Alt. Overdrive pulley, or new Optima battery?
#1
Alt. Overdrive pulley, or new Optima battery?
I have had the March u/d pulley on since April now, I have noticed that recently my battery gauge has been staying below 13. It looks like it is reading around 9-10 after I drive for a while. When I start the car up after it has set for a while, it reads around 14-15, then drops after a bit. I have a sub and amp, electric cutout, walbro 255 fuel pump, wideband a/f setup, and 2 gauges. My questions are:
Should I get the alternator overdrive pulley, thus pretty much cancel out the underdrive crank pulley purpose?
Get a stronger battery, like the optima, and see how that goes?
Or just leave it?
Thanks
Ben
Should I get the alternator overdrive pulley, thus pretty much cancel out the underdrive crank pulley purpose?
Get a stronger battery, like the optima, and see how that goes?
Or just leave it?
Thanks
Ben
#2
Ben,
Before I'd go with the larger alternator pulley, I'd go with an Optima Battery. I'm running a 25% underdriven Powerbond on my car (with an Optima redtop) without any charging issues at all (stock alternator pulley).
Alternatively, you may want to have a local AutoZone or the like test your alternator -this could be a sign that your alternator is on it's way out.
Good luck!
-Joey
Before I'd go with the larger alternator pulley, I'd go with an Optima Battery. I'm running a 25% underdriven Powerbond on my car (with an Optima redtop) without any charging issues at all (stock alternator pulley).
Alternatively, you may want to have a local AutoZone or the like test your alternator -this could be a sign that your alternator is on it's way out.
Good luck!
-Joey
#3
I'm having similar issues. With the motor off, the windows BARELY roll down and up. I've charged the battery too, same issues. My gauges reset everytime I start the car. But when I start the car, the windows go super fast. So maybe Optima batteries are crap after all.
#4
Get the alternator tested. Is it stock? Hell I have an ASP underdrive pulley and an aftermarket alternator with a "smaller" pulley and don't have charging issues with all accessories running. Alternator starts charging at 650 rpms (higher with the underdrive) though. I also bumped up my idle a bit.
#5
Originally Posted by Dal1as
Get the alternator tested. Is it stock? Hell I have an ASP underdrive pulley and an aftermarket alternator with a "smaller" pulley and don't have charging issues with all accessories running. Alternator starts charging at 650 rpms (higher with the underdrive) though. I also bumped up my idle a bit.
#6
Originally Posted by Car_Guy
"Smaller" pulley would make the alternator spin faster thus producing more amps. Maybe that's what he needs to do.
Only problem with that is most aftermarket alternators need to see an 800 rpm idle and with and underdive crank you would need to set your idle around 900 like I did. Also the alternator would need to be setup for an underdrive pulley. It would fry a stock alternator in his case.
I went through all of this for awhile until finding the right amplifier.
I would get the alternator checked. Sounds like the voltage regulatoris going. Then check with Nate and www.excessiveamperage.com and ask him to make you a 200 amp alternator with the lower rpm turn on. That's the one I use now and it works great. It's around $275 I believe.
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#8
Same exact problem here and just replaced my failing battery with a red Optima. Still have the exact same problem. Voltage gauge starts out high and slowly drops below 10 on the gauge after driving a little while. Getting the alternator checked next and might pop for one of those high output jewels soon.
#11
Originally Posted by WILWAXU
What's your idle at? A couple hundred more in rpm idle will have the altenator charging all the time.
Yep, I bumped my idle up but then again I have an aftermarket alternator with a much smaller pulley.