Stainless Works Headers???? Anyone runnin them?
I cannot speak for their F-Body headers but as you can see from my sig. I do have them on my 04 Silverado. The quality of the headers is second to none and the header fitament is perfect. I literally had both headers, plugs, and wires done on my truck in about an hour. I know we are not talking apples to apples here but I think they would be similar on the F-Body. I have spoken to them about their headers for our cars and I think they would be the best bet for someone looking to do bolt ons ONLY as their headers ONLY come with 2.5" Y-pipe (w/ or w/o cats). They will make their headers with 3" collector but no Y-pipe. I originally wanted to get their headers with 3" collector and Y-pipe (w/cats) for my truck but they said they could not do it without the truck present. They fit perfect in the stock location. I had an issue with the Y-pipe transistion where is connects to my cat-back being manufactured wrong and I had a new replacement in a week. Great customer service with good work instructions. Anything else please do not hesistate to ask.
thanks for the info
Cakes, you said the 3" collector to 2.5 Y is good for a bolt on car, I have a mild baby cam compared to what all the other techers are throwing in, but i was thinkin the 2.5 Y wouldnt be too bad for me. Is it that bad reducing down to a 2.5 y?
Cakes, you said the 3" collector to 2.5 Y is good for a bolt on car, I have a mild baby cam compared to what all the other techers are throwing in, but i was thinkin the 2.5 Y wouldnt be too bad for me. Is it that bad reducing down to a 2.5 y?
Originally Posted by mcamp001
I have them, top notch. Great quality, easy install, great ground clearance, best ones IMO
Just scared about new Y's after seeing all the QTP Y horror stories
Thanks
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Originally Posted by ilirw325
thanks for the info
Cakes, you said the 3" collector to 2.5 Y is good for a bolt on car, I have a mild baby cam compared to what all the other techers are throwing in, but i was thinkin the 2.5 Y wouldnt be too bad for me. Is it that bad reducing down to a 2.5 y?
Cakes, you said the 3" collector to 2.5 Y is good for a bolt on car, I have a mild baby cam compared to what all the other techers are throwing in, but i was thinkin the 2.5 Y wouldnt be too bad for me. Is it that bad reducing down to a 2.5 y?
You're absolutely fine. The 2.5" Y outflows the overwhelming majority of what people have installed - the dual 3" is overkill. Case in point - I run a heads/cam combo (224 cam), and my 2.5" SW Y (catted) dumping into the *factory* catback doesn't seem to be holding me back at all... 430rwhp. Or if you need another example, do a search for user 'Viper' and look at his power with the catted 2.5" Y.
Originally Posted by 02RedHawk
You're absolutely fine. The 2.5" Y outflows the overwhelming majority of what people have installed - the dual 3" is overkill. Case in point - I run a heads/cam combo (224 cam), and my 2.5" SW Y (catted) dumping into the *factory* catback doesn't seem to be holding me back at all... 430rwhp. Or if you need another example, do a search for user 'Viper' and look at his power with the catted 2.5" Y.
Would you have any pics handy of the installed LT's and Y?
Thanks
ilirw325, their headers come manufactured with 2.5" collector. There is no reducing (besides in the collector). People see to say that with 1.75" headers", 3" collector, and 3" y-pipe (catted or not) that they do lose some low end but are much better at moving more air at higher rpm. I think its a trade off. If you run mostly on the street and have a cam that is stock or designed for low end a smaller tube is going to help keep exhaust gas velocities higher. Larger tubing tends to slow the exhaust gases down at low speeds creating a loss of low end torque. Personally I think a 2.5" y-pipe will be more than sufficient up to around 425-450 Crank HP (street car or street/some strip car). I will hopefully be purchasing headers for my car by the end of the summer and they are on my list next to Kooks. I am going to have to do some more research. I know on my truck they transformed it greatly as far as low end torque.
They are not very popular with the GTO owners. They have serious fitment issues. (not just me). I dont know about them regarding f-bods or any other vehicle. Kooks seems to be the brand with the highest quality rep and fewest problems, with at least in regard to the goats.
I have a different account on ls1gto and when i searched SW I read a lot of good things and then i read a few things about interfering with the steering rack. But from what ive read about that is its hit or miss which i guess when u are paying top$ is not acceptable. But when u search enough you find people that have had problems and fitment issues with all brands. When GM makes a car a little off of spec(and they can QC every single part that gets used) and a header company makes theres slightly off or a welding fixture gets disturbed while out at lunch in the middle of welding that will cause the interference. A lot of F-body guys have to cut tabs off the block to get the LT's to fit and some have to knotch the K member. nothing is perfect i guess but should be lol
Originally Posted by Cakes
ilirw325, their headers come manufactured with 2.5" collector. There is no reducing (besides in the collector). People see to say that with 1.75" headers", 3" collector, and 3" y-pipe (catted or not) that they do lose some low end but are much better at moving more air at higher rpm. I think its a trade off. If you run mostly on the street and have a cam that is stock or designed for low end a smaller tube is going to help keep exhaust gas velocities higher. Larger tubing tends to slow the exhaust gases down at low speeds creating a loss of low end torque. Personally I think a 2.5" y-pipe will be more than sufficient up to around 425-450 Crank HP (street car or street/some strip car). I will hopefully be purchasing headers for my car by the end of the summer and they are on my list next to Kooks. I am going to have to do some more research. I know on my truck they transformed it greatly as far as low end torque.
Thanks, keep me posted on any info you find out as i am too going to be choosing between kooks and SW. I want to place my order next week and a sponsor, speed engineering, has a sale goin on SW headers.
I think the 2.5" will work for me....last month i dynoed 377 through stock manifolds and no cats in an A4, so that number puts me around your HP figure at the crank for 2.5" pipes
Thanks
ilirw325, I will keep you posted. What mods do you have for 377 RWHP? I am just guessing on the 425-450 Crank HP estimate. I am sure it will be choking the engine off but only at higher rpms. I think when people choose headers they really need to specify where the engine will see its majority of engine speed. Headers size really puts power where you want/need it. As for me, I am a huge fan of low speed torque and rarely get to redline. Dont get me wrong I want to have my cake and eat it too but my car is a street car and always will be. Torque is the name of the game in my opinion and smaller tubes (within reason) will assure me of my low speed torque. No matter what size long tube headers are installed, high rpm power will be gained its just the collector/y-pipe size that will dictate how much low end is lost/gained and how much high rpm power is lost/gained. Oh yeah, what is Speed Engineering's sale?!
StainlessWorks has personally run dual 2.5" pipes on 600hp engines w/ mufflers (to the tips). Then they ran it open-headers... Net loss w/ the full exhaust: 6hp.
2.5" Y-pipes will flow well into the 500hp range.
2.5" Y-pipes will flow well into the 500hp range.
Originally Posted by 02RedHawk
StainlessWorks has personally run dual 2.5" pipes on 600hp engines w/ mufflers (to the tips). Then they ran it open-headers... Net loss w/ the full exhaust: 6hp.
2.5" Y-pipes will flow well into the 500hp range.
2.5" Y-pipes will flow well into the 500hp range.
im sold 
ilirw325, make sure you ask them to check if they put a "notch" in each pipe that slides OVER another. They missed a few on my headers and I have some small leaks on cold start-up. Other than that you should be set. Please be sure to do us all a favor and shoot some pics of the loose pieces and if you can during the install. Would really appreciate it!