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A problem in slp`s C.A.P
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Launching!
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 216
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From: Philly, PA
A problem in slp`s C.A.P I just get my slp cold air package last weekend...
when just started install it i got a problem.. my car has a B&M trans. super cooler and i can not install the cold air induction(21033) b.cause there is no place for it..it should fit in the cooler place..(the cooler is installed in front of the a/c condensor)
who can i solve it???
and it is almost impossible to put them both in the a/c condensor the cooler is big to be there..
i must put the cooler in another place..
is there is some one had the same problem..or know how can do it!!
when just started install it i got a problem.. my car has a B&M trans. super cooler and i can not install the cold air induction(21033) b.cause there is no place for it..it should fit in the cooler place..(the cooler is installed in front of the a/c condensor)
who can i solve it???
and it is almost impossible to put them both in the a/c condensor the cooler is big to be there..
i must put the cooler in another place..
is there is some one had the same problem..or know how can do it!!
Last edited by SUPER_CHEVY; Aug 31, 2006 at 05:33 PM.
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From: Tree-Hugging, Bug eating CALI'
If you are set on using that package, I would consider removing the plastic baffles, in front of the condensor and consider removing and replacing the washer bottle with another one. I had done both, and relocated the bottle below the left headlight.
The reason I did this was to remove obstructions from the front of the condensor/radiator. I have two 24K B&M coolers, and after getting tranny and coolant guages, and saw that I was getting coolant temps' up to 230+*and tranny temps' near 200*, in stop-and-go traffic, in my 45 minute commute, with the A/C on. After removing the baffles, relocating and replacing the washer bottle, and hanging both coolers off the back of the bumper bar, my coolant temps wouldn' t go above 215* under the same conditions, and my tranny temps' rarely get above 180*, even after several passes at the track. On the street, it will stay closer to 160-175*.
Some may say the tranny temps' are a little too low, but, I' d rather trade that off, and keep my coolant temps' under control. I change my tranny fluid regularly, and have not found condensation, or anything like that so far.
Good luck.
The reason I did this was to remove obstructions from the front of the condensor/radiator. I have two 24K B&M coolers, and after getting tranny and coolant guages, and saw that I was getting coolant temps' up to 230+*and tranny temps' near 200*, in stop-and-go traffic, in my 45 minute commute, with the A/C on. After removing the baffles, relocating and replacing the washer bottle, and hanging both coolers off the back of the bumper bar, my coolant temps wouldn' t go above 215* under the same conditions, and my tranny temps' rarely get above 180*, even after several passes at the track. On the street, it will stay closer to 160-175*.
Some may say the tranny temps' are a little too low, but, I' d rather trade that off, and keep my coolant temps' under control. I change my tranny fluid regularly, and have not found condensation, or anything like that so far.
Good luck.
I butchered my SLP CAI for this same problem, but
if you want to leave it intact then relocate the
trans cooler ("Dope" style, or your own, get it off the
main stack). Personally I had poor results off the SLP
CAI as far as IAT readings, they went up big time
relative to using the SS hood alone. You might want
to glue some thin insulation board to the interior to
cut the heating of the air by that stainless heat
sponge. I reworked mine to draw from above the
divider panel (being as SLP required me to have
already hacked that open) and only have about a
2" stub of the original piece left but it makes a swell
base to pop-rivet alternative plastic ducting to.
No pics, sorry....
if you want to leave it intact then relocate the
trans cooler ("Dope" style, or your own, get it off the
main stack). Personally I had poor results off the SLP
CAI as far as IAT readings, they went up big time
relative to using the SS hood alone. You might want
to glue some thin insulation board to the interior to
cut the heating of the air by that stainless heat
sponge. I reworked mine to draw from above the
divider panel (being as SLP required me to have
already hacked that open) and only have about a
2" stub of the original piece left but it makes a swell
base to pop-rivet alternative plastic ducting to.
No pics, sorry....
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