A.I.R Delete Finished
(sorry I dont have pics I forgot the camera)
1. The flap under the driver side fender is a lifesaver!! Its 2x10mm bolts and the A.I.R pump is right above the opening.
2. There are 9x10mm bolts altogether (2 for the flap, 4 for the lines to the exhaust manifolds, 3 to unbolt the AIR pump.)
3. There is a unit at the back of the intake (DS). The lines to the exhaust manifolds connect to this. There is also a small plug ontop of this unit. I used a screw to close this plug (You'll see it if you dive in there).
4. THIS IS IMPORTANT. The block off plates are definitley NOT thick enough to just bolt down and go!!!! I had to use 2 washers on each bolt to get the plate to seat on the exhaust manifolds. I also used some gasket maker, I'm not sure if you could use the old gaskets or not. A quick way to solve thickness problems is to match the amount to washers (thickness) to the original lines taken from the manifolds.
CONCLUSION:
It definitley cleaned up the engine bay! I would say this is the only thing it does. I thought that the pump was making a high pitch whistle only to find out its back! So now its back to the drawing board to figure out where the air leak is.
Hopefully these pointers will save you some time. A search will help too but I wanted to add my contribution.
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I removed my A.I.R. **** about a month and a half ago and just recently (three days ago) removed the fuses. It doesn't hurt anything if you leave them in as long as it is tuned out of the computer
ohh yea, hp tuners alrady tuned it out


I have a big sheet of like 16 guage stainless behind my house that I boosted from my old job. I've made all kinda block off plates out of it.

I have a big sheet of like 16 guage stainless behind my house that I boosted from my old job. I've made all kinda block off plates out of it.
i actually did not order the block off plates yet.. i am gettin LTs that have no emissions on them. So i do not want to waste my money


hahahaha
