presto_z

iTrader: (12)

there have been 125 views in under 2 hours so evidently people do read them

300bhp/ton

Please can you provide this proof of a 6bhp gain with the TB by-pass? I've looked and asked in the past and no one has ever been able to provide any "substantial" and "conclusive" evidence. Most people sight the BMR test from their website, in fact the dyno runs linked from their "by-pass" kit page.

If you actually read the info they supply they claim that lower IAT's provide more power. They claim the TB by-pass lowers IAT's. Yet the dyno run which produced the most HP is in fact the one with the highest IAT's!

So it really proves little, except that rolling road dyno's and the considtions cars are tested under are far too variable to show such a small and insignificant increase.

Stock MAF is fine. Plus what's happened to your Laminar air flow which the MAF sensors requires for accurate readings?

If the MAF really becomes an issue using HP Tuners or EFI Live to produce a SD Tune is the better approach IMO.

Laminar
and for dry shot it will prevent the screen from iceing up and blockind flow[/QUOTE]
I'll have to take your word on this as I have no real knowledge of dry nitrous setups beyond the very basics.

300bhp/ton

Arrr, but if everone read the sticky's there wouldn't be the same old posts time and time again. Which of course there always is.

I would guess in the last 4 weeks there must have been half a dozen plus threads on free mods alone. Although they often appear in the New LS1 owners forum.

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

there is alot of scepticism (sp? or is that even a word...ohwell) on wether or not it is used for debre or airflow, and i havnt found a strait answer myself, and for instance the slp maf has a removable screen so i dont believe it aids in airflow readings, if u remove the screen on the slp it adds 105 cfm (but again slp tends to stretch the truth)

and as for the hp tuners and efi live that deff. cost more then ummm free.... well im done arguing like 14 yearold girls, if you dont think there should be a sticky then thats your right.... i try to do research befor i provide advice of anykind....

and for the descreening of the maf there are risks as there are in almost any mod, do so at your own risk and take in consideration does
free + minor risk = worth it...i dunno but you decide

now im sure this is a rare gain but even 2 hp is worth spending 3 bucks

here is a link

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/T.../tbbypass.html

300bhp/ton

Yep that looks like the same ol only Dyno proof that gets shown every time, even though they made the highest rwhp numbers with the highest IAT's.

All it proves is rolling road dyno's are anything but accurate for showing such variation.

It also states about how the coolant exists to prevent TB freezing. This IMO is totally false and is for want of better words "an old wifes tail".

Logic, physics and common sense all suggest the TB coolant does not exist to prevent freezing. (I'll post up more info if you want).

Therefore logically the coolant exists for something else. I propose it is for cruise mpg and emissions purposes. Physics would tend to back up this claim as would other examples from the automotive industry.

300bhp/ton

Try this link, you'll find the text and graph are pretty identical

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/tb-dyno.htm

And this is the page for their TB by-pass kit: http://www.bmrfabrication.com/misc.HTM

LS144

iTrader: (7)

The best free mod hands down is the DRIVER MOD! Go out and practice launches over and over...

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

bottom line.. it is still a mod that thousands of people have performed and will continue to perform and i will do on every lsx vehicle i own.... the colder the air the more dense it is which equals more hp.... im sure over half of the "active" members on here have done and there are multiple threads asking how it is done and what is needed, this would hopefully eliminate many of those threads..... any other questions???

good eye on those dyno results i got some humor out of it....

Ripper415

iTrader: (6)

back to the hatch mod for a sec....my car has problems with opening the trunk and I'd like to try that out. can anyone give any additional info on how to do it or links to sites with info on it?

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

[QUOTE=presto_z]there should be a sticky somewhere (not sure where for all free mods) there is more then one cat. that free or almost free mods would fall into so if there was to be a sticky where should it be


list of some free and almost free mods

port stock throttle body
throttlebody coolant bypass
descreen maf
free ram air mod
wire mod
paint calipers
interior painting
fixing yellowed headlights
whistler mod
clear side markers
hatch fix
window etching
mirror etching
polishing anything
fernco mod
!CAGS mod

berger panel and ceta bumper???should these be included???
should egr mod be included since blockoffs are needed???

and each mod should be linked to a page showing a description and how to
list any i missed, thats all i can think of off the top of my head[/QUOTE
How do you do the clear side marker mod??

presto_z

iTrader: (12)

ok here is a link for the hatch
http://installuniversity.com/install...sity/index.htm

here is one for the clear corners (maybe not the best way to do it but they are really hard to find)
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/clearsides.htm

hope these help

98hardtopZ

iTrader: (7)

are we talking about the same whistler mod? you bake them at 200 to soften the sealant and then paint the insides....not just cook them....

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

They are pretty tastey after they have been in there for around 20 minutes at 215°.

98hardtopZ

iTrader: (7)

i thought so too....but i left mine in the oven took long because i read that you just cook em to a light black so it tinted my plastic....did i do it right?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I did it when I did my orange halos. You literally need oven mits.

98hardtopZ

iTrader: (7)

i used a towel with them sitting in my lap....and it was still pretty warm

jblazy18

iTrader: (4)

if anybody cares... there ARE 5 free mods that are proven to free up 10 horse.. just pick up GM HIGH-TECH PERFORMANCE'S July issue volume 12 NO.6 and theres an article and dynotesting on a stock 99 TA...it dynod at 292.2 horse and 299.0 lb-ft and bumped up w/free mods too 302.3 horse and 306.6 lb-ft. here are the mods

the airlid base mod
radiator support - cutting away two squares in the center area thats underneath the air filter so motor can breathe better

airdam - more flow will be seen by removing a rectangular chunk out of the plastic

tb porting in the front and mild porting in the back

EGR mod - for those without an ls6 intake, cutting the egr tube that protrudes into the intake

the tb coolant bypass

silverTA2002

iTrader: (1)

Back to descreening the MAF.

DO NOT DO IT!!!!

Taking it out does NOT increase airflow. If you can't gain more than 1hp by removing your air filter, what do you thing moving a tiny screen will do???

What it DOES do is mess up your tuning. Bad idea.

00 Trans Ram

iTrader: (5)

You know, I had always heard this too. In fact, about 90% of the people said, "Don't do it, you'll probably get bad results." Then, there were 10% that said, "I did it and nothing bad happened." I concluded that 10-to-1 odds weren't good for me.

However, I just bought "Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s - Modifying and Tuning GenIII Engines for GM Cars and Pickups", which is a book recommeded by GM High Tech Performance and various other magazines. It seems to be a pretty good book, with complete teardowns and rebuilds, both stock and performance. However, on page 51, is a section that begins, "The simple modification that shou8ld be performed on every MAF sensor is the gentle removal of the inside screen. GM obviously saw the light on this after a few years, because the '02 Z06 Corvette doesn't have a screen in the MAF."

So, this book is telling me, not only that it's OK, but that it should definitely be done. It says the purpose of the screen is to straighten the airflow entering the engine to minimize false airlow readings. However, because the LS-series engines have a straight intake, it is unnecessary. It is retained so that the same unit may be used on truck applications, where the intake is curved. There is no mention of any errors or tuning required.

Now I'm really confused.

silverTA2002

iTrader: (1)

Interesting find on that read about the screen.

I figure this......

Many people have had the A/F ratio screwed up by removing the screen.

Many people have had nothing happen. (and that INCLUDES nothing in terms of power gains).

So, why remove it? No pluses, and a possibility of messing things up.

But, hey, we've got it easy. Cars like the new Mustang GT can have the tuning completely screwed up, just from swapping air filters.


Ask the question 100 times, and you'll get 100 answers (from the guys who've been around). DON'T mess with the MAF. Don't descreen, don't port, don't go aftermarket, just leave it stock until you're making 500rwhp. Then we'll talk again.