Jonas, I run the German Castrol 0w30 (made in Germany) motor oil with NO problems in my LS1. In fact, I've been running it for the last couple of years as well as in my old LT1. I was far more impressed by that oil than the previous M1 5w30 I used to use. The M1 would thin out too much and the oil analysis tests I've seen shows the LT1 & LS1 love the GC stuff (again, the kind that says made in Germany on the back of the bottle). I'm not saying that stuff is the end all, but as of now I wouldn't use anything else. Although if you do want to run M1, try their 0w40. That stuff is also excellent and has been tested to be more efficient than the M1 5w30 or 10w30 (which are both more like a 20w oil). Check out all the great info over at www.bobistheoilguy.com. If you ever have a lot of free time one day to be online (which I know you do ), it's worth a look...

Mike

 

mike the GC made my car tick like no other.. and yes it was the one made in germany.. i put the M1 back in and it was a lot quieter.. so i have no idea what went wrong.. now tell me why i should M1 0W40

 

That is really weird....mine was the exact opposite. Loud as as hell with M1, alot quieter with GC.

Well, good to hear you found what you were looking for atleast.

 

yea i have no idea. patman swore by it, he praises it on bobistheoilguy website... so i have no idea..

 

Don't know what to tell you bro...My car's valvetrain is very quiet with the GC 0w30...But like I said earlier, the GC has tested out a lot better than the M1 5w30 through various samples taken from LT1's & LS1's (it's not like I'm making this stuff up).

The problem with the M1 5w30 is that it thins out way too much...Becomes more like a 5w20 (same thing with the M1 10w30). The M1 0w40 is a much better choice for the LS1. Again, go read about it or the GC on the website I provided you...

 

ok mike like i am making this **** up you did not hear my car with the GC in.. it was fvcking terrible.. i know what GC is i saw the reports i have spent days reading b4 i did it.. so i tried it, and it FVCKING sucked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why when i put the M1 5W30 back in, the car is sooooooooooooooo quiet now then?????????????? Explain that to me?

Also GM calls for 5W30, why change it? that is what is called for the motor so i am staying thta way.

Sorry if i am pissed but i am tired of people telling me it was not my oil when in fact it was

/end rant

 

I believe it is the lifters but not a bad thing all ls1 and gm 5.3 and 4.6 engines I have heard with or without headers have had a natrual tick and I was told that it was the hydrolic lifters at low rpms are not primed enough and cause a slight tick in the valve train if your tick goes away at higher rpms then there you go if not and it is still there id say exhaust.

 

How long had it been since you changed your oil? Fresh M1 will be better than worn GC and vice versa.

I've had good luck with M1, but much better results for longer with RP, all 10-30.

The 5-30 GM recommends is for the WHOLE COUNTRY, where the manual is distributed. If you live in the north, thin the oil out some. If you live in the south, thicken it up some. You'll also want to rethink if you do engine/valvetrain work. Experimenting with a weight change or two one way or the other is no big deal.

keeping the oil changed and FULL is more important than what oil you use. Now, all else being equal, synthetic is MUCH better than dino oil. Gear, oil, grease - seen the results. FAR better.

When I worked at a Chevy dealer, we had two big block Suburbans in the shop with about 125k miles each, both oils changed regularly, at similar intervals. One with M1 and one with regular. Guess which one showed NO bearing wear when torn down??

I've also seen rear diff temp tests run while towing (under load) and the synthetic gear lube kept fluid temps almost 20 degrees cooler.

Change often and you'll be good. 3-5 with dino, 6-10 with synthetic, just keep an eye on the level.

Some engines have SLIGHTLY different measurements from the factory so some may respond better/differently to different oils based on actual ring and piston condition, usage, etc.

YMMV

Also know that, as mentioned, headers will transmit more tick through the walls than manifolds. Manifolds tend to be quieter, not leak, and flow worse --- all by design from GM. Thinner walls allow you to hear valvetrain noise and exhaust gases banging around more easily. They also crack more easily than manifolds. Ask me how I know...

 

when you do headers you will get more valve train noise! sounds fine to me! People say it sounds like a sowing machine.

 

holy old thread batman....

yeah that nosie went away when i put the M1 back in the car..


now i have a sewing maching sound b/c of my cam