I am guessing it is one of the position sensors like most everyone in this thread has said. A couple fo the guys with scanners/software were nice enough to offer to comeby today, so if that doesn't diagnose the problem I am going to get the crank sensor and see if that helps.

 

Have you checked your fuses?....... Never know.

You say you deleted the "Air" did you cut or remove a connector the harness, might have blown a control fuse.

You can try a quick check to see if you are getting power to the "Crank Pos Sen". Should have 12 volts @ pin "C" of the connector with the key-on. I would at least check these before you spend the money on a new sensor. Most places wont take back elect. items.
This might help and point you in the correct direction.

 

618Hawk: I ahve checked some of the fuses replaced them with others where applicable but that didn't help.
As for the AIR mod I just left the connectors they are still there just not hooked up to anything.
I like the idea about the Crank sensor though, I gues I need to go out and get a volt meter.

 

Here is a schematic. Also includes the Cam Pos Sen.
Did you disconnect anything down there when you replaced your motor mounts. grounds or any other connectors?

 

Thanks for the diagram.

Well FstBlcz28 just helped out and scanned my car with EFILive and again the only code it threw was the 405 EGR one. So I went ahead and ordered one off ebay hopefully that will be it, if not I am really gonna get pissed.

Thanks for all of your help up to now, I will keep you all posted on progress.

 

Not to interupt, but I bet you inadvertantly put the car into theft mode. Does the dash security light go out after about 10 secs, or does it stay on, or flash continusely? If security light stays on then you need to do 30 min. relearn.

 

continuosly? <sp?>

 

I ran into a problem simular like this on a Camaro, but turned out to be a blown fuse inside the car in the driver side fusebox, For some reason was thinking it was like Gauges or something to that extent. Ended up blowing a internal fuse some how by putting in new altenator

Anyways keep us up to date would be interested in knowing
Ron

 

Take a test light and touch every fuse in the car on the top two contact points... a blown fuse is a blown fuse. What you can do to avoid spending money on a CKP Sensor is measure resistance through it. If it ohms out then check power to the sensor with the key on. I want to think you knocked the **** out of it by accident and something came loose. Think about it... If you can read codes your ecm is still there. You'd have to have both coil banks unplugged at the same time or you've got a main circuit fuse blown. You may have overheated the ignition relay too. Take a mechanics stethoscope and listen for the relays to click when they get power... Just some steps to take. I've got money on your CKP though. Especially since it was directly in the area of modification with the headers. Good luck.

 

Okay the security light goes off after a few seconds with the key in the on position.

As for fuses I have been trying to check as many as I can and so far nothing. And the car wouldn't start because of a blown gauges fuse? Wow.

 

Checked all the fuses all worked. The starter fuse only turned on once I tried to start the car.
Also tried starting the car with the crank sensor unplugged, dont recommend doing this. It made a god awful noise and still didnt start, obviously. So now I am not completely sure that its the crank sensor.

 

By chance did you pull your coil packs off while installing the headers. And mixed them up lh & rh?


So what kind of noise did you have with the cps disconnected, strange.

 

What's the status? Is it true that only the CKP(from what that theory of op said) will make it not run at all?

 

Alright guys, time for some new ideas just installed the new Crank Position Sensor and the car still won't start. Still the same thing, it turns over but will not start. No spark!!!

Please Help I am starting to get really frustrated

Thanks for all the useful feedback thus far and keep it coming.

 

did you reconnect te ground wires to the heads?

(front of passenger head, back of driver head)

 

To the heads? I don't think I disconnected any wires at all from the heads. Please clarify.

The only wire that I plugged/unplugged from the heads was the one right in front of the #1 spark plug on the drivers side (and this one is plugged back in).

 

That is your coolant temp sensor...

I am talking about on the face of your heads... the front and back.


There should be a wire with a "o-ring" thing on the end bolted to the front of the passenger head. There should be another one on the back of the driver head (this one is very hard to get to if you have a f-body)

Let me see if I can find a picture...

Like i said earlier if your plugs are gounded and the ignition wire is hooked into them while you are trying to start the motor... and you can't see any spark....

THEN IT IS YOUR IGNITION SYSTEM YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH.

 

check for #1 and #7

 

FIGURE Ignition Modules/Coils, Bank 1(c)





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 542249
2000 Chevrolet Camaro

 

That didnt work, I was trying to paste Ignition control schematic from GM.