what is the best spark plug for the ls1???
what are the best plugs for our cars???
anyone do any dyno testing on these???
will they make a dig difference in performance??
<strong> I run TR55's gapped at .050.No copmplaints <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree. You can't beat the conductivity of copper. But, if long life is what you're after then platinums or iridiums are fine.
Hey, question for you guys (and yes, I already know the answer)... How many sparks does a spark plug make when it has 2 side electrodes instead of just 1? How about if it had 10 side electrodes? ...The answer is one. That's why Splitfire plugs are nothing but a gimmick.
Something to think about when you're shelling out the big bucks for that "FIRESTORM OF POWER!!!" <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" />
I had +4's and they seemed no better or worse than stock. But I got some misfires on idle. Rougher idle. I went for +4's because I did not want to change plugs ever again. Heard horror stories of how hard a LS1 plug change was.
Anyways, I am now running NGK TR55s and think they are great. Better idle also.
Changing plugs takes no longer than 1 hour if you follow the instructions on installuniverisity.com.
Tommy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
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<strong> Colonel: How many bullets can a gun that fires one bullet/sec fire in one second? One. How many bullets can four of this same gun fire in one second? Gee, I think the answer is FOUR. Therefore, the spark can travel the most efficient path, and deliver a longer more powerful spark. <img border="0" alt="[jester]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Funny but not a good analogy at all since you're still going to have but ONE spark regardless. That one spark is going to do the same job no matter which of the 4 electrodes it fires from (it'll likely favor one most all of the time.)
Like was just mentioned, the more open the plug is, the better flame front the charge sees. Here's an old hotrodder's trick to illustrate the point...
Want a few extra ponies for just one run at the possible sacrifice of your ignition? Try cutting the side electrodes OFF. Yes, that's right, off. You'll also need to drop the timing advance back a couple of degrees to make up for the faster onset of combustion. If you have enough electrical power behind your plugs then the engine will still run. Push the car to the line as to stave off fouling and ignition failure. You should see a little extra HP. This is a very old trick used sometimes by those wishing to push across that next barrier when it's so close they can taste it. The reason it works is because you signifigantly increase the exposed area of spark to the fuel/air charge. Likewise, decreasing this area can only serve to decrease power.
Having said that, I think I'll be sticking with ONE electrode since the spark will only travel from one at a time anyway. <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />
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I have yet to find a plug that works better in an LS1 than NGK. We've tried a few.
I use NGK TR55s gapped at .059 on my B1 cammed car, and I never show any more than single digit misfires per cycle per cylinder at my 800rpm idle.
<small>[ March 20, 2003, 07:38 PM: Message edited by: RPM WS6 ]</small>
<strong>
I use NGK TR55s gapped at .059 . </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Anyone know the Part # for these, and how do you gap them bastards?








