FIPK over just a Lid. <img border="0" alt="[Fluffy]" title="" src="graemlins/fluffy.gif" />

 

the guys at thunder racing told me that the fipk got only 3hp over your typical lid set-up. but, if you haven't bought a lid yet, and you want something most people don't have, then go w/ the fipk... it sure looks cool...

 

the FIPK is a great kit, but it also takes in hot air from the engine bay which carries much less o2 than cold air. This is why it doesn't make that much power. I would try the stealth lid. Its what i ahve and it works great, but the bellows dont really hold up <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />

 

I got the FIPK & I'm happy.

When I get the Raptor Hood it will add cool air through the nostrils of the hood.

The FIPK also cleans up the engine compartment.

<img src="http://www.jailhouse-diary.com/mycar.jpg" alt=" - " />

 

See the post https://ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...;f=24;t=005527 not too far below. Look about midway down where I posted the dyno difference between a lid and the FIPK with the hood *closed*. Huge difference - I would not even consider the FIPK.

 

Is the K$N FIPK kit worth the $$$$. Or should I just go with the other lids available?

 

Weather Guy, I read your post on that before, but until I dyno with and w/out the FIPK vs. Lid, I must say I disagree with the dyno numbers. There may have been more to it than just the swap of intake tracks ya know. Temperature, ambient and internal, etc....I run the FIPK and ALL my friends run various lids, at the track, mod for mod I am on the same line of progression they are. Correct me if I am wrong, but when using the dyno hood open or close, you have pretty still air around the intake. I have autotapped with the FIPK and I will say at idle ( lights etc..) that the intake temp is higher than with a lid, but once moving the temp is about the same, hence making the two basically equal at the track. I will try to swap lids with one of my buddies this weekend and if so, I will post up the difference if any. No offense intended, just trying to add a little light to those kicking the FIPK, besides your hard pressed to get any other bellows to hook up so cleanly.

Charlie.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by CAT3:
<strong>Weather Guy, I read your post on that before, but until I dyno with and w/out the FIPK vs. Lid, I must say I disagree with the dyno numbers. There may have been more to it than just the swap of intake tracks ya know. Temperature, ambient and internal, etc....I run the FIPK and ALL my friends run various lids, at the track, mod for mod I am on the same line of progression they are. Correct me if I am wrong, but when using the dyno hood open or close, you have pretty still air around the intake. I have autotapped with the FIPK and I will say at idle ( lights etc..) that the intake temp is higher than with a lid, but once moving the temp is about the same, hence making the two basically equal at the track. I will try to swap lids with one of my buddies this weekend and if so, I will post up the difference if any. No offense intended, just trying to add a little light to those kicking the FIPK, besides your hard pressed to get any other bellows to hook up so cleanly.

Charlie.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The information is there for you to take it or leave it as you please. Be aware that 4 dyno pulls were made, with a two back-and forth switches between the lid and the FIPK. In other words, the switches were done WHILE the car was strapped down on the dyno - hence no difference in engine internals, ambient temperature, etc. A large fan was used to blow air over the front of the car during the dyno testing, as is standard practice. We did not see much difference between the two with the hood up, but the difference with the hood down was huge.

This test was done on the same vehicle, while your comparison is between your car and other cars, which gives no real way to tell.

My suspicion is that the FIPK penalizes you on launch (the 60-foot) from sucking hot air, but the penalty goes away once the car is moving. In other words, I would expect a slower ET, but perhaps a slightly higher MPH at the end of the quarter since it would take longer to get down the track. On autotap temperatures, you should see higher temps for the FIPK over the lid while the car is stopped.

If you are interested, I have video clips of the four dyno pulls to verify that the car was not moved for the comparisons.

 

WeatherGuy, good poop there. I see your point and am more willing to agree now having the whole inseide scoop. Ya gotta point about my testing on my car to "theirs" also. BTW, compared to my friends here on the island, i get pretty good 60', on DR i can usually get 1.87 all night, where some dont fare as well using DR ( and lid of course). The lid may be why I seem to post slower mph per ET than most my friends though. For instance I run 12.88 at 105 most my friends with A4's and lids run a 12.88 at 107. Could it be the lid???

 

Thanks for the info, seems as if it is a split. I guess i will do some more research on my part but, ya'lls information has helped.

 

weatherguy, when you did your test, did you have the !fra or FTRA with the lid? If so once you closed the hood, the lid still had a direct access to an outside air source, while the FIPK had been essentially choked off ... more or less significantly biasing the test in favor of a !fra/FTRA lid set up.

That said the simplest fix for the FIPK is to simply drop the washer reservoir and the shroud underneath. I did that, closed the hood revved and in 20 minutes I could only get the AIT to go up about 18* while static, which included occasionally revving the engine. Granted most of that 18* jump was in the first 10 minutes.

M

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by MysticZ28:
<strong> weatherguy, when you did your test, did you have the !fra or FTRA with the lid? If so once you closed the hood, the lid still had a direct access to an outside air source, while the FIPK had been essentially choked off ... more or less significantly biasing the test in favor of a !fra/FTRA lid set up.

That said the simplest fix for the FIPK is to simply drop the washer reservoir and the shroud underneath. I did that, closed the hood revved and in 20 minutes I could only get the AIT to go up about 18* while static, which included occasionally revving the engine. Granted most of that 18* jump was in the first 10 minutes.

M </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I had the FRA, but it was blocked off during the dyno.

A number of the racers on this board found out that they were getting better ETs by *closing* or blocking off their FRA. Why? At launch, it was sucking hot air from off the radiator and killing the 60-foots. The FRA worked well once the car was moving (better MPH), but the improvement in the 60-foot times bettered the ET more than the big end pickup with the slower 60-foot.

What does this mean? The FRA actually can cause hot air to get in at idle also, so it is NOT an advantage of the lid over the FIPK. BTW, I have a mod to the air lip under my lid that allows more air to come in under the front. I also do not seem to get higher AIT's with the car at idle - wonder if that mod helps with that any.