Longtubes are on, but car won't start...
Originally Posted by Luna
I'll be very interested to see whats wrong here, my money says you have no spark for whatever reason.
Just not sure why.
Originally Posted by Luna
Did you make sure the coil pack brackets are bolted down? That is how they ground on the 99s and up, or so I'm told...
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Princeton, MA
If you have no spark check the crank sensor. Electronic ignitions need that signal to trigger the the coils. On many efi cars fuel delivery is dependant on an rpm signal as well. Like outlawz racing said there will be no dtc stored unless the engine lost the crank signal sporadically while running or if the sensor is unplugged alltogether.
[QUOTE=Scotty-Z]That's what I thought too. I disconnected the sensor in the rear of the car that detects motion and such because I thought VATS might be pissed at me. Used a spare key and tried starting her then and she didn't work.
QUOTE]
Does this work? I never heard of doing that. Ive always just measured the resistance in the resistor on the key. THen bought a resistor that ohm. Then found the two white wires under the dash cut them then spliced the resistor in between them to by pass VATS.
QUOTE]
Does this work? I never heard of doing that. Ive always just measured the resistance in the resistor on the key. THen bought a resistor that ohm. Then found the two white wires under the dash cut them then spliced the resistor in between them to by pass VATS.
Well, the car was trailered down the highway by my buddies and I tonight to the Chevy dealer where my mechanic friend works. Tomorrow morning before work, we're going to hook it up to a diagnostics-type of scanner that reads signals and electrical charges and scans various systems of the car. Should know tommorrow what's wrong with it... hopefully.
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Verdad Gallardo Alrighty guys. Got the car pushed up onto a trailer last night with my buddies and we took her down the highway to the dealership and unloaded her. I get there this morning at 7:00 and my buddy is already in the car with the scanning tool, going over everything and checking codes. He was using GM's Tech 2 scanner, which is a damn fine tool if you ask me. Kind of like our hand-held programmers, but about 10 inches tall and does a million times more things.
Told us everything we needed to know. The engine temp sensor (that I replaced yesterday) wasn't getting a good wire connection and was therefore telling the car that it was sitting at -38 degrees. A little wiggling and prying got it back up to air temperature at 77 degrees. So he's just going to play with the connection on that and see if he can't get the wires to hold better. Also, the crank sensor wasn't getting proper signal, so he's going to check the wiring on that as well and possibly just replace the sensor. Basically, everything that was a problem was something that we'd looked at or fixed, but just wouldn't be able to tell if it was properly working without the use of this tool. If everything problem-wise stays this minor, the car should be back up and running by this afternoon.
Thanks again for everyone's help!
Told us everything we needed to know. The engine temp sensor (that I replaced yesterday) wasn't getting a good wire connection and was therefore telling the car that it was sitting at -38 degrees. A little wiggling and prying got it back up to air temperature at 77 degrees. So he's just going to play with the connection on that and see if he can't get the wires to hold better. Also, the crank sensor wasn't getting proper signal, so he's going to check the wiring on that as well and possibly just replace the sensor. Basically, everything that was a problem was something that we'd looked at or fixed, but just wouldn't be able to tell if it was properly working without the use of this tool. If everything problem-wise stays this minor, the car should be back up and running by this afternoon.
Thanks again for everyone's help!
Originally Posted by My2ndls1
I was beginning to wonder if your car just didn't like you! 
I hope you get it fired up this afternoon! Good Luck man!
I hope you get it fired up this afternoon! Good Luck man! ). He said he replaced those, tightened up the wiring on the Engine Temp sensor, and she fired right up. I owe that guy a ton.Time to go pick up the car and drive it around with my full exhaust!
Originally Posted by Scotty-Z
Just talked to my buddy and he said that he replaced the plug and sensor for the Crank Sensor (I think that's what he said, he called when I was sleeping ). He said he replaced those, tightened up the wiring on the Engine Temp sensor, and she fired right up. I owe that guy a ton.
Time to go pick up the car and drive it around with my full exhaust!
). He said he replaced those, tightened up the wiring on the Engine Temp sensor, and she fired right up. I owe that guy a ton.Time to go pick up the car and drive it around with my full exhaust!
That's Awesome!! I'd like to see what you think about the sound when you get it back. With my cutout closed, mine's actually very quiet.
Originally Posted by Gearhead1
I think you'll love the way it sounds with the LT's, ORY, and SLP DD. If it's a little raspy for you, stall it. It takes 90% of the rasp out because the engine isn't loaded as much.
Originally Posted by My2ndls1
That's Awesome!! I'd like to see what you think about the sound when you get it back. With my cutout closed, mine's actually very quiet.
Originally Posted by 99SSragtop
Did you disconnect the engine temp plug? If that is un plugged it won't start. It is located by #1 plug.
Originally Posted by Scotty-Z
Yes, upon startup, I thought "Wow, that's louder than I expected". But upon the idle smoothing out and the car warming up, it really quieted down. Quite mellow during normal driving, but sounds great at WOT.
Originally Posted by Strahley
Glad to hear she's running again. Just out of curiousity, is there a post anywhere as to why you sold your 2000 to get the 2002?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
Scott, I don't think the 2OTL is going to sound less raspy once you get it on. (although I hope I'm wrong) The intensity of the rasp is determined greatly by how much load the engine sees. Mine was raspy to the point of frustration (it was my 4th exhaust) until I stalled it. That took a lot of the rasp out because it wasn't seeing as much load under normal driving conditions.
(it was my 4th exhaust) until I stalled it. That took a lot of the rasp out because it wasn't seeing as much load under normal driving conditions.
Originally Posted by Fire-formula 93
He got a great deal on it and it has less miles and is newer. Also, the color is bad-***.
Originally Posted by Gearhead1
Scott, I don't think the 2OTL is going to sound less raspy once you get it on. (although I hope I'm wrong) The intensity of the rasp is determined greatly by how much load the engine sees. Mine was raspy to the point of frustration (it was my 4th exhaust) until I stalled it. That took a lot of the rasp out because it wasn't seeing as much load under normal driving conditions.
(it was my 4th exhaust) until I stalled it. That took a lot of the rasp out because it wasn't seeing as much load under normal driving conditions. I go through exhausts too. 
