Best way to access header bolts...
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Burnsville, Minnesota.
Best way to access header bolts... I sprung an exhaust leak last night when I hit a giant bump on the highway. Anyways, I have the ticking noise from the manifold area and I know its not a lifter or valvetrain related.
Anyways, I can get at the front header bolts fairly easily but the rears seem like a pain in the ***. I didn't install the headers as they were done when I had my engine installed by Speed, Inc. Do I have to access them from the bottom? Or, do I grab a flashlight and kiss my knuckles goodbye. As it is right now I don't want to drive the car the way it is. It sounds like some hillbilly redneck truck.
Anyways, I can get at the front header bolts fairly easily but the rears seem like a pain in the ***. I didn't install the headers as they were done when I had my engine installed by Speed, Inc. Do I have to access them from the bottom? Or, do I grab a flashlight and kiss my knuckles goodbye. As it is right now I don't want to drive the car the way it is. It sounds like some hillbilly redneck truck.
Get the #8 from the bottom, the rest, if you have the AIR tubes still installed, unbolt them from the headers and move them out of the way, a 10mm (or standard equivalent) will go along way towards helping you get the bolts tight, a 1/4 drive ratchet with a short socket and some short extensions will also help
Wobble extensions and u joint sockes are a godsend too
It's a bitch to get to some of them, so wear some mechanics gloves, and be prepared to get your arms skinned up cut up and bruised
Wobble extensions and u joint sockes are a godsend too
It's a bitch to get to some of them, so wear some mechanics gloves, and be prepared to get your arms skinned up cut up and bruised
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Burnsville, Minnesota.
Originally Posted by 2K2WS6TA
Get the #8 from the bottom, the rest, if you have the AIR tubes still installed, unbolt them from the headers and move them out of the way, a 10mm (or standard equivalent) will go along way towards helping you get the bolts tight, a 1/4 drive ratchet with a short socket and some short extensions will also help
Wobble extensions and u joint sockes are a godsend too
It's a bitch to get to some of them, so wear some mechanics gloves, and be prepared to get your arms skinned up cut up and bruised
Wobble extensions and u joint sockes are a godsend too
It's a bitch to get to some of them, so wear some mechanics gloves, and be prepared to get your arms skinned up cut up and bruised
I don't have any wobble extensions or gloves. I guess I need to make a trip to Sears.
I don't have any of the AIR stuff as we don't have emissions in Minnesota,...so there is a blockoff plate at the moment.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Burnsville, Minnesota.
Originally Posted by 2K2WS6TA
No AIR makes it easier, but it's still a PITA, one thing I really wished I had, was an air wrench 1/4 drive
I think it's time for some new LT's in the future. It's just driving me nuts some times. The hard part is getting the car up in the air far enough to be able to get under it and get a grip on the bolts. The car has factory ground effects, lowered, etc. I have to drive on ramped boards in order to lift it off the ground.
If you have SLP headers, those are the lowest hanging headers for an ls1, most of the others you should have no problem with, the only thing that will scrape os the y pipe, you might want to check the y pipe/collector joint to see if that's the problem
On mine the SFCs will srape before the headers/ypipe will
On mine the SFCs will srape before the headers/ypipe will
I've also found it easier to reach the back bolts by disconnecting the spark plug wires from the coil pack. You could also remove the coil packs. They have those pointed metal things that scratch the hell out of hands if you aren't wearing gloves! Good luck!
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: Burnsville, Minnesota.
Originally Posted by 2K2WS6TA
If you have SLP headers, those are the lowest hanging headers for an ls1, most of the others you should have no problem with, the only thing that will scrape os the y pipe, you might want to check the y pipe/collector joint to see if that's the problem
On mine the SFCs will srape before the headers/ypipe will
On mine the SFCs will srape before the headers/ypipe will
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Originally Posted by xaon
I generally pull off the coil packs and reach back there with a ratcheting wrench. Easy as pie.
yep, if you yank the coil packs off it makes everything alot easier to work on
