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relocated dynabatt to trunk, ISSUES....

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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 05:15 AM
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Default relocated dynabatt to trunk, ISSUES....

So I ditched the stock battery, and ran two 4 guage positve and a 4 guage negative to the trunk, about 12 feet in length to a genesis G16EP which is identical to a dynabatt. The car will start, but after driving it around for a bit and shutting it off it wont restart. The voltage is 12.6 with the low beams on and 12.2 with the high beams consistant.

Problem is, while a buddy and I were doing the swap. We managed to swap the positive and negative terminals on the battery long enough that SMOKE started to come out of the alternator.

We dont know if our issue lies there or if the rediculously long length of ground wire is insufficient. I think the battery is fine. My buddy thinks its the battery.

I ran a dynabatt in my 98 TA up front without issues.

We cant tell if the alternator isnt charging adequately now. We did disconnect a terminal after starting the car to see if it was the alternator after the terminal mismatch, and it kept on running.

Is the length of cable too much for the dynbatt? It only has 280 cca.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 07:13 AM
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I think you fried the alternator....otherwise, I really think you should use larger than 4 gauge wire to the back. Your car will run on battery power for a while with the alternator busted - it will just die and not start up again. Volts should be mid 13 to 14 to keep the battery charged.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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It's not charging enuff if it's only putting out 12.2 volts under load
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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yeah the alternator might be working, but not up to snuff... as stated voltage should be around 13-14 volts, 12 is a bit low
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 11:24 AM
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Did you remove the alternator yet? If not be very careful not to rip out the tiny red exciter wire that plugs into the top of it.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 11:18 PM
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we took off the alternator today and tested on test bench at a kragens, it checked out fine. The battery is also fine, this has to be a case of insufficient ground. We are using two 4 guage positive wires, one to the starter and the other to the fuse box. There was a 4 guage ground wire attached to the block and a smaller 8 guage wire attached to the frame that piggy backed that ground, we didnt reattach that ground wire and that may be where the problem is.

We are going to reattach that and run another 4 guage wire directly to the frame rails near the IRS, hopefully this solves the problem. There is no way Im gonna be able to accomodate 3 12 ft strands of 2 guage wire though my car, it certainly wont fit in the side trim.

Last edited by Importdestroyer; Jul 3, 2006 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 02:55 AM
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You can run it underneath your car?
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 03:13 AM
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but then again if your only battery source is a 220cca man i would upgrade that to about 600 at least
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tha joker
but then again if your only battery source is a 220cca man i would upgrade that to about 600 at least
I ran this battery without problems 5 yrs ago with my blown 98 TA.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=dynabatt

It has enough CCA. And we hooked up my buddies 800 CCA red top optima and it couldnt turn over the motor while it was hot. Its a ground issue.

"You can run it underneath your car?"

Maybe, its a ZO6 with even less ground clearance than an f body. I could try to rig it atop the balsa wood undercarriage somehow, I dont know. Im gonna try adding a ground near the battery, if that doesnt do it Im gonna ditch the 4 gauge and just zip tie it to the stock location like I did in my TA.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 09:47 PM
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get errrrr done! drycell working like a champ!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So it was indeed insufficient ground, i attached another ground to an existing ground post on the DS framerail near the IRS and it starts everytime.

The battery and bracked together weigh right about 14 lbs, and 24 ft or so of 4 gauge wire another 4-5 lbs. Looks pretty trick too. Should be a little closer to 50/50 now. Got 3040 on a scale with 6-7 gallons of fuel, with 20 lbs increments so it could be less.

For anyone doing this, youre going to need more than the stock ground going to the block, youll need to ground it to the chassis in the rear as well.

heres a pic, I have another in my gallery.

http://www.z06vette.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
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