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Hey all. Ws6 w 600 lift cam and lots of overlap. Have 1 7/8 lt w an un catted ypipe 3" all the way back to a flowmaster SUV muffler (creative piping). Volune is acceptable (louder than stock but neighbors dont mind). Rasp is not acceptable.
ordered SE true duals over axle...expected saturday. Been reading about everyone's set up. Borla xr1, magnaflow rounds (can't tell if race or perf muff is quieter), pipes m80, auger looking thing, cones, etc). I'm worried anything straight through would still be loud since the flowmaster fbody muff orig on car was WAY too loud for me. I also plan on 550rwhp motor upgrade soon..maybe w a tamer cam...maybe.
the one muffler I keep coming back to is the dynomax sup turbo round w 18" body (17698). "If" this works id need new, shorter tips. But this muffler has a 700scfm rating while all the straight throughs are about tripple that. Will a pair of these mufflers rob me of a significant amount power? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for supporting sponsors who provide great products.
I posted a similar question on the SE TD thread and high flow cats were suggested. I bought one (flowmaster stubby looking thing $50) and put it on my current set up to test out and it sounds even better to me...still some rasp...BUT...HUGE power loss..i realize 2 high flows won't be as bad but I may have been scared away from having any cats at all.
I have noticed alot of AWESOME pictures of good looking rides. I have a LQ4 in a 1988 c1500. I will have to run my duels down the passenger side because of the gas tank. my question is, will the fact that the drivers side tubing will be longer over all effect any performance? will a "X" or "H" solve this? or am i just over thinking this?
Ok, i have a question! I see a lot of reference to the "machine gun" sound around 3k rpm with the true duals and bullet muffler style exhausts. Is this the norm for these systems? I've just had a true dual with bullets and x pipe made here in the UK in the style of Kooks/Speed engineering duals and i have this "machine gun" type noise at around 3k.
Its more of an LS1 with unequal length exhaust characteristic. Corvettes with the same engine said different. People used to think duals didnt do this but once these systems started becoming available that exited out the rear and only had a bullet style muffler to tame it down then it became clear that even duals did this. I have know this for 12 years when I started building exhaust for these cars. I can build a y pipe setup dumped and a dual x pipe setup dumped, blindfold you, and you will not be able to tell me which one is single vs dual. Having it dumped uses the underside of the car and ground as an echo chamber that soaks up alot of the tone that most people hate that they hear when the exhaust exits out the back into open air. The downside of course is now its much louder inside the car.
Just got my tsp long tubes and their rumbler true dual setup. The dumped version not the rear exit. Should be going on soon ill post some pics for anyone interested.
For people who are running catalytic converters on the end of their collectors, have you ran into any issues with heat transfer to the floorboards ? I’ve been thinking of adding some high flow cats to try and knock some of the exhaust smell off as my wife won’t go in the car with me and it stinks the garage out. Only issue I can see is that with the cats fitted (Magnaflow 59956 or similar) the drivers side one will only be about an inch at most from the floorboard beneath the drivers legs. Can imagine it’ll get very hot? Don’t want to set fire to my carpet.
For people who are running catalytic converters on the end of their collectors, have you ran into any issues with heat transfer to the floorboards ? I’ve been thinking of adding some high flow cats to try and knock some of the exhaust smell off as my wife won’t go in the car with me and it stinks the garage out. Only issue I can see is that with the cats fitted (Magnaflow 59956 or similar) the drivers side one will only be about an inch at most from the floorboard beneath the drivers legs. Can imagine it’ll get very hot? Don’t want to set fire to my carpet.
I have mine tucked up close to the floor board, and have not noticed additional heat, I did also ceramic coat them. You could apply heat shielding above it.
I have mine tucked up close to the floor board, and have not noticed additional heat, I did also ceramic coat them. You could apply heat shielding above it.
Speed Engineering True Duals with cats on a lowered car
My WS6 is lowered 1.5”. I'm running Speed Engineering True Duals. The bolts that come with the kit are absolutely useless. You can't get them tight enough without stripping them. If you leave them loose the pipes come apart. I lost a wideband O2 that way. I upgraded the bolts to stage 8 bolts and also welded a tag on each piece of pipe at the lips to keep them from moving.
It’s a heads and cam car with a 228/228 cam and trick flow heads. Idles a little high at 950 rpm. Needs some tuning. Video doesn't do it justice. It sounds amazing and I get compliments from everyone. Sounds very refined with the cats. It's still loud and will set car alarms off but doesn't have that ratchety straight pipe crackle.
I added the high flow cats to smoothen out the sound and also welded it up on the hangers to get extra clearance. Had to clearance the torque arm as well. No extra heat from cats.
How has your experience been overall with being lowered? I have Strano springs and really interested in this kit
I still scrape a bit on the driver side over long speed bumps. Overall, I really like them. Just avoid speed bumps and make the modifications I did to tuck the exhaust higher up.
I still scrape a bit on the driver side over long speed bumps. Overall, I really like them. Just avoid speed bumps and make the modifications I did to tuck the exhaust higher up.
Well not to sound to trashy, but I live in a mobile home park and have 6 speed bumps between me and the entrance. I have the SE 1 7/8 LT's and their y-pipe. The single section dumps after the axle with a turn down. The y-pipe hangs really low because cut off the slip fit ends and used the 3in wide band clamps but somewhere I cut too much off and the system is sliding apart. I want to start over with a new system
Here it is as it sits. BTW this at the bus stop in the morning and not my place.
Well not to sound to trashy, but I live in a mobile home park and have 6 speed bumps between me and the entrance. I have the SE 1 7/8 LT's and their y-pipe. The single section dumps after the axle with a turn down. The y-pipe hangs really low because cut off the slip fit ends and used the 3in wide band clamps but somewhere I cut too much off and the system is sliding apart. I want to start over with a new system
Here it is as it sits. BTW this at the bus stop in the morning and not my place.
Yeah so this system will scrape wherever you scrape your y-pipe.
I definitely recommend tack welding the pieces pieces together because the geometry will be off once you push the whole exhaust system up. I moved mine up about 1-2” depending where it is on the car.
Realized I haven't posted in this thread. I'm running Kooks 1 7/8" headers into their true dual system with dual (not quad) tips, it does in fact fit with the MWC FAB9 and watts link. It's loud, but I don't mind although since I'll be moving to a city with emissions testing next year I'm working with Kooks to get an x-pipe with their green cats I can bolt in easily.
04-25-2016, 04:07 PM
Muffler flow check 
info need, please help. 
