in line for the tb stop?

 

Ratio411, I too have heard about the MAF mod vs. A4's, but I did a partial mod, just popped out the screen and very lightly deburred the ring that held it using a emery board. I have over 4k since then and no problems associated with it, and if I remember right, I did pick up one or two mph in the qtr. Just my food for thought.

Charlie.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Boo Yeah:
<strong>I would like to know if the dyno max bullet makes a big difference.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">If you are asking if it will take the rasping out of an ORP, it will some but not completely. This has been my experience. The rasp is also not nearly as obnoxious during acceleration either.

 

The MAF screen is there to straighten the air flow, but is only necessary if the intake track has bends & curves, like the trucks. So, it's not necessary on the f-bodies or Corvettes. Witness the Z06, which has a descreened MAF from the factory. That's the way I understand it, anyway.

I descreened mine and did get some pinging on the top end. I replaced the factory plugs with TR55's, reset the PCM and drove it hard for a while. That seemed to cure about 90% of it (the audible part of it, anyway). I figure any other intake mods that improve airflow (like FTRA, ported TB) and I'll have to get a Predator or MAF translator to richen things up a bit.

<small>[ December 11, 2002, 12:37 AM: Message edited by: Dest98 ]</small>

 

I have done some free mods without any problems.

1> Free ram air
2> ported maf
3> ported TB
4> TB stop mod
5> Nostrills opened for functional air intake
6> TB bypass
7> EGR

<small>[ December 11, 2002, 01:52 AM: Message edited by: Fahad ]</small>