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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 07:09 AM
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Default No Heat - Please Help

I need some help. I live in Michigan so I need to get this issue fixed before I freeze my nads off.

I had my water pump replaced this Summer so I am not sure if this has anything to do with it but I thought I should mention it. I also had the coolant changed and thermostat replaced when the water pump was replaced. It was replaced by a mechanic at a service station because that's where the pump just totally puked. Anyways, it is cold here now so I just tried the heat and it is only blowing cold air. I checked the coolant level which is full of Dexcool. I checked all of the heater hoses and the hoses to and from the heater core. They are all hot.

The A/C works great. The blower motor appears to be ok because I can feel it blowing. I don't think the heater core is bad because I don't smell any coolant and never saw any inside the car anywhere.

Any ideas??? THANKS.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 07:13 AM
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Shouldn't be FULL of dexcool. You need a 50/50 mix.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 07:16 AM
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Actually I meant I could see Dexcool. I am assuming it is 50/50. It was put in by the mechanic when he replaced the water pump.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 07:24 AM
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Check your heater core, clogged on my friend and he lost all heat, defroster, etc. Cleaned it out and fixed everything. Good luck.

-J
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 09:40 AM
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I bet it's the tiny vacuum line running off the back of the intake. Will it switch from vent to defrost? Feel and see if it redirects the air.

There's a trap door inside the a/c system that redirects the airflow from the evap coil (a/c) to the heater core when you turn the heat on.

If the heater core is hot, and the vent is blowing, it's not blowing across the heater core.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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I'm not sure how prone these engines are to air locks, but I've had this issue on other cars. An air lock will prevent proper coolant circulation, possible thru the heater matrix. This means no hot air. Sludge in the heater matrix could cuase it also, but none of the LS1's are really that old so I would be surprised by this, unless of course the motor hadn't been looked after.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 12:37 PM
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I will switch the heat from vent to defrost and let you know if the air is redirected. I will also check out that vacuum line TheBlurLS1 mentioned.

As far as any sludge buildup in the heater matrix I am not sure. I guess I will have to take a closer look at that possibility. (as well as a clogged heater core)

I have owned the car for a little over a year and have not flushed the cooling system I do take good care of her though. Please don't think she's abused. I only use the best parts and fluids in my Z. And all of the regular maintenance is normally taken care of.
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Old Sep 26, 2006 | 12:44 PM
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BTW - THANKS for the replies
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 06:46 AM
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Well I flushed out my cooling system last night, replaced the thermostat, and filled the radiator with Dexcool. And oh yes, I also removed a plastic bag that was covering the front of my tranny cooler and part of the radiator. So now I am getting some heat which is nice, BUT my car now runs very hot and is on the verge of overheating during normal driving in 50 degreee weather. So I checked te radiator hoses and the top one is a little hot, BUT the bottom one is pretty cold even when the temp gauge shows 210 degrees. And there is a nice little squeal coming from the waterpump area. All of the belts eem tight so I am wondering if my 3 month old waterpump is taking a crap. Any ideas? THANKS.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 07:04 AM
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Did you make sure you flushed all the air pockets off of the coolant lines?
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 07:07 AM
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Sorry to sound like a dumbass, but how do you get get the air pockets out of the coolant lines? THANKS
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ARCTICWHITE98Z28
Sorry to sound like a dumbass, but how do you get get the air pockets out of the coolant lines? THANKS
You take the radiator cap off, and stand beside the car trickling water in for 45 minutes while it's running. You won't believe how much more it takes lol. Squeezing the top radiator hose seems to help too.

Will it switch from vent to defrost? Did you use 50/50 mix or just straight dexcool?
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 08:10 AM
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TheBlurLS1- the heat does switch from vent to defrost and I did use 50/50 dexcool & water. I will work on adding more water to the system while it's running and the cap is off and let you know if that helped. THANKS
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 08:42 AM
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OK I just checked out my car again. It is running very hot. It got up to 210 degrees after idling in the parking lot for 5 minutes and it's only 50 degrees outside. I was unable to add anymore water to the radiator because it was full and as soon as it started getting hot it started bubbling out of the top of the radiator. Anyway I checked the top and bottom radiator hoses at 210 degrees and they were BOTH cold. So am I right to assume my radiator is either plugged up or junk? Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ARCTICWHITE98Z28
OK I just checked out my car again. It is running very hot. It got up to 210 degrees after idling in the parking lot for 5 minutes and it's only 50 degrees outside. I was unable to add anymore water to the radiator because it was full and as soon as it started getting hot it started bubbling out of the top of the radiator. Anyway I checked the top and bottom radiator hoses at 210 degrees and they were BOTH cold. So am I right to assume my radiator is either plugged up or junk? Any ideas on what I should do? Thanks.
I'd be tempted to take your car to a mechanic and get it checked over.

If you have no heat and the car is running hot/over heating yet the header tank has water in it. Then it could be several things:

-Faulty thermostat
-Faulty waterpump
-Air lock
-Cylinder head gasket
-something I haven't thought of....

Hopefully it isn't going to be a serious problem.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 01:25 PM
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I just visited my local mechanic who tried telling me that the normal coolant temp range for my car is up to 230 degrees. I am currently getting up to 225 degrees in 50 degree weather. That is if I let the car idle for a few minutes. On the highway it goes down to about 180 degrees. Is 225 too hot??? From my searches on LS1tech I would say yes. THANKS
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ARCTICWHITE98Z28
I just visited my local mechanic who tried telling me that the normal coolant temp range for my car is up to 230 degrees. I am currently getting up to 225 degrees in 50 degree weather. That is if I let the car idle for a few minutes. On the highway it goes down to about 180 degrees. Is 225 too hot??? From my searches on LS1tech I would say yes. THANKS
stock settings...that is not far from normal actually..these engines will go pretty warm.....that is unless you have a lower thermostat and/or fan settings lower.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 05:17 PM
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I havent seen a stock car and stock thermostat LS1 run over 200, or 210 at max.
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Old Sep 27, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by FBodyPerformer
I havent seen a stock car and stock thermostat LS1 run over 200, or 210 at max.
Been on Power Tour 4 times and on all of those there were LS1 overheats..Mine ran well over 210 before I started modding it in traffic...cooler on hwy..then bang..up again on city streets. I bet there are lotsa guys on here that know about how high an LS1 can get.
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