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Freakin out over headers

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Old 09-28-2006, 08:31 PM
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Default Freakin out over headers

Ok so there not even here yet and im freaking out, of course they were supposed to come last week but were backordered so they come this week were its goin to rain friday and sunday so i have to get it all down outside on saturday.

Ok i was just wondering how everyone says the y pipe to cat bolts always snap off is it possible to just leave them and pull the y and stock manifolds out together?

Also do i really need to use a torque wrench to tighten the new bolts down? or can i just do it tight but not to tight by hand... i have to go out and buy a jack and stands some random wrenches and gaskets and all that so i dont have much more money to spend untill i get paid

this is my daily driver and hopefully i get done this weekend, i may end up removing the air if i get stuck cause i dont have much time to spare. It wouldnt be good to run with my air tube part of the headers wide open till i get the block off plates right? can i just cut up some sheet metal and use some silicon to block it off till i get the real thing? and is it true that i may need to make a.i.r restrictor plates to prevent damage to the pumps?

sorry im askin so many questions but i have one day to do this and im trying to avoid as many hold ups as possible cause i know ill have a hard enough time just installing the headers

o and what kind of band clamps do i need 3 inch or bigger? i have the pacesetter headers with 3 inch catted y pipe
Old 09-28-2006, 09:05 PM
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Dont run the headers with nothing connected to the air pipe fittings. Use block off plates or put the air pipes back on. Before LS1 edit came out I had restrictor plates but I don;t think it'd hurt the pump to run with out em for a lil while. No need for a torque wrench, just get em good and tight. You'll "feel" when to stop.
Old 09-28-2006, 09:12 PM
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If you ordered all that stuff from TSP is will come with all the clamps you need. Yes you need to unbolt the y from the mani's. If you can the night before you are gonna do the swap spray all the bolts with some rust penatrating oil. I have done 4 sets of pacesetter headers and 2 of them I used tsp's catted Y no major issues
Old 09-29-2006, 06:52 PM
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ok i worked on it for a few hours and im feeling better as things are unfolding...

i removed my air pipes, rear o2 sensors and y pipe i took off 1 header bolt so far and unfortunately i have to call it quits at 730 cause i have no garage and its dark grrr

ok for some reason i cant get the front o2s off the rears just broke loose then i took it off by hand but the fronts i cant even get a ful turn with the wrench am i doing something wrong, are these reverse threaded for some dumb reason?

and also how the hell do you get the spark plug wires off it took me a good 45 minutes to get 2 off and they just came loose after random tugging so im not sure if theres a method or just pull on them till they come off
Old 09-29-2006, 06:55 PM
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Can't you disconnect the O2's and then pull them out once you get the manifolds out?
Old 09-29-2006, 07:40 PM
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One thing you are going to need is something to spray on the rusted bolts like PB blaster. Everything will come off easier. This was in the sticky for taking out your pumps for you AIR https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/500407-egr-air-o2-sensors-motor-tranny-mount-faq.html
Good Luck
Old 09-29-2006, 10:16 PM
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I left the fronts in, and just disconnected the wires, at the connector, plug wires I had to wiggle mine back and forth while pulling on them, grab by the boot, and not the wire, or you'll rip the wire out, when you put them back, use dielectric grease so they'll come off easier next time
As for a torque wrench, I'd use one myself, steel bolt into aluminum head, over torque the bolt, and the bolt doesn't snap the threads strip, and then you'll need a helicoil kit, try your local parts store they may have a tool rental program, that'll let you get the torque wrench, for a refundable deposit
If you don't have blockoff plates you can use a soda/beer can, and the end of the AIR pipe, cut off the tube, and use the flange to sandwich the aluminum can (that you've cut to size/shape) between the header fitting and the AIR fitting (kinda redneck, but it'll do in a pinch)
Old 09-29-2006, 10:44 PM
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yea i pb blastered the hell out of everything and i had releaized i had to take off the cats from the headers so yea ill just leave the o2s on there for now thanks guys on be on tomrrow with more questions im sure lol




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